Holster Dye procedure

[rccolt45]

Hey guys,

I have started to get pretty good at making holsters but am still not happy with the dying process.

I have mainly stayed with Tandy dye the eco all in one stuff.

I am not happy with the results. Its very streakie. Is it the leather or the process. right now I am basicly painting it on as it comes from the bottle with a foam brush. What am I doing wrong?

also should I start thinking about a spray set up?

any advice on how to do ti and what to use would be great.

[dickf]

I think most of your issue is the dye. I really like the Angelus line of dyes, and find that I haven't used anything more superior to them. I dip dye my holsters, and finish up with an airbrush if needed (usually the browns - never the black).

[rccolt45]

I think most of your issue is the dye. I really like the Angelus line of dyes, and find that I haven't used anything more superior to them. I dip dye my holsters, and finish up with an airbrush if needed (usually the browns - never the black).

When you say finish up with an air brush - could you please describe that prcodue to me? I looked at your web site and your stuff look just great. I wish I could get my finishs like that.

thanks Rob

[dickf]

I dip each piece right before stitching. If it's black, it gets sloshed around on either side a few times, then I let it sit overnight to dry completely. If it's brown, I do the same, but sometimes get some lighter areas where the dye didn't penetrate as well. So, to even everything out, I load the airbrush with the same color and spray it evenly to get the desired tone with no light or dark spots. After the holster is molded and burnished, I use the airbrush again to apply a final topcoat. I like resolene, but will likely look into Angelus' acrylic sealer down the road. I think the resolene is too tacky at full strength, and if you have several pieces to do, can gum up the airbrush in a hurry. I cut it with some warm water and force dry it immediately with a hairdryer. Mineral spirits keep the nozzle clean after the topcoat

Good luck!

[rccolt45]

I dip each piece right before stitching. If it's black, it gets sloshed around on either side a few times, then I let it sit overnight to dry completely. If it's brown, I do the same, but sometimes get some lighter areas where the dye didn't penetrate as well. So, to even everything out, I load the airbrush with the same color and spray it evenly to get the desired tone with no light or dark spots. After the holster is molded and burnished, I use the airbrush again to apply a final topcoat. I like resolene, but will likely look into Angelus' acrylic sealer down the road. I think the resolene is too tacky at full strength, and if you have several pieces to do, can gum up the airbrush in a hurry. I cut it with some warm water and force dry it immediately with a hairdryer. Mineral spirits keep the nozzle clean after the topcoat

Good luck!

Thanks such much I will give it a try ASAP.

[Lobo]

I also dip-dye my work, but do so after forming and drying. I'm using Feibings spirit-based dyes, which I dilute with isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol dries completely in a couple of hours, but I find it best to allow each piece to sit for 24 hours before proceeding to the next step in the finishing process (for me, that involves neatsfoot oil, which noticably darkens most dyes so experimentation is necessary to get the desired results).

[Dwight]

Like Lobo, . . . I like Feibings dyes also, . . . and usually dip dye, . . . after the piece is more or less completely made, . . . stitched, . . . formed, . . . etc. But I have been known to grab a wool dauber and just daub the thing until it fairly well drips dye, . . . I do that mostly on one custom color I like, . . . I call it sunburst.

My finish is Resolene, . . . mixed 50/50 with tap water. I brush it on with a camel hair brush or a foam brush, . . . and usually let it dry in the sun or near the wood stove (it all depends on the season). I really like the finish it gives when it is brushed on.

I worked in a paint plant for 30 years, . . . could not care less if I ever saw another spray gun of any kind, . . . plus I do most of my work inside my house, . . . and my wife would not be happy with some kind of overspray leaking out of my work area into her kitchen. That is why I have developed ways around spraying anything.

May God bless,

Dwight

[River]

Today i found a dye,but the seller say me that in the long term it bleed, how can i prevent that?

[JeffGC]

I also dip-dye my work, but do so after forming and drying. I'm using Feibings spirit-based dyes, which I dilute with isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol dries completely in a couple of hours, but I find it best to allow each piece to sit for 24 hours before proceeding to the next step in the finishing process (for me, that involves neatsfoot oil, which noticably darkens most dyes so experimentation is necessary to get the desired results).

Lobo - When dip dying, how long do you leave the holster in the dye?

[Lobo]

Lobo - When dip dying, how long do you leave the holster in the dye?

I use buckets with lids (to prevent evaporation between uses). I immerse each item in the dye solution for about 5 seconds, then remove it to a drying rack. Too long in the solution and your forming work is undone for you.

After a half-hour or so they have dried to a point where they can be handled. If the color saturation is not complete (frequent with black) you can repeat the procedure.

The following day I apply neatsfoot oil, then rub briskly with an old towel to remove excess dye from the surface that has not penetrated. This minimizes color rub-off. This is followed by final edge burnishing, then final finishes and surface sealant.