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  2. Thanks, Sofaspud.
  3. Today
  4. Although the thickness you want to sew can help, knowing the types of product would be better and how far your budget can go. There are just to many machines suitable for various applications and sometimes no one machine can do the job either. I regularly use 6 different types in my production and have many more not so useful past purchased ones in storage.Knowing as close as possible to what you are wanting to make and getting the right advice here can save a lot of $$$. Regards Brian.
  5. Wow, I've been considering an XCarve or similar maker based CNC and I think you've just given me a fantastic reason - Thank you
  6. With my 29K71 I´m very very close to 5SPI but when I make 20 stitches (21 holes) and measure I´m a bit below 5SPI. I´m very very please with this result! Investing in a new feed motion BCL is worth every cent. @ Oldtimer - when you buy a new BCL you nowadays find them for "more modern" 29K71 /29K73 and the like and they will fit your earlier 29K (29K1, 29K3, 29K4, 29K33 and so forth) model too when you modify them a little bit. I had to grind down some spots but that was no big deal. Do not buy used BCL only because some one sells it for exactly your machine model since they are (most likely) a bit worn already. When the BCL is new the round tip has approx 5mm in diameter
  7. C.S. Osborne makes this self-centering set: http://www.csosborne.com/NOK156T.HTM
  8. I have been recommended to buy a quality swivel knife and a few different blades in different configurations. My local store carries a swivel knife, that's ONE SWIVEL KNIFE, and no brand marked on it! Take it or leave it! ... uhhh I will leave it there thanx! Does anybody have a good swivel for sale in Australia and blades to go with it, or a knife for sale that can be posted to Australia? Kindest regards Brian
  9. I think by raising it as I have done the outer spring has less tension on it and the inner spring then allows more of an adjustment. As I did this for wallet type work I would say if you wanted it to do heavier type work you would only take the sleeve up 1/4"(6mm).In the location I have this one the adjustment bolt does not feel to touch the inner spring until about 3/4 way down. As for my 335.... its staying in the sin bin.The Adler 69 as Uwe pointed out has a more logical adjustment system and I only every use that when I want to do thick bag handles and such. The 331 does most things just right, It's just a shame they stopped making them.
  10. Hello guys. This is Jun from youtube channel "leathertoolz" (youtube.com/leathertoolz) I recently bought this amazing edger from China and wanted to show you guys how thin this edger cuts. it has thinner mouth than Ron's edger. so it can edge even really thin leather. see the picture below and check out my review video on them https://youtu.be/iz9I7guJZ9M
  11. I saw an old video the guy was using a hole punch with a center poking out so you could get it set in the right spot. It was over 1/4" so those a hard to line up. Does anybody know if there are any on the market today? Thanks
  12. . Well, I'm prepared to give it a good home where it will be appreciated and let it see the light of day! Anyhow, I got curious and just had a closer look at mine. The outer spring is fixed and is non-adjustable, the inner spring provides the adjustment (not that it seems to make much difference in the normal setup). The mod you did, however, can allow the inner spring to have more effect. By raising that "sleeve" it reduces the tension applied by the inner spring when the adjusting screw is all the way out so when you adjust the top screw it should have more effect. Of course, to get the best out of it an awfully long screw will be needed . Seeing that I haven't really been able to find a screw with the right thread size I might run a tap through to use a more standard size and then make a decent adjuster, now that I know how it works.
  13. I'd talk to Bruce Johnson and see what he has in the shop. I have a full set of the vintage #147 and they are better than any of the new ones for sure
  14. Turns out I need to replace the hook. The left screw of the pair on the hook is damaged and doesn't tighten/loosen anymore leave the bobbin thread tension too loose. Is it possible to change the hook only? Or do I need to order the hook & base? Cheers!
  15. If you want detailed plans I have them listed on etsy. They are for a folding stitching horse with the clamp which can be operated in several ways, materials list is supplied. About 40 photos of every step is included. It is a PDF downloadable file found at https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/515597211/stitching-pony-and-stitching-horse-plans. I hope this helps. Iden
  16. Nice looking holster, fantastic edges!
  17. For someone like me who has a Dremel tool but no drill press, the little burnisher is the best tool for the job and, as many others have said, I don't think it is overpriced for the quality of product and usefulness of it. Never assume no one will want something you make. If you make it well, they will buy. :-)
  18. It deserves it. It's got one foot tooo many for my liking..
  19. If you shave the wool you still have to remove the leather. An old guy taught me to use either an old style loop blade compass groover or even better - an old free hand stitch groover/patent leather tool/gum tool. Run it over the top stitches to cut them off or severely weaken them. It won't work with a hole int eh bar type groover, the hole will pack up. pull on the woolskin underneath and almost all of the tags will pull through. Clean fast job with little or no individual stitch picking. Rubber cemented skirts should peel right off. If they are contact cemented, sometimes a little heat from a hair dryer or fast fanning with a low setting on a heat gun will warm and soften the bond and the woolskin will pull free.
  20. Poor little machine, all neglected and lonely in the dim dark recesses of that storage container.
  21. I bought a Singer 29k71 that only had short stitches. After pulling the head apart I found that the feed motion crank had a worn down puck. Back in the 1980s I would have just brazed on some bronze rod and reshaped that puck. This time I went on eBay and bought a new aftermarket replacement part. After installing it and using Emory cloth to get the best fit without binding in 360 degrees, I instantly got 5 stitches per inch.
  22. Here's the pics of the 335 with the sleeve pulled up about 3/8". This still allows the screw when wound down to come into play and have some meaning I guess. Note the sleeve is no longer visible from inside against the outer spring. Sorry the pics are not the best, it is quite dark down the back in that container.
  23. this was done on a HAAS VF2 vertical mill. I learned a lot on it. I broke my 1/16" bit. after some adjustment to feed/speed/step over I finished out with a 1/32" and no breakage. I have access to a HAAS at our local makerspace. unfortunately they don't have a 4th axis attachment so I'll be doing that stuff for the embossing rolls on my home router mill. cheers!
  24. Thanks Ron! I appreciate your advice. Do you have any opinion on using electric animal shears to shave the wool? Does anybody do this?
  25. and a cool story to go with it !
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