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  2. Thanks for giving us your time Brian, that machine looks like the dog's doodahs. The extra detail really helps too. Do you think the knurling on the wheels adds much to paint pickup?
  3. Today
  4. Thank you for the advice! Much appreciated!!
  5. Bobby, I take your point re- the slits and can see what you mean. In my case it won't matter because it can only be used at the range so little chance of it catching on something. I had, however, already thought of that potential issue and am considering punching small holes at the ends of the slits which hopefully should help relieve stresses at that point. Clintock, I had a look at the site. I'm assuming that their holsters are mass-produced to provide a relatively inexpensive product, and as such might suit some people who just want a basic holster, but they look "clunky" to me. The three-loop, in particular, just look wrong, the straps are too thick and too close together and in places are a sloppy fit. But then I'm known to be picky! As for the edges of the slits, one site I came across said to insert a steel ruler (or similar) into the slit to lift the strap up which will allow access to the edge. It should be possible to finish the edges, but may require a bit of "creative thinking" to do so. Guess I'll find out, and if it doesn't work then I'll simply turn the slits into slots! My template just needs a bit of minor tweaking, but I've learned not to rush and to give it plenty of thought to try and figure out what I've missed....
  6. I made this machine quite awhile before my cad drawing days unfortunately but I will try and get you as much info as I can with regards to sizing and close up pics etc asap. As Bill rightly said I am flat out on some 300+hornback belt orders for a couple of more weeks to go to China and I cant be later than I already am. It is fairly simple but some decent welding ability is needed. The trickiest bit was working out how to make the wheels turn in toward each other but once I worked out to run an idling cog inside and used the back of the chain on the left wheel to drive it, it was easy. For the moment I will post a few still shots which may help a bit. The bucket and wheel on the right don't swing in and out but the right one does to allow adjustment for size widths and has a spring inside to allow to move in and out with tapers etc.The wheels were cut out of some 1" flat plate aluminium and some 1" round was set into that and welded on and then bored out to about 5/8" hole. Once the hole was done and the rods threaded it then was lathed and knurled. I will take a lot of pictures and measurements and try and put them together in as easy way to understand as I can. Thanks for the positive comments Regards Brian
  7. Iam sorry)) i am looking for Chan Geer dvd "drawing sheridan style patterns" Is there this video on learnleather.com?
  8. I forgot to say in my earlier post that's pretty impressive service from Darren, what I call real old-school type of service.
  9. Just a thought (and I'm probably on the wrong track) but I thought the 132K6 had a "snap foot" system, where the presser foot kicked forward and back? (Or something like that). If that's the case then if this one has a roller foot then it can't use the same "snap feed", can it?
  10. Thanks I cant find any photoengravers in the UK I wonder if it is called something different in the UK. I am sure they are good quality if I was a professional leatherworker I would definitely invest in a starter set. I was hoping that there may be someone here who had used one of the cheaper sets. I guess I need to think about investing in the Hexnhit set. Thanks Michael
  11. The same video as what?
  12. is it the same video?
  13. Clever idea, and obviously saves a lot of time for you. I would also love more info on the construction.
  14. You can try pulling the thread between a folded piece of paper. That might help by kind of polishing the wax / getting the extra wax off. And might not help at all, but it won't cost much to try and see if helps.
  15. looks like a real fossil. finish it , might be real cool
  16. North East Scuba Supply (online, with physical shop in Norristown, Philly) might have some decent retractors used for dive gear that'll stand up to the salt water. They also stock a great range of assorted stainless steel hardware at very reasonable prices.
  17. Nice work!
  18. I drove mine across the country with the head on the table. All the welds in the table broke loose. Had to re weld the table when I got to my destination.
  19. I'm new to the the leather game and want to charge enough to make a profit, however, I like to hook people up with one of a kind items affordably. What would you sell this for? It took me 4 hours to tool.
  20. Thanks a ton! My intuition said return it, especially given the price I paid. Being new to the game, I still feel naive when it comes to the different tanneries and suppliers. Still learning, onward and upward, thanks again.
  21. We are selling our Artisan Toro 4000. Sews great, we just don't need it. Not interested in shipping it at this time. Local pickup only. Come try it out! We are located just east of Tulsa, OK. Asking $1,700 msg me for pics.. I'm having trouble getting them to upload.
  22. Greetings, my name is Randall Smith and I am fairly new to the leather game. I am currently specializing in making high quality and long lasting belts. I've been hand tooling leather belts with 8-10oz Tandy Leather Hides and recently tried an 8-10oz Wickett and Craig tooling side. It seems to me that 8-10oz leather is not thick enough to be durable for a long period of time. I am wondering what leather and thickness you use in order to make the longest lasting tooled belts. I thought about buying skirting because it's typically thicker, but I'm worried that skirting sides wont be as clean. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Additionally, I have been making english bridle belts with Wickett and Craigs leather in 10-12oz. I am wondering what brand ( Hermann Oak, Wickett and Craig, etc), what style ( Harness, English Bridle, Bridle, Skirting, etc), and what thickness (oz) makes the highest quality and longest lasting belt (In your opinion). Help would be greatly appreciated, I'm trying to make the best!! Randall
  23. This is business and if the product is not to the standards expected, and advertised, then you should return it. The W & C issue is not new and there have been several posts over the past couple of years that document this issue. The choice is yours on whether or not to return it but from what I see from your attached image this is obviously a very fatty and terrible piece of leather. I haven't seen anything this bad from Tandy and their cheapest/lowest quality line (Craftsman Oak). If I had received a piece of leather looking like this, especially for the price that they charge, I would contact them and let them know that it is being boxed up and coming back to them. I would then make sure that a refund was done and I would spend my money with H.O. because I have yet to have an issue with their leathers; their lowest grades look better than this one does.
  24. Greetings. I am a fairly new leather worker who is specializing in belts at the moment. I recently placed an order with Wickett and Craig and asked for the "Top of the line" english bridle leather in four different colors. I spent a great deal of money. I ordered a side previously and the quality was wonderful. After receiving the latest batch of leather I observed that one or two of the sides were ugly and made up of wrinkles and grain issues, leaving me with would be a small yield. I am especially unhappy that I spent $17.50/ft on a double bend that has many imperfections as well. I am wondering if it is common practice to return hides or whether that is an industry "no no." I've heard great things about Wickett and Craig, but fear that my products wont be superior quality if I allow them to send me anything less than above average leather. Guidance would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to ruin my rapport with the sales staff by being too picky, but I want and need only the best. Additionally, I would like to know if anyone has any input on where to get the highest quality English Bridle leather.
  25. Uwe, holy cow... it literally just lifted right out. I didn't even think of that. Ok. I'm good now... This is why using this forum is so awesome. Question answered.
  26. It depends a little on what your hinge looks like. A picture would be cool. Normally, you first tilt the machine back to remove the belt (and belt cover pieces.) You should then be able to lift the machine straight up out of the table.
  27. Yesterday
  28. Just received the BK mallet. IT'S HUGE! Now it'll take me one whack instead of 20 for the rougher stuff! My wife is convinced it's actually a bedside self defense device. Thanks!
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