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  1.  
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    As a textile material it’s said that the origins of leather are as old as civilization itself? A lot of writers credit its origins to different points in history, but perhaps the most impressive is actually found in the Bible. The Bible credits the origins of leather all the way back to Adam and Eve. After they sinned and were removed from the Garden of Eden it’s said that God made them garments from skin and clothed them. What type of skin? It doesn’t say, but I’m guessing it might have been a lamb or something similar. So regardless of what point in history you go back to, leather has been around a long time and will probably be around until the end of civilization itself. But what has made this material so appealing throughout the ages? Perhaps this blog is not intended to completely answer that question, but feel free to add to it with your comments below…
    So for now, let's talk about the pros and cons of crafting with leather. I think the best way to tackle this topic, is to simply look at the qualities of the material and it applications. In this blog I’m only going to be focusing on vegetable tanned leather, since this is what was used historically. Chrome tanned leather didn’t come along until the 1800’s.
    The Pros 
    • It’s an eco-friendly and natural resource – No harmful chemicals are used in the tanning process.
    • It has a very pleasant fragrance - Natural rich earthly scent that doesn't overwhelm. 

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    • It is ideal for use in art or craft –
      1. Images can be carved and tooled into the surface of the leather to transform this material into literal works of art
      2. It can be wetted and molded into any shape or form you want. Magnificent statues and pieces of art have been molded with leather throughout the centuries, such as in the image to the right.
      3. It can be stained or dyed to any color you want
    • It’s extremely durable and can last a lifetime (Special emphasis on Vegetable tanned leather)
    • It’s not that expensive… - You might be surprised to here me say that, but considering what leather is and how much you can buy for the price, it really isn’t that expensive. Since leather is a natural resource, it’s prices will fluctuate from time to time. But regardless, I still think it’s a very affordable craft material that is unmatched by any other.
    • It’s compatible – Leather is also very compatible with other textile materials, wood, and more.

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    • Leather takes on beautiful properties as it ages and antiques - As leather is exposed to natural elements, such as sunlight, moisture, and oils from our hands, over time the leather will take on a beautiful natural patina tan that only adds to it beauty and look. 

    Cons –
    • Leather requires a little upkeep – Compared to other textiles leather actually requires much less upkeep to maintain, but in order to keep it clean it’s best to protect your leather goods with leather care products from time to time.
    • Best not to get it wet! – Leather can handle some moisture but being a natural material it’s best not to leave it in the rain if you really want it to last.               
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    • Shopping for leather – One of the biggest complaints people have when buying vegetable tanned leather is that it has some scaring on the leathers top surface. But this is unavoidable since the leather is a natural material. So, if the animal is raised on the free-range, then it’s going to have some scaring from bug bites, barbed wire fences, branding marks, or other animal bites. In some ways I think these marks lend character and beauty to the properties of the leather, but if you are shopping for perfection, then there are more expensive hides that can be purchased. Top quality hides are usually made from animals that are raised in protective environments where their exposure to harmful conditions are removed. These hides are of course very beautiful, but also very costly. Sometimes it’s more affordable to buy 2 hides of a cheaper leather with scars than it is to buy 1 piece of hi-quality leather. I guess it just depends on what you are making and what the job demands.

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    • It’s a less known craft niche – Some may see this as a pro or a con, but I think the leathercraft industry doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Considering everything that can be done with leather and rich history of the craft I hope to see it become one of the most popular crafts the world has to offer.
    So as far as I can tell the pros, far outweigh the cons... What do you think?  
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    Hello all, I have started making small leather projects after 40 yr hiatus. I am currently making items such as designer keychains, small notebooks, book covers such as bible covers, any book cover specially made, belts etc. You get the picture. I am a 68 yr old disabled vet looking to sell these items at a modest price, just enough to cover the price of materials. Any good ideas on how I could go about this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and God Bless

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    I buy and sell leather tools.

    follow me at facebook: jmkjmk2 leather tools

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    I am trying to find a supplier for the metal clips that are used in the police citation books. I am specifically looking for the horizontal metal clips that hold the citation books and even the metal backing if I can get that too.

    For some reason the people that have this information don't want to share it.

     

    Thank You Gentlemen

  2. In Path of Exile, I was reading about ppl farming equip or sword with lvl 10 and were able to level with all that items to level 70 and much further. How does the item level design work? How does it all work? 

    poe-image-11.png

    1. Higher level doesn't necessarily mean better. There are items you can get early and scale late into the game (like Tabula, which gives no stats but give you a 6-link for a HUGE damage boost). Max links is a function of max sockets; you can get six-socket items at ilvl 60 50. You can also choose poe buy items.

