Airbrush survey

[UKRay]

There are so many airbrushes and compressors on the market that it is very hard for a newbie like me to decide which one to go for. Help me guys - watcha got and how well does it work.

I need a mid-to-high range airbrush for dyes and finishes - would your setup work for me? What makes it good and what makes you mad about it? What would you rather have?

Ray

[MADMAX22]

I dont have one now but back in the day when I use to do airbrushing I loved my badger, badger has variouse levels of airbrushes but are pretty nice.

Theres a few brands badger, pasche, and Iwatas that I would consider if I was getting another one but Ive allways dealt with those three and they all have a very good following.

The standard double action badger that works pretty good is a the 150, get it as a kit and it will last a long time for ya but there are alot to choose from.

Biggest thing is make sure you compressor has a small tank and a filter, atleast the older compressors if you didnt have a tank would give you a pulsation which even if small would still cause issues with fine detail work. May not be the case anymore.

[CitizenKate]

I need a mid-to-high range airbrush for dyes and finishes - would your setup work for me? What makes it good and what makes you mad about it? What would you rather have?

It depends a little on what kind of spraying you want to do, Ray. If you're just going to spray on washes or wide patterns (like you would if you were shading the edges of a piece of leather), a single-action sprayer or siphon-feed double-action airbrush will probably do.

Single vs. Double Action:

Single-action is the cheapest, and easiest to operate - just point and shoot, and you can control the size of the spray pattern somewhat by varying the distance of the spray from your work. Double-action gives you more control of the spray as you're spraying, without having to stop spraying to make adjustments, but takes a little practice to get used to how the trigger works.

If you plan to do some really intricate airbrushing, a gravity-feed double-action airbrush will give you ultimate control, and allow you to go from a 3-inch spray pattern down to a spray the width of a pencil tip in one seamless action, but not without some practice and edumacation (i.e., book larnin').

Siphon feed vs gravity feed:

Siphon feed is very handy, because you can just swap out color cups to change colors. With gravity feed, you have to empty and clean the cup when changing colors, and sometimes have to also clean out the spray path before adding the next color. The trade-off there is convenience vs. control.

That being said, I have two sprayers. One is an el-cheapo single-action Harbor Freight special that I use for spraying on finishes. Excellent way to put on finish! Super hassle-free. My other is a Badger double-action gravity feed, which I've used on hundreds of projects since 2003. I do all kinds of airbrushing with it, so the versatility is great. But changing colors is a bit of a hassle at times, so if you don't need to be able to spray fine lines, do yourself a favor and get a siphon feed if you go with double-action.

I don't usually recommend one brand or another. I've tried Paasche, Iwata, and Badger, and they're all fine. I do like the Iwata, but have never liked it enough to pay the high price for it.

My compressor is just a plain, old 135psi shop compressor I picked up on sale at the local Sears store for $75, with a moisture trap installed. If you don't like a noisy compressor, that's the advantage of paying more for one that is designed for airbrushing. They are quite a bit more expensive, though. Aside from that, air is air, and as far as driving an airbrush, one source of air is like any other.

Hope this helps... Can you tell us a little more about what you're interested in doing?

Kate

[cem]

I use an Aztek seen here http://www.testors.com/product/136949/A7778/_/Ultimate_Metal_Airbrush_Set its both a single & double action and siphon & gravity feed. It works a bit different though in that the needle is built into the nozzle which you change for different spray sizes. I originally bought it for spraying my stop motion animation puppets which were made of silicone and you could only use a silicone paint mixture to paint them with.

The other airbrush I had a cheap badger I think used to clog up with the mixture but the Aztec was fine I've only dragged it out once for leatherwork as I don't have the room to set up it all the time at the moment. But I was happy with how it performed with leather and will be using it more often once I've got a dedicated work room. One thing I like about it is it flushes colour really quickly as the only place the dye can go is through the nozzle the rest of it is sealed off.

They do two versions of the one I have a resin and a metal one, I did have the resin one to begin with but found it too light and the balance would be thrown off when you plugged in the siphon bottles so I sold that and got the metal one, which is alot nicer to hold.

It is a bit different to what others are using here but will give you something else to look at.

I didn't buy it from Testors though I got mine from http://www.micromark.com/AZTEK-METAL-AIRBRUSH-SET,8271.html

Cheers,

Clair

[UKRay]

Thanks for your contribution Max and Clair. Most useful especially the bit about balance - I hadn't even considered that.

Kate, It took me a while to work out what I want to achieve, but here goes:

• I want to be able to spray an even 'wash' of colour onto veg tan leather,
  
• I then want to be able to add a dark border that gradually fades to the base colour (mainly on bags, pouches and game boards)
  
• I want to spray masks with exciting colours (okay, I know that one is a bit woolly but think about Leatheroo's amazing airbrushed masks and you will quickly understand what I mean).
  
