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  2. hey Cyis, 

    I saw the threads you posted you can source out leather tools. would you have a list which tools you can source out?...

  3. I think it's amazing work, and for hand stitching, outstanding work. I'd carry shells to the range in it.
  4. Does the screw on the back of the stitch length adjusting dial touch the corresponding screw on the large arm at the top back of the machine at any point? It should touch as you turn the handle somewhere between 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock.
  5. Thanks for the update @CaptQuirk. I have to add that I have no issues with Rogers leather and the backside is just fine. I wouldn't "finish" it because it doesn't need it. I'm sure the same goes for WC and HO leathers, b grade included. I have seen Tandy items that definitely needed it but that was before I knew better. I seldom use tan Cote for that purpose anymore. If you do for some reason need it perfectly smooth, you should consider lining it with thin leather like goat or calf. Just a thought
  6. I just spoke with Roger at RJF yesterday. His site has been down, due to some confusion with his Domain Provider. It should be up soon. His number is (607) 742-8969. He is located in upstate NY. But be aware, he does PayPal or Check only, he isn't set up to take credit card orders directly.
  7. Today
  8. I'm guessing you know the Haight Ashbury section of Cali? Probably not from the 60's though...
  9. Hi guys, Clicker cutting boards come in different types, but they're generally plastic or hard rubber. Hard Butyl rubber tends to last longer, but the dies don't cut quite as well, and the boards are harder to plane smooth again. Plastic boards, IMHO, are better because they're relatively cheap and can easily be planed smooth again. HDPE, Polyethylene, HDPS, and other cutting board surfaces all work well. Don't bother trying to buy something labeled "clicker boards". Just go to a plastics company and buy a 4ft x 4ft x 1" sheet and ask them to cut it down for you. They'll charge a small fee for cutting it, but you'll have 2 boards, which means you can continue working while your other one is getting planed smooth. Try not to plane the board to less than 1/2". Some of the older clickers don't have a rubber bump stop at the bottom, and there's a chance you'll damage the machine if you bottom the head. I start thinking about getting a new one once they're around 3/4" thick. After that, they become work bench board, or if they're clean enough, I'll use them for my BBQ smoker stuff. Alexander
  10. At one point I was buying a CNC machine to do my own plates. If that happened, it wouldn't be a problem making my own custom stamping plates. Unfortunately, I'm not doing that. I've been trying to find old leather stamps that are not made with some unique designs, but that's not reliable. Trying to find some out of the box thinking. My main areas are "fill" for the snap boxes like above, then the border that goes around all the plates like attached
  11. You do really good work-- technique and designs make actual championship belts! As for different designs or stamps or techniques, I wonder if you have enough money and demand to justify purchasing and using large stamping plates?
  12. I like your design. I must try it for my knife. Thanks for posting!
  13. There's a line forming for the bird feeder?@!@#$! Taken from the second floor deck over the back yard ... this guy waiting his turn while his buddy raids the bird seed. Two dogs at the patio door didn't worry him one bit ...
  14. MattS I have the pearson sewing really nice right now but the knob that is supposed to adjust the stitch length don't adjust anything it just spins and the stitch remains the same. I love the machine but it's just sewing 7 to the inch
  15. I agree with JLS, I use Herman Oak and the awesomeness of the back of the leather is one of the reasons.
  16. That's why I asked about top thread path. Your needle/thread combos seem about right. On a project I just did, I was able to "smooze" through by 'shortening' the top thread route.. as in wrap around teh tensioner ONCE instead of the twice that would be "normal". First time I've had to do that.. and it was due to the bottom thread pulling up way too much. Problem solved.