    2. You never need to "reforge" anything, although there are some uniques you can upgrade via a prophecy (or more likely just buy the upgrade from another player).

    3. Generally, it's best to level by scaling life and elemental resists as your main defenses and not worry about base stats until you get to endgame. Higher item levels mean higher stat values can roll, so you want to be on the lookout for upgrades as you go.

    4. If you're levelling an attack-based build, you want to use the best unique weapon of the appropriate weapon type for your build that you can currently equip. They're usually cheap at this point in a league. If you're levelling a spell build, Tabula is pretty great as are items that give your skill gems more levels (links and gem levels give you most of your damage scaling for spells).

    5. Find yellow items of the right bases and ID them. Hope for good stats you need. Try find one's with links already or 4 sockets so you don't have to burn jewellers/fusings on them too. Plenty drops so just keep checking them. You can vendor armourer scraps for scrolls if you keep running low.

    I believe that other experienced players will be better than my tips, but these are the reasons for my success, and I sincerely hope it will help you too. Finally, don't forget that U4gm.com Sale Cheap POE Currency, POE Orbs, POE Items.

  3. PRELUDE

    Most members of this forum know me as a frequent poster on the Leather Sewing Machines Forum on Leatherworker.net. Some may assume that I know more about specific machines than I actually do. However, in many cases, I have had or currently have plenty of hands on experience with a particular machine, or type of machine. As a result of my own experiences with various types of sewing machines I am often able to give advice or provide assistance to other members who ask for help with this or that machine, or want to know about its capabilities or limitations.

    I have owned or worked on industrial sewing machines ever since 1985. But, my hands on experience goes much further back than that. It all began when as a boy I hung out at my Father's tailor shop. I watched him sew clothes both by hand and with his Singer sewing machine. While I don't know for sure, I believe that he used either a Singer 31-15 or a Singer 96k40. I only remember that it had a clutch motor and looked much like the Singer 31-15 that is sitting in my leather shop.

    I never touched that machine until I was in my early teens. One day my Dad sat me down in front of the machine and explained what the floor pedal and knee lever did, as well as how to feather the clutch, control the material, hold back the starting threads and wind a bobbin. He also taught me how to not sew my fingers or thumbs! This was in the early 1960s and it was my first experience with any sewing machine. Of course, I had other plans and wanted no part of that occupation. I never sewed on that machine after about 1964.

    Fast forward 20 years to 1984 when I got into leathercrafting as a hobby. Like most newbies to the craft, I began by lacing and hand sewing my projects. It didn't take too long before that got old. The final straw was when I decided to construct a leather vest from a pattern pack I bought from a Tandy Leather store. I knew from the first attempt at penetrating the chrome tanned leather than I was going to need to do this on a machine. This was the moment when I began my unexpected adventure that became a quest, not for a mystical Ring, but for a sewing machine capable of sewing real leather.

    THE JOURNEY BEGINS

    I still remember asking the manager of the local Tandy Leather store for his recommendation for a sewing machine that could sew the vest I was making from Tandy's pattern pack and leather. His first thought was to try out a machine that another customer was willing to sell and would bring to the store. That machine was there the next day. It was a Singer 503A Slant O Matic Rocketeer which had a slant needle system. I brought in a small piece of the leather I bought for the vest and placed two edges together under the presser foot, lowered the foot, held back the threads and pushed slowly on the controller pedal. The needle came down at its designated forward slant angle, met the top grain of the leather and broke into zillions of pieces that Rocketeered into the store. I passed on that machine.

    YOU REALLY NEED AN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE

    Those were the Tandy manager's exact words after the disaster with the Rocketeer. I asked if he knew where I could find those. He had no idea, so I let my fingers do the walking in the phone book. Sure enough, there were industrial sewing machine dealers all over the place within my city limits. I picked the closest dealer and called them, asking if they had a machine that could sew leather vests. The owner assured me that he had exactly the machine I needed. I headed there as soon as I hung up the phone, bringing a wad of cash with me. And what did I find waiting for me when I got there? A Singer 96k40, mounted on a 20" x 48" wooded top, steel legged table, with a big clutch motor underneath. It looked like the sewing machine my Dad used in his tailor shop for many decades. I bought it for $300 cash, which included a few packs of #16 and #18 needles, spare bobbins, a couple cones of heavy cotton or polyester thread (button weight) and a small bottle of sewing machine oil.

