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  2. Working on the basketweave

    You did very well! Small elongate stamps like the one you apparently used are IMHO especially difficult to work with. I achieve passable results only since I’ve bought two of Barry King’s basket stamps.
  3. Today
  4. Quiver

    Thank you, RegisD! Basically I just hammered a single tool impression into a small piece of moist leather and put it on the scanner. Then I filled a page with copies of the scan. Making the little pictures transparent helps the precise arrangement of the pattern. Creating a pattern page isn’t as tedious as it might seem because you can double the outcome of each step.
  5. Working on the basketweave

    Thats looking just grand
  6. Clam, on the half shell.

    Does anyone have contact (email) fred moreau?
  7. Welting

    I did a quick search, and discovered that Goyser welting goes by other names: "Norvegese, Norweigan, Goyser, Bentavenegna--These are all similar construction methods with small differences, but the problem is that different makers call things differently, so it’s very hard to define exactly what is correct." --<http://shoegazing.se/english/2015/08/15/guide-methods-of-shoe-construction/> Have you searched for these other terms to find the how-to you want?
  8. Sheath For My Custom Karambit

    I like seeing the Filipino-style designs. And that's some pretty good tooling there, even for a ham-handed amateur as you call yourself!
  9. Working on the basketweave

    This is part of a knife sheath that I am working on for one of my husband's coworkers. I am new to leather and even newer to stamping. Though the work isn't without flaws, I am pleased with the progress that I am making. Basketweave is a tricky one, but I am determined to get it someday. I wanted to share with people who know what it's like to learn this trade.
  10. I looked into that myself when I was looking to buy a 3D printer but I can’t find anywhere that has specs or 3D files to print out blue guns, which would make it easier to make some decent holsters.
  11. Sheath For My Custom Karambit

    I made this a few months ago but haven't been very active on this forum (something I look to remedy). I had Rich Greenwood, a local bladesmith, custom make me a karambit for my gigantic hands. I then made the sheath for it, going for a friction fit. I feel like the tooling is my personal best (I know there isn't much tooling) but I don't do a lot of tooling so my growth is slow. I am a big guy with ham-sammich hands so the handle/knife is big. To many it may be a weird looking knife but I love it and Rich did an excellent job meeting my specs. While the tooling came out well, I ran into an issue when putting the knife back in the sheath. The shape/design and thickness made it very difficult to get a smooth re-sheathing. I still have to fiddle with it when trying to return it, but it draws fairly smooth. I think that I will make another sheath for it someday, perhaps using a combination of wood and leather. I know this is the show off section and people feel a little uncomfortable adding critiques, but I have improved so much because of your input. If you see something you would like to add your two cents on feel free! I appreciate it!
  12. Buffing, Buffing, buffing??

    Kind of an odd final step but I use good old shoe polish a dauber and a brush for a super finish. I just finished a product died USMC Black and it looks spectacular. Took off the EXCESS by buffing and then a coat of Aussie and then dry/absorb time, spray wax and the shoe shine. This was one of a dozen pieces made from drum dyed but I screwed up the edging on one in natural and had to dye the whole thing black. Looks the best of the batch. Bob
  13. The stamps I had #D Printed were from ABS and were fine, just that the surface was not absolutely smooth and left a texture. One was 6" and the other 3". Very good point about the fine detail. Might be either a waste of $$ and time or a long slippery slope like my first belt that turned into a leather business. (Billed $2k this week). BTW I have picked up the bass and just purchased a U-bass and an electric upright...fun!! Bob
  14. Bob; We have a friend who owns a small 3D printer. He burned some leather stamps (H.D.) for us in different types of plastic stock. The first one was not deep enough and was too soft. The shallow letters bent after two tries in moistened leather. The next stamp had much deeper letters (~1/8") and was made with a tougher plastic stock. This stamp has promise. I still hope to see if he can print with Delrin or something similar. Delrin stamps that we had made by a machine shop hold up really well. The bottom line is use cheaper plastic strands to get in the ballpark, then print the final product with the toughest plastic that is practical for your printer's heat/efficiency ratings. Any printed letter or figure stamping dies may need to be about 1/8 inch deep
  15. Welting

