digdug18 Report post Posted February 2, 2013 I'm having a problem when cutting patterns I make from paper, or even when I trace that pattern onto leather with a pen. I'm finding that I don't cut like patterns, which is a problem when it comes to then cutting a grove to stich into on each side. I know one problem is my work area, I need a larger area to lay out the leather on, and to then cut on as well. I'm currently doing it on a book sized area, where as the leather I'm cutting the piece off of is 4-5 times as large. Though I'm sure more experienced people can off me some good tips or suggestions on how they make matched pairs of items. Currently I'm trying to make a nice knife sheath, using a 3 piece design, the top, bottom and middle layer being all like pairs. My thought process being that if I get good at doing sheaths, and cutting out like patterns, I can scale it up to larger projects. Suggestions, Tips? Videos? Andrew Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted February 2, 2013 I don't like using paper for that reason, it moves too easily. Make it out of cereal box cardboard and tape it to the back side of the leather to trace it. Use the same template for both sides. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesmith648 Report post Posted February 2, 2013 also as far as work area.......If it is too big....move to the floor Moving the piece around to get it to work is going to cause problems.....JMHO Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digdug18 Report post Posted February 3, 2013 Good suggestion on the cardboard, I'll try that next. As for the floor, I have a 2 year old around me most of the day, so cutting on the floor is a no no.. I will be picking up a self healing cutting mat so that the leather will slide around less. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jax Report post Posted February 3, 2013 cant you mark out on the floor then move to a more suitable place to do your cutting? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted February 3, 2013 All good suggestions, and they will help you be much more accurate. One thing I do is sand the edges on a bench sander after gluing them together. That will remove any minor differences in the layers. Then I edge bevel and burnish the edges, it accomplishes a couple of things, 1) make the edges even and matched, 2) remove any residual glue from the edges, 3) then I sew and the stitches are a uniform distance from the edge, front and back. It can be done by hand sanding as well, I use the bench sander to save time. Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digdug18 Report post Posted February 3, 2013 All good suggestions, and they will help you be much more accurate. One thing I do is sand the edges on a bench sander after gluing them together. That will remove any minor differences in the layers. Then I edge bevel and burnish the edges, it accomplishes a couple of things, 1) make the edges even and matched, 2) remove any residual glue from the edges, 3) then I sew and the stitches are a uniform distance from the edge, front and back. It can be done by hand sanding as well, I use the bench sander to save time. Chief Agreed, but I'd prefer to have even pieces to start with. That way I don't need to sand them down to even them up. I think it all it coming down to my setup right now, I need to get my bench setup the way I want it, then go from there. Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted February 3, 2013 Sanding is almost always necessary. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted February 3, 2013 Sanding is almost always necessary. Agree, even if they're perfect, sanding is the step that removes glue residue, straightens imperfections, and sets the piece up for a real nice edge. Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted February 4, 2013 It's virtually impossible to get 2 pieces EXACTLY the same every time, so you're likely to end up with some sanding either way. When I'm cutting from my side of leather, I usually cut it out big (or even just cut out a section that will definitely fit it) and then take that to my table to trim up. When I'm making matched pieces, I will always cut one piece a hair bigger (1/8" to 1/4"). That way I can glue it up and trim them to match precisely. If you're worried about making too much waste from cutting big, remember that you should be doing dye tests on a piece of leather that's from the same area of the side you pulled your working piece from, so just use them for that and it's no longer a waste. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digdug18 Report post Posted February 4, 2013 I realize I'll need to sand to finish the edges, but if my 2 pieces are so far off that they need to be sanded every time, then I view that as me just rushing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hawkeye10 Report post Posted February 9, 2013 I realize I'll need to sand to finish the edges, but if my 2 pieces are so far off that they need to be sanded every time, then I view that as me just rushing. First let me say I am new to leather work and this is my first post. I have been reading and trying to learn. From what I can tell you seem to be against sanding your edges. From what I have learned from reading these post I don't see how you can not sand your edges. You say you might be rushing, so slow down and cut more accurate and you will have to sand less. That is my .02 from some one who knows little about leather working. Don Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