    NOT EVERY INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE IS A LEATHER SEWING MACHINE

    It didn't take very long for me to discover that as impressive as that old Singer black body machine was, it was not a leather sewing machine! It did okay when sewing two flat seams, but skipped stitches and broke needles when I tried to sew hand cut fringe onto the back, or pockets onto the front sides. The third layer was too much for the straight stitch, bottom feed machine, especially when it encountered a new layer on top. It tended to just come to a halt and sew into the same hole until I remembered to use the knee lever to raise the foot to get on top of the new layer. This was really just a tailoring machine.

    Disappointed, I called the dealer I bought the machine from and explained the problems I was having with the machine. He said: "then you need a walking foot machine." He told me to keep 96k40 and the table and for another $250, sold me what he called a walking foot machine head. It was a Singer 31k47 and it dropped right into the same cutout in the table. The motor needed to be readjusted to compensate for the higher balance wheel/pulley and the knee lever had to be moved to hit the lift rod on the bottom of the machine. This machine was not a walking foot foot in the true sense. It had a spring loaded follow foot that moved back with the top layer, which was transported by the bottom feed dogs, then lifted and sprang forward for the next stitch. It had an alternating inside foot, which, like the needle, remained in a static position and just moved up and down. It did however manage to climb over new layers and sew my leather vest!

    After finishing my leather vest I began experimenting with sewing belts and straps. I found that the spring loaded presser foot on the 31k47 tended to slip on the top of my carved and hand polished belts. The hard veg-tan leather didn't feed well on that machine and it didn't like any thread larger than about #69, although I did coax it into sewing with #138 thread. So, I made some inquiries at other industrial sewing machine dealerships and finally found one that clued me into the fact that what I needed was a triple feed walking foot machine. They had them and wanted anywhere from $1500 to $2500, depending on the age and brand. This was a problem for me at that time because I couldn't come up with that much money in one shot.

    Just when I thought I had reached a major roadblock, a friend told me about a friend of his who wanted to sell all his leather craft stuff, including a sewing machine. After meeting with that guy, I handed him $1000 in cash and went home with a ton of hardware, leather, patterns, kits and ... a Singer 111w155 triple (compound) feed walking foot machine! That machine paid for itself and all the hardware in two months.

    WHAT KIND OF SEWING MACHINE DO I NEED TO SEW HANDGUN HOLSTERS AND KNIFE SHEATHES?

    I think a lot of leathercrafters reach a point of development when they want to make holster and knife sheathes and need a sewing machine that is truly up to the task. I reached that point in 1988. I had tried to sew pancake holsters and three layer sheathes on my Singer 111w155 and found that it struggled to penetrate the hard leather. Further, it could not handle any thread thicker than #138 bonded nylon. I tried using a #25 needle and #347 thread and all it did was skip stitches, break thread and filigree the leather. And, it was all I could do to start it sewing at all into that hardened leather. So, back to the industrial sewing machine dealer!

    I HAVE JUST THE MACHINE FOR YOU TO SEW VERY HEAVY LEATHER...

    That's what he told me on the phone, sometime around 1887. When I arrived at the store I was taken to a back room and shown a monster machine made by Singer; a model 132k6. I was told this machine will sew anything you can fit under the foot with up to #346 thread. That foot, which lifted to 1/2 inch, was a spring loaded foot, just like my 31k47, with an alternating up/down inside foot and static position needle. I had my doubts, but parted with $1300, plus tax, and took the machine home in my 1976 Ford Country Squire station wagon.

    I didn't beat around the bush with the 132k6. I loaded the top and huge bobbin with #346 thread, verified that it had a #25 leather point needle installed, cranked down the foot pressure, tightened the top tension and began sewing into a mock-up holster with an 8 ounce side filler. The leather lifted with every other stitch until I cranked the pressure spring all the way down. I did get it to sew up to about 3/8 inch of veg-tan holsters and knife sheathes, but had to almost sew one stitch at a time with the handwheel. Like the smaller 31k47, the presser foot tended to slip on top and this resulted in varying stitch lengths. This was not what I had in mind for a real leather sewing machine. When I complained to the dealer he shrugged and said it was the strongest machine he had or knew about. He would not buy it back ;-(

    I limited my few holsters and sheathes to two layers and sewed them on the 132k6, biding my time. I did fine into a little over 1/4 inch of veg-tan with #346 thread.

    During that time frame I began buying old Singer sewing machines from that dealer and from individuals. I had post bed machines, long arm and very short arm cylinder arm walking foot machines, a 45k25, a pull down lever sole stitcher, a blind stitcher and a small table top serger (I did some garment work to make money). I acquired two skivers: a Fortuna for light leathers and a United Shoe Machinery Puma for veg-tan and shoe soles.

