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  2. I use loads of the small office bulldog clips as well, with the lolly sticks. For a thinner stick is a McDonalds [not the farmer chappie - the fast 'food' place] stirring stick. I do not advocate taking a big load from them as that is stealing, but an extra one or two every time you're in and you'll soon have several hundred...... I thank Blue Peter. John, Peter, Val et al. They say you can age someone by who their favorite BP presenters were and their fav Dr. Who. I confusethose who want to know my dob with; fav Dr. Who is Patrick Troughton and for BP its Konnie Huq Sticky back plastic rules!
  3. Good afternoon everyone. What is the best method for lubricating thread that won't damage the machine or the leather or over saturate the thread? I've seen a vendor spray silicone lubricant directly on the thread while it was on the cone when sewing leather garments. I've also seen in catalogs the thread lube box and thread pot. But which which is the better application of lubricant on the tread? Please advise.
  4. Hi all! Any suggestions on where to find a custom embossing stamp for larger items? I've seen smaller stamps for something like a makers mark, but I'm looking for stamps that could be as large as 12" x 5" that has a custom shape. I would like to potentially place this in a hydraulic press to stamp/emboss a mass produced item.
  5. I finally decided to get the OMAC Star3000. I should have purchased it last December as the price had gone up since my initial quote. I held out a bit because the vendor didn't have it in stock and it would arrive well past the time I needed it to mass produce leather straps for my suspenders. Once I get it going, I'll report back on how it's working out for me.
  6. Any suggestions on a leather splitter machine, electric preferred, that has a small foot print? I'm a home based business and need to find machines with a small footprint for a small work space. I don't foresee anything having to be split that has a width over 10" at this phase of my business. Advise is greatly appreciated!
  7. Dixon Style Adjustable Creaser I purchased the crease from a UK vendor who sources them from a former Dixon employee. Width of the crease is different depending on the angle you hold it to the leather. Not sure if this was intentional, but I found that versatility useful. I'm selling it in an effort to now save for a Kingsley and an electric creaser. Paid $59 including international shipping on the creaser. Asking $45 including free delivery. Barry King Marking Awl Also selling a lightly used Barry King marking awl as part of the fund raising. Brands new this costs $49 including shipping. Asking $40 with free shipping.
  8. Today
  9. What kind of quality are you looking for and what period correctness. Velvet or velveteen for an 1800's Colt or Smith, wool for a English or European case or felt for a cheap modern production gun. I use a high quality wool for mine try Muellers Billiards but ask for samples first, some of the cloth is really nice and others are really cheap looking and felling. Wool is more expensive but more durable and will not pill up and snag like felt.
  10. Oo that's a tricky question... If they are fitted correctly I suppose and your feet don't change ie arches dropping or other conditions, a good pair of leather shoes should get more and more comfortable as the leather molds to your feet and movements... Its always good to keep shoe trees in them when not in use as shoes get soft and warm on your feet then cool down when you don't have them on and if they have creases in them or you leave them bent up in a wierd way they will cool and set that way and maybe rub when you put you're new days feet into them! Hope it helps I might just be babbling
  11. Awesome I'll have a look thanks for this
  12. Hi everyone! I'm currently looking into getting custom cutting dies for leather in order to improve my efficiency in creating mass produced items. I initially looked at the Weaver Master Tool Mighty Wonder Hand Operated clicker, but with all the other machines that I'm having to purchase right now (ex: strap cutting machine and strap folding machine) I'm trying to keep my expenses low to stay within my budget. Something I'm considering is purchasing an hydraulic press and clicker press plates to cut down my cost. The Weaver 12 ton press is $285, but I found a few at harbor freight for $119 (possibly less with a coupon if I can find one). Now I always see mixed reviews about Harbor Freight tools ("you get what you pay for", "horrible", or "great product") so I'm looking for feedback from anyone who may have used the Harbor Freight press. The major difference I see in the presses is that the Weaver press (can be used on your work bench) doesn't take up as much space as the Harbor Freight (taller). Any feedback would be great! Also have any of you used the Weaver belt end dies or other cutting dies with a hydrolic press? Anything that I should be aware of or consider when getting custom dies made? Do the presses damage the dies at all? How long do the dies usually last?
  13. I ended up re-routing the top thread a bit to use the poly thread. Not sure I entirely "get" what's going on in there, but it worked, so I'm good (ish). I could see that could become a pain switching back and forth one to the other. But I don't care for that little bobbin case thingie on these anyway... that little screw wouldn't take much to strip out, and it appears that assembly is about &80 (sold as a subassembly?), so not crazy about moving it back and forth regularly.
