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  2. Joining Sides/sewing Gussets

    When I handsew gussets I simply mark stitch lines on both pieces, then layout the holes with either an overstitcher, pricking chisel, or sometimes I just run the pieces through my unthreaded machine. Now you have two pieces of leather with holes spaced identically and the same distance from the edge. I don’t glue the gussets - just saddle stitch, so it’s easy to push the awl through the first hole, look for the second hole and slip the awl through, then use your needles. Works great! Gary
  3. Leather Carving Styles....

    A lot of what people identify as "Celtic" (especially knotwork) is actually Anglo Saxon or Germanic in origin. Viking art is often pretty distinct from the Anglo Saxon stuff Looking on internet image searches, If you want the actual historical motifs and designs, you will have a difficult time figuring out what is the real stuff. Or you could look for the British Museum Pattern books, which use line drawings taken from historical artifacts from the cultures in question: Early Celtic Designs by Ian Stead and Karen Hughes is a nice collection of actual Celtic designs from the 5th C BC to the 1st century AD (thus avoiding the Celtic/Anglo Saxon knotwork). I've got this one on my shelf in the other room. The British Museum Pattern books also include the following (in no particular order): African Designs Ancient Egyptian Designs Early Medieval Designs Islamic Designs North American Indian Designs Roman Designs Greek Designs Iain Bain's famous Celtic Knotwork book is a nice mixture of historical patterns and instructions of how to make your own. He also points out that what we call "Celtic" when referring to knotwork is a conglomeration of cultural art motifs. Looking at illustrations from medieval illuminated manuscripts is a great way to get ideas, too. (see here: Woodcuts are great for leather, since the lines used to both cut wood and leather are similar (<> I've used the Bayeux Tapestry as well. ( You could do a google search for "celtic motifs" or "anglo saxon motifs" and get better results than when searching for "XX art" You could also look for books from the Dover Pictorial Archive (such as Viking Designs or Celtic and Old Norse Designs). These ones are not for the person who wants authenticity, though. That might be enough to get you going for a while.
  4. Bag terminology help?

    I would love to see it done step by step when you get a chance! Are you familiar with dooney and Bourke bags?they have a twisted strap they do that I love. If you can, google dooney and Bourke Sloan hobo. Is this strap two pieces glued together than edge painted? I see that they use the same strap leather for the trim and tassel. Just a thinner version. I have no idea what ounce leather I need for this strap!
  5. Cobra Class 14 Splitter tips??

    Dean thanks so much Greg Spitz MD,FACS! PS I use my Techsew Skiver to get down to paper thin if needed. Thanks
  6. Roller feed vs walking foot

    Lol I agree. I just bought a skiving machine so looks like I need to save up now for a roller feed post bed.....before that though I need a fileteuse ugh. Anyone ever bought the set up has? It comes with 7 tips..two handles..and the transformer...all for 440.
  7. Ok where can I find your YouTube videos? I will look for roller feet online now.
  8. I bought this machine about four months ago and have used it for 20 - 30 minutes at the most. I just don't have the use for it so my loss is your gain. Will deliver free within 2 hour drive of the Tri Cities Washington. ...or delivery at your own cost. Machine works great, but I have adjusted it to my preference so will need adjusting again. All accessories included. $1,000 with free delivery (within two hours of Tri Cites WA) $900 without free pay the cost to deliver. More pictures available...PM me. Thanks
  9. Wait, what?? You ALWAYS need to buy a new tool.
  10. Roller feed vs walking foot

    Sounds like you need another machine , one designed to use a roller foot.
  11. Joining Sides/sewing Gussets

    This is tremendous and timely information. I'm about to build a guitar amplifier cover using the exact technique described here, essentially an upside down "messenger bag" style container with no lid, but the top, front, and back will be one piece of leather, and separate pieces for the sides. Sjohnsone, very nice bag you made! I think it looks great. Looks like my old "mochila" from when I was a kid! PepeUnidos
  12. Industrial Splitter (1 ounce veg tan)

    I don't think any splitter is made to shave a small layer. You have to go from thicker down to the desired thickness.

    IP address puts him in Missoula, Montana, 59808 Tom
  14. The steel feed wheel should only be necessary for firm to hard leathers and there are a few advantages to sticking with the stone as well unless you get a lot of feed slipping problems. A roller foot would be something to get if you have not already. If you check my you tube vids may help there.
  15. Leather Carving Styles....

    Thanks guys. I'll look into some different line drawing searches. I'm not so into the rose idea. Maybe I will have to just play and come up with my own style. We'll see.
  16. Leather Carving Styles....

    tudor rose line drawing - Google Search
  17. Leather Carving Styles....

    Just looked up Tudor Rose Outline on Google images, and a number came up, that would make good "English" coasters H
  18. Leather Carving Styles....

    Hi bikermutt My first foray into leather goods was a in 1977, when I was asked to make some stuff for a club in England. Prior to that I had done pewter work and copperwork. I spent ages with little success other than mediaeval tiles or religious grafitti. Moving forward you could look at the Tudor roses and similar, then you're into te-enactment era, and they'd have more than me. Pictish Keys and Celtic knotwork took my fancy so I moved onto that, rather than keep looking at Roses. More natural, and bestiary designs were more common in English Churches. The Roses are simplified, and the keys and knots are linework, but can be interesting. A good source for one off designs may be from book plate scans or the Victoria and Albert online. I will try to see more tomorrow. Harry
  19. Leather Carving Styles....

    Also could do inverse carving.
  20. Leather Carving Styles....

    Use the term "line drawing" when you search on google images, tons of stuff on there, I use it all the time. Easy to get back into the swing of using your swivel knife. Make a bunch of coasters out of a cheap belly for practice, not sure what other use bellys are?
  21. Industrial Splitter (1 ounce veg tan)

    From what thickness are you splitting? My splitter is much better at splitting, say, 3mm down to 0.7 than 1 down to 0.7. I find that stiffness of the original piece is key.
  22. Leather Carving Styles....

    Maybe I should just go back to my old black on white roots. I used to draw in my teens. People always called it tribal though. It wasn't of course, it was mine.
  23. That’s perfect! Didn’t even know that I needed to buy a new tool...
  24. This holster is for an XDm .45 acp. As I recall the holster pocket is significantly larger than a comparable Glock holster. I don’t typically make holsters for the XDm so this is the only one I’ve done. You’ll likely have to modify any Glock pattern significantly.
  25. I have the Cobra 14 but it doesn't do well splitting to or just below two ounces. I need a consistent .7mm thickness for my wallets. I believe splitters made for this purpose are going to be too large and expensive. I'm wondering if anyone has figured out a way to get leather down to an even .7mm or if the leather can be farmed out to someone with these big splitters.
  26. Cobra Class 14 Splitter tips??

    In my opinion don't try and split moss back leather. It dulls the blade really fast. Make sure it's properly tunes so a 10" by 2" test strip has a consistent thickness from the beginning to the end (fix for that is posted here somewhere). Make sure blade is honed then sharpened when needed. I like the trade in program at leather machine co. All leather is different so test pieces first. Some will allow you to jump 2-3 ounces down, some only 1-2 ounces (also dependent on initial thickness). It's great down to about 3 ounces. I find it is too inconsistent to get pieces down to one ounce (something I need). Dean Lapinel, MD
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