    AT LAST, A REAL HOLSTER SEWING MACHINE!

    It was 1988 when I finally found a sewing machine that could actually do serious sewing into thick stack of leather, with heavy thread, producing stitches that didn't vary every few inches. I stumbled upon it at a Tandy Leather distribution warehouse, which was behind a retail shop. After rounding up some hand tools and other supplies, I asked if I could see the warehouse. The manager and I were the only people there and he said "okay." He switched on the lights and let me into the warehouse. As I looked around in amazement at all the products and kits stacked everywhere, something very large and black caught my eye. Right in the middle of the huge warehouse was the biggest sewing machine I had ever seen, much less imagined. It stood almost as tall as my head! It was a Union Lockstitch Machine, made by Randall, in NY, NY. I jokingly asked what they used it for and he told me that they had a man who used to sew bags, horse tack and large kit parts on it, but he had retired. The machine hadn't been turned on in at least 5 years. Best of all, they planned to put an ad in all the newspapers in the area to try to sell it! So, we haggled...

    An hour later I had left a $100 deposit on the machine. The next day, after going to the bank, I went back, 60 miles away from home, and bought that Union Lockstitch for a total of $1500. The manager and one employee helped remove the head from the table and loaded the beast into the back of the Country Squire wagon (it had a 400 c.i. motor). All it came with, besides the head, motor and table, was the needle and awl that were installed, one bobbin that was in the shuttle, and one spool of white #346 bonded nylon thread.

    I spent another $2000 over the next year buying needles, awls, bobbins, accessory feet, throat plates, edge guides and replacement parts. Most importantly, I bought two threading rods. The owner of a harness shop was nice enough to run a copy of his own manual for his Union Lockstitch.

    Having that machine was like having the Stargate to me. It sewed holsters and sheathes up to 3/4 inch thick and above. I figured out how to trick the foot to lift higher and used it to sew a holsters up to 7/8 of an inch! This was around 1989 and was very unheard of at that time. I got some of the heaviest thread made and by changing to the largest needle and awl was able to sew holsters with #554 thread, or 6 and 7 cord Barbour's Irish linen thread, run through Sellari's liquid wax in the huge waxpot.

    AN END COMES

    Leather work was a good business for me until 1996. By that time things were changing. The house I had been renting, where I had about 13 industrial sewing machines setup in the basement, was sold to a new owner, who asked me to leave. Despite searching for a half year, I couldn't find any house that was comparable at anywhere near the price I had been paying. In all the years I was renting the house for tiny increases ever few years, rents had gone up in that city to almost triple what I was paying and could afford. I contacted a good friend in another city, 250 miles away and he found a house in his city for half what I had been paying. But it was a much smaller house and the basement tended to leak when it rained heavily. So, I sold all but two sewing machines. I only kept my Union Lockstitch and the first machine I bought, the Singer 96k40 (which now had dozens of feet, folders and accessories, including a roller foot conversion). I did keep all of my thread, hardware, tools, books, patterns, dyes, arbor press and cutting dies.

    When I made that big move I tried doing leather work in the new location, but didn't have much success. I had been developing skills using, building and troubleshooting computers and came to a decision to switch careers. By 1998 I was a computer troubleshooter and no longer did any leather work. In the year 2001, I sold my Union Lockstitch machine and all of the parts and cartons of thread that went with it (thousands of dollars value), for $5,000. A few years later I sold almost all of my leathercraft tools, patterns, dyes, cutting dies, hardware, books, the 96k40, press and anything else I had pertaining to that trade and life. I did keep a small set of special stamping tools, some setting tools, a few alphabets and a head knife. All these tools were inside a Graflex press camera carrying case.

    IMG_0002.JPG
    This Union Lockstitch is a REAL leather sewing machine!

    NEW BEGINNINGS (next entry to come soon)

    After doing computer work for a dozen years, in 2010 I came to the conclusion that my heyday as a computer builder and troubleshooter had reached a natural conclusion. It wasn't exactly an overnight event, but rather a slow decline in business. The final straw was when I was called into a computer store, with whom I had previously left my resume, for an interview for a computer technician. The owner took one look at my 62 year old face, looked down at his hands, then asked questions like: "How well do you get along with younger workers?" "Do you have any medical issues that would interfere with doing your job?" "Do you have to go to a clinic or hospital for regular treatments?" Not once did he ask about my abilities as a computer builder, troubleshooter, or network tech!