  17. Hello All, I'm new to the forum and also to working with leather. I have made a few different corsets and would like to make leather one, but am very nervous to try!! LOL I wondered if anyone would have guidance they could give. I have purchased a beautiful metallic leather from the Hidehouse and i have patterns from Scarlett Sapsford and would like to have a corset with no front opening as i would like to applique detailing on that section. So my questions are is that possible to make it with only the back lacing? Should i make it just like i do a regular corset? any advice will be greatly received. Thanks Mel
  18. IF someone sent you "hermann Oak" (in quotes because you're taking their word for it at that point) that is "fuzzy" -- scratch them off your list of suppliers. Period. I use H.O. all the time, and it is not 'fuzzy'. "B" grade is likely fine for what you're making, as you can cut out the "bits". W/C is also quite good, and I use that regularly as well. Very nice front and back. I do not "finish" the back side with anything.. never been a need to. You can - if you like - buy the leather already "pasted" on the back, though I personally do not.
  19. Thanks. I did notice that going down to a 7x3 19 needle it did help it. I then further loosened the top thread tension and notice it started to get better sewing two pieces that add up to the 7-8 ounce. I'm getting much better consistency now but still need to loosen and am surprised that the nut is almost at the end of the thread. I'm guessing a 7x3 18 might be to small for a 138 thread. I feel as if the 138 is the max for the 19 needle.
  20. I make Championship Belts like the ones used on TV by big companies. The majority of my work has been replicating the straps that those who have come before me have done; replicating their style. I am trying to come up with new/unique ways to tool my belt straps, without turning them into long, laborious projects. Due to the amount of orders I get and the expected turn around time, I'm lucky to have a few hours to work on a single strap. While many of the intricate designs of traditional leatherwork would be great on a strap, the customers simply aren't going to pay for the labor. Attached are some different tooling styles I have been plating around with. I guess I'm at a road block and looking on some advice on some different stamps, techniques or designs to incorporate into my work. Thank you Insert existing attachment Due to the size limit here, my full gallery is available on my website, BeltsByDan.com
  21. Do you know if this is the same kind of power dye that J. Hewit sells? They sell it in a much smaller quantity that is why I ask. Here is the link: http://www.hewitonline.com/Aniline_Leather_Dye_p/ms-070-000.htm Do you mix it like Abbey England recommends (with glue)? Thanks! -Adam
  22. Located in Canada but have quality clicker boards: http://simards.com/simona.html
  23. Very nice design, I like the use of Chicago screws? I'm guessing that is what you used on the turn back for the buckle.
  24. Depends on where ya go. Mille Lacs -- which is known across the country for walleye -- is no walleye, all year. Closed. I did go check the river (there's a dam just up the road) on opening day, but couldn't shake off all the midget smallmouth bass. "Officially", you can keep 5 or 6 walleye, but only the runts. SD gal knows, fish gotta be 20" to be worth gittin' my knife dirty. Them fit my grill jus' fine. Under 17" (which is allowed), I eat 6 or 7 of those just as a snak while I'm waitin' fer supper ta be ready!
  25. I tried responding earlier so I hope it doesn't double up. You can order direct from wickett and Craig or Hermann oak. That would be best for the best leather you can get. I know Hermann oak sends the best when you order direct but they have a minimum purchase amount of 10 hides I believe whereas WC will let you buy just one hide or maybe even a piece of one. But if you and or maybe some friends can swing it it is ultimately cheaper and better quality A grade leather. I recently got some veg tan from Roger at RJF leather co. I was pleased with it. It came split so the flesh side was not at all fuzzy. I believe he also offers a finished pasted and slicked back if you want to spend a little extra. For some reason his site isn't working for me right now so I can't actually confirm the pasted finish. He has a banner ad on this forum as well. He also offers drum dyed backs and English and European bridle leathers. It seems to tool nicely and is easy to work in my opinion. I believe he gets it from thoroughbred leather tannery. Maverick leather co offers both HO and WC leathers but are most likely b grades which can still be very nice. They offer a bunch of other cool stuff as well. As for finishing the flesh side of leather, I use feibings tan kote. Just put it on a cloth and rub it into the flesh side and go over it with a slicker, works great but takes a little effort. You may want to try on a bit of scrap first. It also adds a bit of water resistance as it kind of seals the leather. I hope this helps you out.
  26. Size limits, or ya can't keep any, at all??
  27. Yup. They don't say that in the brochures, but the reason they got fish up here is cuz there are laws against actually keepin' one here 'n' agin!
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