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  2. What would be involved in using a Singer 45K25 (bottom feed) occasionally for darning? I'm thinking it would need at least a needle plate with just a needle hole, the feed dog removed, stitch length set to zero, the roller foot removed, a rebound spring added on the presser bar like the one shown by the arrow in the picture (it's the Singer 45K76 darning machine in the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1MCZ138rAQ ). Surely there's more to it. Thank you, thank you very much.
  3. Dopp Kit w/a Western Flair

    Looks great! I like the contrast.
  4. Today
  5. Beginner needing machine

    Double needle machines are used in upholstery for topstitching across previously sewn seams (that were sewn together inside out). They are also used in the construction of jeans and work clothing to secure and reinforce folded down seams. These are normally flatbed machines with large bobbins with fast clutch motors (time is money in upholstery) driving them at 2000 rpm and above. Turning sharp corners is tricky with twin needles. You won't usually find these machines in hobbyists' leather shops. They are factory machines used by auto seat cover makers and professional upholsterers. Any flatbed machine gives better support to flat work than a cylinder arm machine. Sitting down at a full size table is much better than trying to fit flat work onto an add-on table attachment on a stand up cylinder arm. Cylinder arm machines are a must have if you sew things that cannot be held flat on the bottom. This includes shaped holsters, pouches and cases with belt loops and clips sewn or riveted on the back, hats, cue stick bags and round objects and preformed curved straps. Cylinder arm machines are usually built to sew at the very left edge of the arm, allowing shaped work to move below the throat plate level. You cannot do this on a flatbed machine. Clothing often takes multiple types of sewing machines to assemble. Some jeans require at least 5 different sewing machines. Backpacks and some bags can take two or three machines (flatbed, post bed and cylinder arm). You will no doubt find that you need more than one machine to do professional work. Some will be light duty and some may be heavy duty. Different builds of machines accept different ranges of thread You have much to learn and a lot of money to set aside to experiment with. The simplest way to begin is with a common flatbed walking foot machine and build your inventory as the need reveals itself. Some members here start with a cylinder arm machine and construct or buy a slide or bolt on table attachment. But, if you really need a cylinder arm to sew a part, nothing else will do the same job.
  6. Belts - Two Rivets or One?

    G'Day, I use x 2 press studs , line 24's , so the customer has the option of changing the buckle . But some of the heavier belts, tool belts etc. are either sewn or riveted . HS
  7. Belts - Two Rivets or One?

    Sewing can be stronger or it can be a wear point. Stitching across a belt is like the perforations between postage stamps, just waiting to be torn apart. Personally, I like Chicago screws so the buckle can be changed or re-used when the belt needs to be renovated.
  8. Beginner's Questions...Again

    If a person is diligent and pays attention to detail any beginner set of tools will work but as you grow and if you get some profit from a few pieces allot some of that money for not just better quality tools but a wider array. As I've made more projects I've found that better quality and a wider range of tools not only cuts down on time and frustration but allows me the free time to get more creative. I started by buying what I could afford and I've bent or snapped needles, bent stamps, tried to free hand cut half circles and slipped ruining a strap here and there. Beginner tools are fine but as time goes better tools prove their worth.
  9. Leathercraft Guilds

    I am a member of two leatherworkers groups within an hour of my home in Western Australia. Both are friendly, informative and helpful. Sometimes (but not always) I have found its what you put out, that comes back to you.
  10. Anyone know who makes these?

    Aven, thank you. I found the info.
  11. A complete Newbie from Western Massachusetts

    Mass guy here too, I got back into it for holsters but then found out I liked making a lot more. Holsters alone can make you some nice side coin and for your own pieces the comfort of choosing every angle, fit and finish of how you get a hold on your steel is unmatched. Definitely try a good deal of hand stitching, I have no disrespect of machines but hand stitching gives you a serious feeling of completion. Just don't be afraid to use a thimble or make a leather palm pad to catch needles and awls on the press through, nothing like getting excited to finish a piece and shoving an awl through your piece and into your hand. Best of luck.
  12. New Partnership for Tandy