    Luckily for me I had a very good long time friend who owned a leather work store. I asked him if he could use me a day or two a week to help in the shop. He tossed me a few days here and there and eventually took me on as his right hand man. I did most of the sewing and repaired leather jackets, sewed patches onto vests, repaired purses, built holsters and replaced zippers. When I first went to work for him in 2010, he only had an Adler 30-70 motorized long arm, high lift patcher. But, he later acquired a Cobra Class 4. I was a natural on both machines.

    In 2009 I wanted to do some leather projects on my own, so I hunted on Craigslist and found a really nice Singer 29k172, long arm, big bobbin patcher, complete with a matching cast iron treadle base. I began taking in some repairs and custom builds at home, which paid for the machine in a few months.

    In the middle of 2010 I bought a used National 300N walking foot machine from an upholstery shop. Then I began taking rifle slings and guitar straps home from my friend's leather shop to sew on a piece meal basis. I sewed so many slings and straps that it paid for my National sewing machine in one month!

    One year later, in 2011, I traded a recently acquired (Craigslist again) Adler 204-374 flat bed machine for an old, barebones Union Lockstitch machine. It was on again!

    Stay tuned folks! There's more to come.

     


    More photos of sewing machines I have had or still own.

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  4. Hi I love this site and over time I have learned many good things from here, lately I am having some trouble with one of my machines and hope some one can help me. As you can see from the pictures, it will stitch properly for a few stitches then some of the stitching comes out from the button , I have adjusted the timing , different needle thickness adjust the tension and still getting the same results , any one had the same problem and what they did to fix it or any suggestions I very much appreciate it.

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  5. I wanted to re-mount my Consew 226 walking foot sewing machine in a better table, and I had access to a replacement top. The new top didn’t have the required recess to mount the head unit, so I needed to rout one out. I started with a full-sized template of the shape I needed.

     

    Building the Template

    The corner diameter of the template needed to be 1-3/8”, and since I didn’t have a router bit that large, I used a Forstner bit to cut the holes.   The template is made from 1/2" MDF.

    59dfa5d3eebea_Sewingtable1-1.jpg.958f13c5e4d7dbd4079d073c952bdce4.jpg

     

     

    Then I completed the opening of the template with a router and spiral bit.  A clamp-on straightedge guides the router in a straight path.  

    59dfa61419614_Sewingtable2-1.jpg.1e2bdee2c4ae26427e1ccc3b0e8bfa10.jpg

     

     

    Next I made removable corner inserts for the template. I’ll explain the reasoning for these little triangular pieces in a minute. 

    59dfa6b753e00_Sewingtable4-1.jpg.64e969b3fadd4aeff5347e550b1eeddf.jpg

     

     

    They are easily made my marking the curve on some scrap, and sanding to the line. Then I cut them loose at the miter saw. These small pieces were 1-1/4” on the smaller sides, and 1-3/4” on the hypotenuse.

    59dfa6dc27d46_Sewingtable3-1.jpg.4625d185578706e915cdb65cadf9f51e.jpg

     

     

    Milling the Main Opening

    Then I used the template to pencil the shape of the opening on the sewing table top, and roughed it out with a jigsaw. At this point I was ready to clamp the full-sized template to the table top. The corner blocks were carpet taped in place, and I routed the opening flush with the template using a 2” long bearing-guided template bit (rout clockwise when inside a frame).

    59dfa70a83514_Sewingtable6-1.jpg.9ef4230e49f3818a9726e36b416ce502.jpg

     

     

    Here you can see how the corner blocks protect the corners, which will eventually support the weight of the sewing machine head.

    59dfa749dbb3c_sewingtable5-1.jpg.2d6dc101e2f358504e7973cce7d4e620.jpg

     

     

    Routing the Ledge 

    Next I switched to a 3/4” long bearing-guided template bit and removed the corner blocks. Then I was able to follow the template’s radiused corners to mill a small ledge. This cut was 5/8” deep, which allows 3/8” for the lip of the sewing machine, and 1/4” for the rubber bumpers that I’ll install later.  The 226 is a top loader, so I am shooting for a flush fit here.  If you have a side loader like the 206rb, you might want to make the ledge slightly shallower so the bobbin access plate clears the table.  

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    Bumpers and Hinges

    The rubber bumpers are just some rubber mat that you can buy in bulk at the hardware store. They are tacked in place, one at each corner. 

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    Then I drilled holes in a scrap of MDF with a 1-1/2” Forstner bit. I then used that as a template to rout holes for the hinges. I could have simply used the Forstner bit to drill out the hinges, but I find the router cuts to a more consistent depth. Then excavate a little spot for the hinge mechanism. This is easily accomplished with a trim router and 1/4” spiral bit.

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    Final Fitting

    The fit looks good, and the router bits cut the laminate cleanly.

