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  1. Today
  2. Cape falcon

    My fingers hurt just watching that! Well done!
  3. Flat backed for a GP-100

    My Taurus 605 that I carry in a botched J frame holster has held up pretty well retention wise. It is tougher to get it right than a semi auto. I got one too tight the other week and had to really work the holster to get it where I wanted it after it was stitched up. If you mold with the revolver on a table you tend to get a looser holster. If you have the grip off the edge of the table it will be a tighter mold because it makes less room. I got one way too tight for a Gp100 and almost had to remake it. But after leaving the mold in a couple days and wetting it around the trigger guard I got it worked out.
  4. Very thin leather used to wrap peices?

    watched his video. Thanks.
  5. And your holster looks pretty nice too, forgot to mention while I was commenting on dye! Any issues on retention long term? I had been wondering about how pancakes fare for revolvers... they seem to have less for the holster to "grip" onto than the semi autos... YinTx
  6. Thanks everyone. Uwe, I went through the maximum foot height adjustment again but it was already there. The foot I'm using is for edging, it has a spring and a small edge guide. It's relatively long front-to-back so the "heel" is pretty far back from the needle. It looks like this problem would be unavoidable with this design. For now I found a technique that seems to work. On the last stitch through 3 layers I stop needle-down, loosen the tension a full turn, run 3-4 stitches so the heel of the foot is clear of the 3 layers, then re-tighten tension a full turn and continue on. I want to get more practice to make sure it's consistent but it's worked for about 10 tests. And I have an extra edging foot that I will try to grind away the heel some and see if that helps. Finally I'm looking at other edge guides, though I really like how this one works otherwise. Thanks again!
  7. I did this project with Angelus dye, as you can see despite my efforts, still blotchy. I think it is more the leather than the dye...or possibly just me... or me and the leather... but I don't think I'd pin it on the dye at this point... YinTx
  8. Dude, post some pics if you get the chance. I'm interested to see how it is coming along. I'm glad something workable at least, is coming back. Sounded like you put some good effort into it and it sure would have sucked to have to see you scrap it.
  9. DISASTER - A couple of days back I said I'm off to try a wallet now. Did a bit of grinding of the needle plate (about 2mm) to enable getting in a bit closer. Note: I like to stitch across the bridge section when I can as I hate stopping and starting, tying off etc. It went pretty well except I did not glue the liner in myself and although the machine did the stitching well enough the result means I'm going to have to pull it all out and start again.
  10. How I make Wedding Ring Boxes

    Thank you Brian and I must say I am most envious of your quality control K9.... he looks like a great shop companion.
  11. walking cane cove

    Very neat. I like that
  12. Most popular gun and holster?

    Thanks malabar. Looks like a good excuse for me to go buy me a 1911. ;-)
  13. Yesterday
  14. Rivet Press

    I using 104 tubular rivets.
  15. How I make Wedding Ring Boxes

    Thanks Chuck. I hope that the video is going to be better. Please have a look at Sally's site as her pictures leave mine for dead I think. I'm thinking of making up a watch box version along a similar construction but I might have to find me an ideal marketer for that first. Ahh so many ideas and so little time....Brian
  16. How I make Wedding Ring Boxes

    These are very beautiful Brian. I've enjoyed reading every step. I marvel at how you are able to create whatever tools you need to accomplish a task. Thanks for sharing. Chuck
  17. Since I've started keeping records of such things... -- I've made about 75 holsters for the 1911and its variants -- 60 holsters for the Sig P938. -- I've made 34 holsters for the G-19 -- 21 for the G-17 -- 17 for the G-43 -- 15 for the P226/220 -- 14 for the G-42 -- 12 for J-frames ( I think it should be more but my records say not)
  18. walking cane cove

    3 pics of a walking cane cover with a strap.
  19. How I make Wedding Ring Boxes

    Now I make up the strip for the lid section in a similar method to the bottom section after the contact glue is dry enough. After the ring is made ready I push this piece into the cup and then follow this with another tool to press down on the outer edges of the ring. I hope you have enjoyed learning how these ring boxes are made so far and I must mention the customer I make this product for as she is a wonderful young lady named Sally and I can assure you she strives to have all of her products made to the highest possible standard and give her customers a truly wonderful service. Here is the link and please take a look. . http://www.amonie.com.au/?v=6cc98ba2045f Sally has assured me that if you mention seeing this post on Leatherworker.net she will supply it FREE of freight charges. There is one more section to add to this and that is where I do the monogramming and that is also done for you with No extra Charge.
  20. I've never had much luck with Tanners Bond Cement available now. The old stuff use to work great. When they changed it up so it was EPA compliant it went to crap in my opinion. My go to for a permanent bond leather to leather is barges cement..toxic as hell with its fumes so make sure you have ventilation but it works great. if your gluing flesh side to fleah side just follow the directions. If your gluing to a finished side either sand it a bit like others have said or just scruff up the finished surface. I keep half a hack saw blade on the bench for this. A couple of quick rubs back and forth over the area you want to glue and your good to go. In my experience if you try to separate pieces glued with barge's you will rip the leather before you break the bond of the glue.
  21. JUKI LS-321

    BUMP! Make me an offer! I'm not in a hurry to sell this, but throw me a number.
  22. @Uwe Thats a crying shame mate. I think 90% of the work I do on this machine would be done on this dog foot and throat plate, be that I have been grinding the plate some to suit my purposes. Its now shorter on the left side to enable closer in work. Getting all effeminate about whether on some machines only one hole lines up is a sad loss to the limitations this machine suffers without it. I think these 2 pieces could be ordered separately without the other feet as well. Having the other 2 feet is not that big an issue as I am always chopping up feet to suit some purpose or other. They would work quite well for the intended purpose but a few adjustments would have to be done when changing from 1 foot set to another and I get too pushed for time to bother with that generally. Last time I checked this post it has had over 700 views so I think it is of of interest to some here on LW if not more in the WW. If you really don't want to further re stock, let me know as I will pursue it further. Thank you for your help in this to me so far. Kind regards Brian
  23. Pfaff 145 h4 and New Tech servo motor

    Well done, sounds like a good buy. The motor "manual" - don't bother searching as I doubt you'll find one, most of these "manuals" seem to be just a few pages of "Chinglish" that usually takes a bit of deciphering. If it's working it will pay to leave the settings alone for now. I use a head magnifier whenever I'm working on a machine (old eyes and it's much better than my glasses!). IF you decide to dismantle anything with small screws be very careful about NOT losing the screws. The fact that you've got it sewing straight off is very good, as Uwe said use it and become familiar with it before trying to make any changes.
  24. Bracelets

    Was thinking the same thing
  25. Singer 111W155 Rehab

    Well done. The interaction of the bits can be a bit daunting at first, but once you've worked it out it's a great feeling of achievement!
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