    Hello everyone. I've been search online for instructions in how to go about "goyser welting" and unfortunately I've not been lucky in finding any useful material. I would love and appreciate it if anyone can help in anyway concerning this. Attached below is an example I pulled from the internet. Thanks
  16. Don't feel bad about getting the thread size conversion wrong. I've been trying to wrap my head around it for years. Since the best way to learn something is trying to teach somebody else, I'll have a go at it. The Adler 267 brochure lists the specs below, which is probably where you saw the "30/3" The basic problem with thread descriptors results from the fact that while we intuitively think about thread in terms how thick the thread is, the official classification numbers either state the weight of a fixed length of thread (Ne or Number English), or the length of a fixed weight of thread (Nm or Number Metric). The tex number is the somewhat official system, and it's also based on the weight of a fixed length of thread. The Nm numbers usually include some indication of how many individual strands make up a thread. The "30/3" in our example means that the thread is made up of 3 individual fiber strands, and each strand is 30 Nm. So the total thread is really 30/3 = 10 Nm. It may feel like we should multiply the numbers (three strands of 30), but since it's a length measure, the resulting length of fixed weight of triple-spun thread is one third as long, not three times as long. That's also why 30/3 (30/3=10) is really of the same Nm length class as 20/2 (20/2=10). To further complicate things, the material of the thread impacts how thick it is, even with the same classification numbers. Most folks here use Nylon or Polyester, which I would put in the synthetic category. Corespun means the fiber strands that make up a thread are spun around a solid center filament core. Just like it's nearly impossible to convert a car's gas usage numbers from mpg (Miles Per Gallon) to l/100km (liters per 100 kilometer) in your head, the thread conversion can be tricky. I just now stumbled across a website of Ruoss-Kistler, a Swiss thread manufacturer that goes into the science of thread making in great detail. Un/fortunately it's in German. Among other great info, they have this conversion table with formulas: So our example of 30/3 thread should convert to tex as follows: tex= 1000/(30/3)Nm = 1000/10Nm = 100 tex (slightly heavier than the Tex 92 thread you can actually buy here in the U.S.) The heavier duty Adler 267-74 with the "10/3" spec calculates like this: tex= 1000/(10/3) = 1000/3.33Nm= 300 tex (slightly heavier than the Tex 270 thread you can actually buy.) In the real world, a well adjusted Adler 267-373 really does happily sew Tex 138 Nylon thread all day long, and perhaps even Tex 207 thread with careful adjustments and operation. There you have it - way more info than you asked for. But a least the whole European thread size thing is clearer in my mind now. And none of the above really tells us how thick the thread is, which is what we really want to know.
  17. Welting

    Hello everyone. I've been search online for instructions in how to go about "goyser welting" and unfortunately I've not been lucky in finding any useful material. I would love and appreciate it if anyone can helo in anyway concerning this. Thanks
  18. Weaver Leather has #9 rivets & burrs for $11.25 - 13.24 per pound .. price depends on quantity. I would call Scovill on the grommets. http://www.scovill.com/ Pricing on items like these are very quantity driven.
  19. I have been toying with the idea of getting a 3D printer for a few years. I had some stamps made by a local geek that said "Sedona" which I used to crank out some tourista stuff for a shop in Sedona. The "resolution" was ok but I would like to print more intracate designs for stamps. Do you think that's easily doable on a home system? I attend a couple of wide format printing shows annually and they are starting to show industrial grade 3D printers made by some of the leading digital printer manufacturers and they are impressive. What's your opinion Wiz?? Bob
  20. Knucklehead seat

    Wow that came out really nice. What did you finish it with?
  21. Ear ring parts

    I've ordered from Fire Mountain a few times and they've always done well. You know what you're getting and they ship quickly https://www.firemountaingems.com/
  22. Consew 226-R reverse stitching issues?

    Thanks, I'll do that. Also, as Pintodelux above has said, it is probably my needle thread combination once again.
  23. Ohio Travel Bag has #9 rivets and burrs for @$20-21 lb Gary
  24. Finally found a machine to replace my Juki 553 and the price was pretty good. It is missing the takeup leather guard, but that's not a big deal. Also looks like the additional tension disk is missing on top to the left of the post. The motor came with the 3" pulley, but its clutch was tuned to be like a kitten - I can stitch literally 1 stitch per second. This is a Mitsubishi without any shield and the seller did not know either. Looks like DB-130 to my uneducated guess. Can anyone ID this machine?
  25. Post bed machines

    Used machine and parts availability depends a lot on where on this planet your are located. High-quality used Pfaff and Durkopp Adler machines that are somewhat rare here in the U.S., are very common in Europe and other parts of the world. You can save a good deal of money if you can make do with a cylinder arm machine, which are much more common and affordable. It really depends on the design of your bags. If you really do need a walking foot post bed machine, wait a little, make some more bags and save up money for a good one. In the 70's and 80's a good industrial post bed sewing machine cost as much as a small car. Today they cost MUCH less than a small car.
  26. Correction to the ad above: now the whole rig is for sale, including the table with K-legs, your choice of motors as per above, a rather broken gooseneck lamp (coil unwinded at the bottom but still can be pointed in most directions used while stitching).
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