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    It took me most of a Saturday to accomplish, but it sure looks nicer than the old table.  If anyone is contemplating a sewing machine table build, I found this full-sized template method with corner blocks worked quite well.  I'll hang on to the template, and if I need to do it again it'll be a snap.

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    Sewing table 1-1.jpg

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    bluesman1951
    Latest Entry

    To all who know renown jockey saddle maker Garland Sugarman ,he had a stroke a week ago and in that time there has been no improvement in his condition.He is the hospital in Albuquerque.

  6. By the end of the week I am expecting to receive the following in the post:

    • A cheap (Chinese made, with probable Japanese influence) beginner's sett of leather working tools from Ebay
    • A remnant/pieces pack of leather, needles, and thread from The Identity Store
    • A copy of "The Leatherworking Handbook" by Valerie Michael from Amazon

    Yet to acquire from the local chain DIY store (probably nearer the time, or on Sunday if it slips my mind before then which is likely to happen) are:

    • wood and fixings to make a cheap stitching pony
    • Evo-Stik Time Bond contact adhesive
    • an Oilstone (or similar) for inevitable initial sharpening of previously mentioned tools as well as general upkeep later on
    • miscellaneous things that catch my eye which may be helpful such as clamps, sandpaper, straight edge etc

    Other things yet to be appropriated into my "kit": 

    • worksurface stuff (cutting mat, poly board, granite (or similar))
    • decent desk lamp as most of my work will be completed in the late evening/small hours after finishing the late shift at "the day job" and goodness knows my eyes will need all the help they can get
    • edge slicking substance
    • graph/grid paper for when I feel up to making my own patterns
    • bone folder type tool
    • stitching awl

    Things I already have, yet to be consolidated together:

    • poly mallet
    • basic geometry set (ruler, square, compases etc)
    • pencils
    • large toolbox for storage
    • stack of "craft" drawers for storage
    • non-marring spudger set which I'm sure will come in handy for poking/prodding in crevices
    • metal bodied Utility knife (and blades)
    • Extra Virgin Olive Oil in lieu of more specialist finishes
    • tonnes of old clothes for rags

    Things I will probably get at a later date once I get a feel for everything (this does not include ad hoc replacement/upgrading of any of the above when needed):

    • butcher's block style work station (as I'll mostly be working at my 10yr old pine desk in my bedroom initially, maybe out in the shed weather permitting)
    • relevant dyes, treatments, etc and relevant applicators
    • basic carving tools (I do not plan on getting into this much but I guess it's always handy to be able pop a pretty border on something special)

    ___

    I know the cost of starting a new hobby from scratch is always going to be a major consideration, but it seems leathercraft is even more so. Yes I know it's no good moaning to other people who have all been there/done that, but starting out on a shoe string is still likely to cost me upwards of £100 ($125 for you colonials ;)).

    Being the sort of person I am, often doing things on a whim, and generally cautious with cash, I do not want to go to the lengths that some do and get The Works in terms of equipment and materials to start with. I don't want to spend a small fortune on something if I don't end up getting decently into it to justify the cost. That said, it seems the general advice in terms of initial outlay is "get the best you can afford" and that's what I'm doing I suppose. I guess there are those out there who have started out with much less, and I have no need nor reason trying to justify what I'm doing.

    I guess in a way I'm secretly hoping that I get sufficiently good enough at the whole "leather thing" that in the long run I can start going to fairs, events, do made-to-order and the like, and be able to become (at least partially) self employed. But that's definitely a long way off.

    I think for me leathercraft will always be a matter of being on a shoestring, at least in the sense of trying to get the best from the least. I've always been enthralled by the way craftsmen of all disciplines in years gone-by have come up with ingenious solutions which even centuries or millennia haven't changed much, and as much as possible I want to keep what I do "low-tech": drawing up templates by hand rather than using PC software, using as traditional methods and tools as possible, and if possible trying to be authentic in style/process with any historical based pieces I produce.

    I (like to think) I am fairly good at improvising, and this will also keep costs down. Who needs a £40 edge slicker when a double-pronged piece of deer antler (free if you know where/when to look) will do? Or expensive black dyes if you can master the likes of vinegaroon and lampblack?

     

  7. Din mid-søn modellen leveres med en godt polstret under føttene podium til basen. Basen kan behandles til lett og bærbar, følsom sammen med imøtekom enslig modell Det vil ikke raskt bli kvitt sammensetning. Dine solide materialer sammen med faktorer som sono stati benyttet under arbeidet effektivt Gjennom å levere en ny lett sammen med pålitelig erfaring.