  14. I haven't made it myself...Does it smell of vinegar? This site has some suggestions. It says to add iron if yours is dissolved and still smells strongly of vinegar or heat it up a little if it smells and you still have iron. It mentions the smell should go away (relatively) when it's balanced right(vinegar to iron) I hope it helps you out. There's also some interesting tips on using it as well. https://www.adamsleatherworks.com/vinegaroon-a-k-a-vinegar-black/
  15. I only have a home sewing machine and haven't yet jumped into the world of big machines, but as I think about it, it stands to reason that different threads might have different tensioning needs. Sewing machines rely on friction for tensioning, and different threads would likely have different coefficients of friction leading to different results. To some extent top tension and bobbin tension using the same thread would somewhat offset that problem - but if you look at it - the bobbin has a tiny amount or surface area making thread contact in relation to the much larger surface area of the top tensioners, which would likely make them uneven. I suspect that you might find similar but likely smaller differences between manufacturers of the same type of thread - Perhaps they use different bonding agents and processes or have slight differences between thread size. I could be wrong, but maybe one of the real experts can shed more light! Bill
  16. I do not know where you can a new one, as most of the manufacturers have gone out of business, but I have some old locks that look similar. I would need a better picture to tell if I have same one
  17. So they really are "built to last" hehe How long will a pair of shoes be comfortable if maintained correctly?
  18. I have found that polyester hangs up quite a bit more in the machine..so problematic for me I barely use it.. just my 2 cents.
  19. I blame Blue Peter myself.........
  20. Thank you Bill, yes they're super comfy! I have been painstakingly teaching myself shoe making through lots of trials and errors, I trained in all other leather work as an apprentice to a master saddler in Wales for 4 years and have been trying to accomplish shoes in my spare time! I like watching this lady's tutorials on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/user/SKDEZIGN and I have some really old cobblers books and patterns. The pattern making is key! To get good at first and then the actual shoe making just utilises the general leather working skills that you probably already have. I made up my own way of stitching down the soles to skip a few steps in the very long process but I suggest you go fully into good year welting and proper lasted shoes if you want to get a full understanding of them as many beautiful shoes are still made like that for a reason. I suggest buying yourself a set of lasts in your size, lots of masking tape and card and cheap leather that you don't mind messing up because believe me you will! Any more questions I'm happy to help
  21. Thanks I love to read about the way things are made!
  22. I do the same thing since I find it very hard to exactly center pricking irons on a line. Stitching chisels are a little easier since they have points, but not quite the same thing. I've been contemplating putting two lines, spaced to the width of the pricking iron and make a heavy-ish line to see how that would look - turn it into a feature! Bill
  23. I don't think you can lay down the whole thing (table+head) on its back side - the machine head will just fall out of the table in a rather spectacular fashion as you're tilting the whole rig back. I do agree about gently "pre-falling" things, but separately. Lay the head on the back, there's fewer fragile bits. An old bathroom carpet with a rubber bottom is great for cushioning and to soak up oil that will invariably leak from a machine that's not upright. Getting oil out of the trunk carpet is very hard to do. If you have an open back seat in a normal sedan-like car, the safest place for the machine head is actually in the footwell behind the front seat, I think. It's just a little awkward to get it there.
  24. Those look really awesome, and I bet they're darned comfy too! I'd love to have a go at making shoes one of these days. Do you have any suggestions for learning resources? Bill
  25. Looks ok to me! Honestly "your mileage may vary" when you try to emboss on any "pullup" leathers. I've had mixed success depending on the leather, even with professional equipment. Copper Rough and Tough, for example just doesn't emboss in a very attractive and striking way.
  26. Where are we getting a quality cutting surface for clicker dies? I've been getting by with cheap stuff... replacing pretty frequently. Today, I do a search, and it takes me to Tippman. So I guess I'll try that, and "add to cart", but - much like many sites - it won't let me see the shipping or expected time frame until after I "register" on the site. They talked themselves out of my business with that - I left. Here's the thing.. I"m just done 'signing up'. Signed up for something at tandy years ago, and still getting crap in the mail and email. Ordered once from cabela's.. got emails until I changed the email address. Went through all that at Weaver, just so they could send me some leather that .. well, let's just say that signing up at Weaver was a waste of time. Like so many others. Seriously.. I just want a cutting board to put under clicker dies that will last a bit without being an investment ...
  27. If you are moving it yourself, and either can't or don't want to remove the head and pack it separately, (which is the best way), lay it down in the trailer or truck, rather than haul it standing up. These things are pretty top-heavy. If it is already laying down, it can't fall over and be damaged !!
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