• I want to get that level of 'transparency' you can't achieve using a rag or sponge to apply dye.
  

Having done all that I'd like to apply finish to my projects - although I don't know which finishes work best with an airbrush.

I did wonder if a compressor that could have two brushes connected at the same time might be a good time saver... but what do I know? Does anyone do this?

Ray

[Hilly]

Hi Ray.

I've been using this Iwata gravity feed for years. I used to do a lot of airbrushing on bikes, and before that, I dabbled in some portraiture. It's a great little airbrush for extrememely fine detail. It would work really well for stuff like game boards and small items. For larger pieces, and for general dying on medium to larger projects, I use an HVLP gun. I find it makes short work of dying larger pieces, such as cases and bags, albums, etc. It sprays evenly, without as much overspray as a normal big spray gun, and you can spray smallish amounts of dye. You can get HVLP guns in siphon or gravity feed.

As with any airbrush, I ALWAYS have at least one, and usually two moisture traps on the air line. It can sure ruin your day when a big spit of water comes shooting out of the end of your brush, and goobers up your paint/dye job! I also use a good quality regulator on the air line.

Now that I think of it, I have about 100 bottles of Medea artist paints that might work well on leather... Gonna have to try them out since they aren't doing any good sitting in a container....

[CitizenKate]

Kate, It took me a while to work out what I want to achieve, but here goes:

• I want to be able to spray an even 'wash' of colour onto veg tan leather,

• I then want to be able to add a dark border that gradually fades to the base colour (mainly on bags, pouches and game boards)

• I want to spray masks with exciting colours (okay, I know that one is a bit woolly but think about Leatheroo's amazing airbrushed masks and you will quickly understand what I mean).

• I want to get that level of 'transparency' you can't achieve using a rag or sponge to apply dye.

There are numerous topics where 'Roo has discussed her airbrushes of choice.

...I use an Iwata HP plus...love.love.love it..

I have had a few airbrushes over the years but this is my favorite. It has fantastic control..from wide spray to very fine lines.. For covering a large area i use a paasche VL..great for bigger jobs but doesnt have the fine control of the Iwata.

Having done all that I'd like to apply finish to my projects - although I don't know which finishes work best with an airbrush.

I have sprayed all types of acrylic finishes (the *shenes and Resolene) and liquid wax finishes (Bee-Natural is my favorite). Tan-kote would probably work, but I haven't had a chance to test that theory. It is a little heavier than the other finishes.

I did wonder if a compressor that could have two brushes connected at the same time might be a good time saver... but what do I know? Does anyone do this?

I think there is an attachment that lets you split your air hose between two air tools. Or you can just fit your hose with a quick-coupler, and you can quickly change between different air tools.

Also, don't forget to get a respirator, and consider ventilation in your work space. You do not want to be breathing the overspray.

Kate

[UKRay]

I do appreciate all your help, people. And thanks for puling all those quotes together and answering them all too, Kate - wish I knew how to do that!

Okay - it looks like a double action, syphon feed brush and a collection of 2oz paint/stain pots will sort me out. I'll also need a compressor, airline and some filters - is there anything I've forgotten? What size needle do I need?

I do like the look of the Iwata brushes and although they aren't the cheapest, they come with a healthy set of recommendations. The problem is that there doesn't seem to be any simple way of understanding the maker's coding. This seems like a fairly standard problem with lots of airbrush manufacturers. I suspect it is because, as a beginner, I haven't learned airbrush language yet.

The Iwata HP-BC Plus airbrush seems to fit my needs (what do you think?) but I've also noticed some huge price discrepancies. One supplier on eBay is almost half the price of the others. Okay they are selling from Macau, but is this likely to be a problem if the goods are branded?

Ray

[UKRay]

How long does the compressor hose need to be - or is this only obvious when you have ordered a hose that is too short?

Ray

[ks1911]

How long does the compressor hose need to be - or is this only obvious when you have ordered a hose that is too short?

Ray

Ray, that about sums up the hose length question. Really it all depends on how far away you want to get from the compressor.

I'm a real newbie with airbrushes, but I bought an Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS after doing quite abit research online. I really like the siphon feed which lets you just change out the bottles. The airbrush itself is very smooth operating and has some weight to it, which just feels nice to me. I don't think you can really go wrong with an Iwata or for that matter a Badger or Paasche.

Edited November 5, 2009 by ks1911

[Gorilla]

Iwatas are the best airbrushes hands down, but may be more than you need for leather. All depends on your usage. I have been airbrushing on canvas regularly for about 16 years. I made the switch to Iwatas 14 years ago after my first couple of brushes fell apart. To this day I still use the original Iwatas. They are a little more up front, but they are worth every penny.