    Tandy Australia are shutting shop in March and will ship from the US. I received a "specials" email from them ....the first in about 2 months, .... but it was " in-store only specials" , Um....they're in the east....about 4000k's away . Yeah.... good one , needless to say I deleted the email. All the printed catalogues have stopped altogether now . I have to agree.I now have 3 main suppliers that sell the same thing as Tandy, but cheaper...and do wholesale without joining a club. Tandy never existed when I started leather work 14 years ago, never even heard of them ( with exception of the electronics retailer....and they went years ago ). And now, its almost like they don't exist again.Back then, I found all my tools, supplies etc. in a pokey little shop run by a little ol' lady in Perth by going through the yellow pages ( pre internet) . Ditto for my sides of leather, found a supplier in Bayswater ( Perth), in the yellow pages and asking that lil' ol' lady a lot of questions . All my ' how to ' stuff came courtesy of books , and word of mouth, asking questions etc. and simply by working stuff out for myself . I didn't discover ' youtube' until many years later. HS
  13. Help with Round braided cord

    Veg tanned, water, a plank and a solid smooth surface. Braiding is just a pattern, whether 3,4,6 or 8 keep your plaits tight and uniform, keep the skin side out and as long as it's not sealed you just have to get the braid wet and roll it back in forth in between a hard flat surface and a hard smooth plank. You can turn a braid so round and smooth it will look like clay that came out of an extruder. When I make whips I skive or edge the strips to get an even tighter, rounder finish.
  14. New Year's Resolution

    My new years resolution is to have more at the end of the year. I started with nothing, and I still have some of it left.
  15. Anyone know who makes these?

    It can be used in a foot press or hand press. Same concept but different methods of powering it
  16. Kevlar Thread Questions

    Be careful with some of the stronger stuff, I used Spectrafiber for a bit and the beadstress that sold it to me said "if you try to tie this too tight you'll find fingers on the ground." I try not to imagine someone trying to snap off the excess by just yanking a thread that thin and strong. Like others have stated for finishing I just back stitch down a few holes and then used a curved needle to come between the plies, use a finishing knot and tuck it back in between the plies. Since it's backstitched down a few holes it receives virtually no tension and if it's tucked back in it receives no abrasion and is hidden from view.
  17. Thanks for the photo, JJN. I misunderstood Gregg’s statement, if that was the lever he referred to. I stand corrected. My Econosew does not have the lever pictured. Does that Juki lever assist with the removal of the bobbin case? Thanks, Dale
  18. Hello

    bikermutt07 Thanks for all the leads, I'll be checking them out this weekend.
  19. Beginner needing machine

    Thanks Glenn. What are your thoughts on double needle machines and cylinder arm versus flat bed?
  20. Dopp Kit w/a Western Flair

    Had an order to make a Dopp Kit with a Western theme .....I used Bison, with a hand stamped basketweave accent.
  21. Tank Panel for Harley Davidson Deluxe

    Beautiful!
  22. Vintage style briefcase

    Love the plaid!
  23. Do you want to sell? I wrote a PM...... God bless
  24. Info on double welt?

    The welt size on the foot equals the diameter of the covered cord. If your cord is 3/16" and the covering material is 1/16", the combined diameter is 1/4". That's the size of welt foot you need for that combo. Most double welt feet are 1/4", but others are available. Singer 111 feet refers to a style compatible with a Singer 111w155. Since Singer has been out of the industrial sewing machine business for a long long time, the only actual Singer feet for sale will be used, or new old stock. Good luck finding authentic Singer feet. If you hunt long enough, some will show up. otherwise, buy what's available in the market. Ask local upholstery shops if they have an extra set of "Singer" double welt feet. I scored mine with a machine I bought from an upholstery shop. It was in the drawer.
  25. @Foiler, I think Gregg was referring to the part in this photo when he said 'bobbin case opening lever'. Not the latch on the bobbin case itself.
  26. Kevlar Thread Questions

    Beat ya to it! I've tried the surgeon's knot on a short length of the thread already, and that is holding. Look it up on Google, it is basically a reef knot with an extra turn . You can see I go backpacking; I've been using that on nylon guylines & cord for years and it works well enough Thanks for the advice though
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