     

    Din femte variasjon i Supernova Flytt Forbedre yttersåle kommer med en modell som er utviklet for å gi løperen til ny tøff ytre lag som vil skjerme sneaker via ødeleggelse sammen med slitasje. Tøff ly kan være tilgjengelig innen anstendighet silisium kjemisk substans, selv om nok en topp-tier teknologisk innovasjon presenterer pålitelig extender tørke ut og dynket materialer.

     

    Din Adidas Supernova Flytt Forbedre 8 løpere bærer en standard periode. Dine voksne menn sammen med kvinner stiler oppfylle de vanligste størrelsene i forhold til dimensjonering. Ideen beholder mellomstore fot for den mellom bredde utvikling. Den øverste vil bli Incendio utvide effektivt for å sikre ulike foten å tilpasse seg effektivt mens donning ideen.

     

    Din adiWEAR ™ er ofte en silikon kjemisk stoff som brukes i rearfoot del av denne spesifikke løpere. Ideen Øker løper høyt nivå riktig grep på utsiden. Det er tøft sammen med sunn, vedvarende utvidet i motsetning til vanlig silikon yttersåle. Hva er bjørnebær, blir det meste av en ny kroppsvekt, slik at det ikke vil føles som et produkt kan dra sammen http://www.runnernorge.com/adidas-yeezy-boost-350-v2-c-98_264.html din sneaker.

  8. Leather - Billfold's - ( Hand - Tool'ed ) - Specialist - Want'ed . . .

    Looking - for - Leather - Worker's - who - are - exceptionally - good - at -  ( Hand - Tool'ed ) - Leather - Billfold's - ( both ) - Laced - & - Stitch'ed . . .

    Looking - to - "Mass - Produce" - High - Quality - ( High-end ) - ( Hand - Tool'ed ) - Leather - Billfold's - for - ReSale . . .

    Looking - for - those - who - can - "Copy" - leather - work - that - has - already - been - done - by - other's - with - the - same -  "precision - detail" . . .

    ( and ) - create - new - design's - from - scratch . . .

    Contact - Dave  hood - in - Dallas ,  Texas . . .

    * * *  ( E-mail ) . . . :    Send.Reply.To@gmail.com

    .

    .

    .

  9. Have you ever noticed that every now and then when you’re more observant to the world around you, you see more of what people are doing? You see how they look, the style of their clothes, the amount of cleavage their clothes show, what kind of bag they have and what it’s made of. You see the style of shoes they are wearing and the condition they’re in, the colors of their clothes can tell you about the mood they might be in and so on. These things give us a clearer notion or feeling of their current state of mind, attitude and possibly their deeper character.

    Some of these things will change and vary from day to day and time to time. Like a t-shirt with a message on it won’t be worn the next day, or a hair style today might change in the next coming weeks, shoes change on a daily basis. But some things won’t change for a very long period of time, like a genuine distressed leather bag. And it’s these things that could be considered an extension of a person’s character. These things are usually of sentimental value, mostly because they have endured throughout the years and have been with you on many adventures.

    In many ways the style, fashion, material and color of a bag can give others a sense and feel of the kind of person you might be. Many of us have different intentions when we buy a new bag. Many times we want to impress our friends or co-workers, or we simply need a bag that is most suitable for our line of work or lifestyle. Some of us want to feel like we are more than we actually feel we are, so we buy a bag that reflects a romantic or ideal vision of ourselves. Some of us buy a bag because it simply looks good or goes well with the tone of our skin. Some of us are drawn to a bag because it gives us a sense of security or makes us feel more confident. And then there are those of us that are genuinely completely ecstatic about a particular bag.

    In the end, we buy the bag that we like, not just to look at, but to use, to carry and to show the world who we are. They personify who we are and who we hope to be, almost as if they are a piece of the puzzle to our characters. Just as every genuine leather bag is unique, so is every person who chooses one. They are an extension of our unique characters.

    By Noah Nichols

    Gritty Rustic Leather

  10. Tlhines

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  11. rdl123
    Latest Entry

    Got one side of my rear jockeys tooled up last night.

    Here is a fuzzy blackberry picture:

    tooled rear jockey

    Tooling is still amateurish but I am slowly getting more comfortable with it.

    I would appreciate feedback on what I can do to make it better.

    Thanks,

    Ron L

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    Hi to Everyone! I Love making purses and I'm working with faux leathers/vinyls before I try my hand at real leather. I'm wondering if anyone knows what type of sealant/ edge finisher used on outer finished edges of faux vinyl purses sold in stores? I've tried using edge kote and other types of sealants, but just isn't the same as the ones I see in the stores. Any input is greatly appreciated! Thank You all and have a great day! Happy Sewing!