Edited November 9, 2009 by Gorilla

[mwinters]

On the same topic. I'm looking at compressors for airbrushes. How much horse power should I be looking at and what features/accessories are required for airbrushing?

[UKRay]

On the same topic. I'm looking at compressors for airbrushes. How much horse power should I be looking at and what features/accessories are required for airbrushing?

Good question!

I've been looking at Iwata compressors too and don't even know what questions to ask to find the one I need.

What do I need to know about compressors guys?

Ray

[Hilly]

Are you planning on using it exclusively for spraying dyes, or do you want one that's more versatile? If all you're doing is using it for running an airbrush, I'd invest in one of those silent compressors. You can park it right next to you, and not need a mile of hose, or have to listen to a noisy compressor.

[UKRay]

Are you planning on using it exclusively for spraying dyes, or do you want one that's more versatile? If all you're doing is using it for running an airbrush, I'd invest in one of those silent compressors. You can park it right next to you, and not need a mile of hose, or have to listen to a noisy compressor.

I'd just want it for spraying dyes, Hilly. but there are so many different ones... and some seem specially made for tanning salons - and I don't think they mean leather LOL!

The Iwata Studio Power Jet Pro Professional Compressor seems like a great compressor but may be total overkill for my needs - it is certainly expensive!

Ray

[MBOGO]

I've never worked with the Iwata, but know it is a first rate graphic arts setup rated for working with inks and such. I've used various brands and types and made mistakes since the early '80's, and for ease of use I found the Aztek a great compromise, no needles to bend (the needle is in a self contained tip), ease of use, easy maintence, reasonable cost.

Many moons ago I made a Franken-fitting on the end of my air regulator to run two airbrushes at once, with an air cut-off valve if I'm only using one during that shooting session.

As for compressors, I've always used one with a tank, wether is had a 25 gallon or a five gallon tank, with an inline moisture trap and regulator. I know some of the airbrush specific compressors are using silent moters, and are less of a nuisance when they run. Right now I've got an old Craftsman with a five gallon tank, and if Working semi-stedy it kicks over maybe every hour.

[UKRay]

As I've never had call to use any kind of spraying equipment I didn't think about the cylinder thing...

Help me to understand: the compressor fills the tank with compressed air which you draw off through the airbrush. Is there some kind of regulator or demand valve which makes sure the air pressure you receive at the airbrush end stays constant?

I guess the amount of compressed air you use is relatively small and if you have a large pressurised cylinder the tiny amount you use will hardly alter the pressure - is this the case?

Given that both of the above are true, surely the best sort of compressor is one that has a large cylinder which will only need filling occasionally? I have seen all kinds of air-brush compressors but most seem to be very small units which have tiny cylinders. Why is this?

I have only ever heard automotive type compressors for industrial spray booths - these seem very noisy. I guess the smaller 'silent' type are really much quieter than that. Is 'silent' just marketing speak for 'quieter'.

Ray

[MBOGO]

Ray,

I will stumble through answering this, you seem to have a good understanding of the concept, and I don't want to make you think it is more complicated than it is. The tank is filled by the bellows (no idea if that is the proper term) to a predetermined pressure, for the sake of conversation lets say 120 psi (pounds per square inch). When that pressure drops below a predetermined level, lets say 90 psi, a switch kicks the motor, which refills the tank, and then the motor stops running. Some of the smaller airbush specific compressors I have seen were a direct bellow that had to run constantly, and some from my understanding would give the pulsating the madmax refered to.

Normally you run an airbrush between 15-40 psi depending on what you are shooting, and the effects you want, in my humble experience. Some compressors have a regulator at the hose out point. My setup due to neccity when starting (which I am still using), was a hose to my regulator, which directly fed my airbrush hoses. In hindsight, I like this because the regulator could be adjusted or fine tuned on the fly, and I wasn't bound to the compressor. Some moisture traps have a regulator built in, but these pretty much have to be mounted.

The Iwata Studio Power Jet Pro Professional Compressor, has all these bells and whistles contained. The airbrush compressors of this type seem to have a refrigerator type motor, and are silent, portable, and self contained, without having to mount thing's to walls (moisture traps, ect). If you have the space and need (car tires, HVLP sprayer for large projects, air tools, high production level) a larger tank is very useful, and the compressor won't be running constantly.

Depending on the space you have available, your resources(cash flow), and needs (portability, amount of output, living in an apartment with thin walls and not wanting to anger the neibhors at 3AM) should determine your choice. You can easily set up a compressor for less than $200 US, http://www.sears.com/shc/s/s_10153_12605_Tools_Air+Compressors+%26+Air+Tools_View+All?sbv=Craftsman&sbf=Brand . It is what you prefer. The compressor that I'm using for airbrushing was given to me, and more than works.