  12. "I think the UEFA - and the FA Premier League and - protect must also decide standard fans demanding fans as a special case no longer home fans must be loaded into the equivalent area also prohibit" categorization away "so fans outside all clubs should be calculated the same lowest price in the same competition in the same season.You now reserve some of the cheap FIFA coins, which can prevent the playing of the game, due to the lack of FIFA 16 coins, the game was forced to dropped.

    "Clubs have to accept that they do not sell tickets in a normal competitive market than Fanclub loyalty means a monopoly, so it should not be applied and the economics of supply and normal demand.

    "You would not be able to do in other industries -. Banks, utilities, etc., where prices are regulated, since the market is not working effectively"

    FC Midtjylland has not responded to requests for comment Tuesday.

    "He has to learn what is normal, but he learned a lot in recent years and has made great progress in its development. For us it was an opportunity. You can not always make transfers a problem to solve.

    "I know people say that our defense is not very good, we have to defend as a better team, especially not to solve a problem - .. It is a transfer with a very good prospect for the future, long-term thing. but it can help right away and that's very good for us. " Do not know will not affect the sale of the game FIFA 16, cheap FIFA 16 coins will not affect sales?

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    jesippel
    Latest Entry

    I need help my W153 is no catching the bobbin and the top tread is winding around the bobbin case and jamming the machine. I have the hook set right and am unhinged the right needle and treads to match. Any help would help...

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    First of all: This is not my design. I found it on one of the many lurking sessions on Pinterest/Etsy. If anybody knows the original designer, please do let me know and I will gladly give him/her credit.

    Secondly: I do not yet own the proper equipment.

    After trying the stitching bit for a while on some pieces of scrap leather I wanted to "create" something.

    So here is the result, a wallet.

    blogentry-69008-0-09190500-1453223308_th

    blogentry-69008-0-18447300-1453223107_th

    blogentry-69008-0-17508300-1453223194_th

    blogentry-69008-0-20079100-1453222952_th

    I learned a fair few things while working with scraps. Preparation is key.

    blogentry-69008-0-05301300-1453222807_th

    blogentry-69008-0-30567400-1453222628_th

    blogentry-69008-0-94195700-1453222461_th

    I am moderately satisfied with the results.

    Plenty of room for improvement but I will be using this new home-made wallet.

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    Anyone know where I can find the one issue specific of LCSMJ? I am Missing Jul/Aug. 1991. LCSMJ does not have it so I an reaching out. Any ideas?

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    I have to say I am really happy and impressed right now. I was not sure where to give a shout out to these guys but I found leatherworker and thought it would be a good place. I ordered a Corriente Saddle form http://thesalebarn.com and I cannot be happier. I have ridden it about 10 times since out of the box. It even has tooling on the roughout! SO excited and happy to get riding it and roping agian. If you are looking for a good quality saddle please visit these guys. Thank you.

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    Johnboy Richter
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    Johnboy Richter here, I am new and would like to ask if anyone has any experience with the many diferent sizes of needles for the Singer 7-33. I have a needle on it (but I think it is for canvas ) and could take it to a local sewing store if I were home. ( I work off shore ) I looked all over the internet tryng to find cross reference charts and or specific needles for sale and could not make any sense of it. I have a GA5-1 and it does well but it does not have a walking foot and I dont want to mar the veg tan leather I am lining belts with. anyway, any help with finding good leather working needles would be greatly appreciated. R/jcr

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    blog-0469120001450756231.jpgWell, the last orders are out the door, the shop is closed and I'm packed up to make the trip to Atlanta to spend the holidays with my grand children. Had a good year, got lots of tips from folks here on Leatherworker.net, my wife and I are retired and just "Living the Dream". Gonna go play some music, have some good times, and then get back in the shop and start getting stuff made up for some music festivals this spring followed by my annual trip to Resogat in Wilkesboro, NC. to sell instrument straps to unsuspecting musicians. Goals for next year, improve carving skills, design some new products for the musician trades.

    Chief

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    I have a 1930s singer k7.5 which I think is missing a thread guide or I'm not threading it correctly . I can't get my hands on a diagram and any pic I can source on the net is vague . Is there Anyone who knows this machine ? It has a vibrating pressed foot and a shuttle bobbin . Any help appreciated

    Thank you

  13. Ive got an adler 467 for sale it has a walking foot, reverse stitch, adjustable stitch length and a stitch guide it comes with a stand and has a servo motor and the stand is on rollers. And I would sell the head seperatly.. Im asking $1300 or best offer!! if your interested i can send pics.