I grew up around an auto body guy, and got my first airbush in 7th grade, plugged into my fathers compressor to paint model airplanes (mostly WWII and Vietnam era camoflage). Since then I have done some airbushing on about anything that could be painted, died, or inked. I am not the best nor claim to be, these are just my experiences, though, I have made some money on it, and done some work I was more than happy with. There is a learning curve to airbrushing, there is good info to be had to help you out. Practice, and have fun.

Marc

Edited November 15, 2009 by MBOGO

[OdinUK]

Hi Ray,

I recently got one of these from RDG tools, its about £74!!!:

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/info%5f1622%2ehtml

The compressor is great for the price and I was suprised to get 2 air brushes for the price, I assumed they would be so cheap they would be useless but they are ok to get started with. When Ive learnt how to use them I'll get an Iwata.

[JLSleather]

I use the Paasche VL .... actually, TWO of them. It's a fairly inexpensive, yet broad range toy. Three sizes of tips you can use, though for these spirit based dyes I never use the largest (#5) tip. There are more precise brushes, but this is certainly "fine" enough for this work. New for about $65 US, and parts for it are EVERYWHERE.

Attach that with a 10' hose (3.05 m for our friends across the water). I like 10' just because I can use an in-line moisture trap and hang it on the edge of the bench when painting (not have it right under the brush adding to the weight of the tool).

And attach that to just about any compressor with a tank and regulator. Mine is a table-top model that makes almost no sound. 1/5 HP with a 1-gallon tank, which is more than enough for spirit dyes . It's supposed to blow 60 lbs, but these dyes only require about 20 lbs (max).

They make a VJR ("Junior) which still big enough, but has a gravity feed cup on top that doesn't suit me personally (I like to tip the brush for comfort). And the "AB" model is a finer detail brush but I think not worth the added cost (about triple, and makes a line you need glasses to see).

After all that long-winded stuff, here's MY plan... TWO VL models, 1 with a "1" tip and 1 with a "3" tip. Use the VL, let's me connect a 1-oz siphon bottle to cover large areas, or use the metal color cup when I'm just doing wallets/belts. Compressor that takes almost no room, makes almost no noise, and doesn't "puke" water into my dyes at the wrong time (which is EVER).

DISCLAIMER: The VL will spray acrylics, but will take closer to 40 lbs of air.

Oh, yeah ... the tank is for CONSTANT pressure. Without the tank, you're waiting for the compressor to MAKE the air. With the tank, you're using air that's already compressed and ready to be CONSISTENT.

Edited January 11, 2010 by JLSleather

[BearMan]

Hi Ray,

I just got in an airbrush, to replace an old one I had. It's a HF # 95810. It's a Double action, with seals that will stand up to use with Lacquers, Solvents, & Acrylics. Right out of the box, it worked perfect. After using it on a book cover project, I took it apart to clean it. I found no residue to clean! After I get done sraying, I always flush it with rubbing alcohol. It would appear, that all the holes the color goes through, are smooth with no burs to trap color particles. Over all,,, I'm very impressed. It seems to be as good,,, or maybe better than a Paasche, double action airbrush I borrowed from a friend. For the price, I don't think You can beat it!! I got the airbrush, & a 10 foot braided hose, & with shipping it was $35.00. I hope this helps,,, Ed the"BearMan"

[MBOGO]

I was in Harbor freight a couple of weeks ago and took apart one of their double action airbrushes, and for the price it seems like a steal. As far as parts go, I think you'd have to buy another. I think it was 12 or 14 U.S. on sale. They also had their single action copy of the passche H on sale, but none in stock, on sale for 6 or 8 dollars U.S., I was thinking about picking one of them up to see if the parts were interchangable.

[Des804]

I just bought the Deluxe Airbrush which I was told was double action from Harbour Freight today... I got a free compressor from a guy who used the cheaper Harbour Freight Airbrush.. My question is can you spray acrylic Paint out of them thinned down and if so what do you thin it with, Denatured alcohol?

[MBOGO]

I just bought the Deluxe Airbrush which I was told was double action from Harbour Freight today... I got a free compressor from a guy who used the cheaper Harbour Freight Airbrush.. My question is can you spray acrylic Paint out of them thinned down and if so what do you thin it with, Denatured alcohol?

You want to use something like rubbing alcohol. A cheap way to go is to try the blue windshield wiper solvent, test it out on some scrap first. You are going to want to mix the paint in a seperate container, and strain it before putting it in the airbrush cup (old panty hose work well). Try the paint thinned to a consistancy of about milk.

[Des804]

so you can us Acrylics then ? thanks.. I need to talk to someone about actually using an airbrush the thing doesnt come with instructions on using the tool itself adjusting this or that.. what is the piece that looks like a long needle. what exactly is the metal cup for etc etc.