First Holster Project- Iwb

[Nooj]

Hi everyone-

I've been looking around and reading from all the wonderful members here for several months. I recently began my first holster project- an IWB holster for my Taurus 45. I've always been interested in leatherworking, and my need for holsters is what finally drew me into doing it.

There are several things I could've and perhaps should've done different thus far; But, I'm somewhat pleased with what I've done so far. I fudged out the pattern on the backside of some cardboard (miller high life, no less), and have stitched and wet formed it so far. Tomorrow I hope to dye it. I'll post pics as I progress and for critique :-) I know there are many things that I can improve on... A lot of which I've noticed- but perhaps the experienced eyes here can point out things I may have missed to help me improve.

Glad to be here. Glad to be able to do this. All glory be to God!

Nooj

[Big O]

I'm not very experienced. I'm up to ten holsters now, and before I found this forum, most of what I'd learned came from my OWN mistakes. I'm seeing two possible practical problems here with that GORGEOUS holster of yours:

1. It looks like there might not be quite enough open space (space not occupied by leather) at the rear of the trigger guard for you to get a solid grip on the pistol in order to draw it.

2. It doesn't look like you took the travel path of the front sight into consideration when molding. (but the green tape suggests that I could be wrong about that)

Still looks better than my first 5 or 6 holsters, for sure, and the stitching looks better than ANY of mine.

[Reaper]

Ditto with Big-O, you should have enough clearence at the trigger guard so that you can get a firm grip with using atleast your middel and ring fingerLooks very nice and should be one you have to turn down offers on at the ranger all the time!

ps: I just took a second look and noticed that the back flap actually is between you thumb/heal of thumb and the gun. In a crisis situation when fine motor skills are flying out the door, there could possibly be a snag on presenting the weapon.

"Left hand flashes to your right side and snatches your cover shirt clear as your right hand drops and you grasp the weapon and you actually have locked your weapon into the holster because the flap is binding between the back side of the grip and you thumb."

just a thought...

Edited September 14, 2010 by Reaper

[Nooj]

Thanks for the complements and constructive criticism! I certainly see plenty of things to improve on.

You're both correct about the coverage around the grip and rear of the trigger guard. I'll more than likely trim it to allow for a better grip before I dye it and finish the edges.

Yes, the green tape is holding the perfectly good pencil I carved up to use as my front sight channel. The pistol shifted sometime during the forming, and isn't quite centered (rear sight is a little off to one side, and the muzzle end is slightly canted as well), so maybe that is what gave the illusion of having no front sight channel.

Thanks for the input!!

Nooj

Edited September 14, 2010 by Nooj

[Nooj]

Well, I ruined it...

After spending quite a while airbrushing it to perfection (ok, maybe not perfection- it was my first time using an airbrush, and my first holster or leather project I've done) , I wasted all my efforts by trying to proceed with sealing it before the dye had cured. Now it's a muttled, tiger striped mess :-( Oh well- ya live, ya learn.

I did trim around the grip and trigger guard some, so that I could get a better grab on the pistol. I was almost pleased with the finish before I screwed it up, Grrr! I guess I'm still happy with it though- being a rooky, I guess I can't complain ;-)

I'll put up pics tomorrow.

Nooj

[gregintenn]

Hey...it's going to be hidden in your pants anyway, does the color matter that much?

[Reaper]

Dip dye it black?

[Bronson]

Most of the holsters I've ruined have been because I got impatient and tried to do something too soon or dry it too fast with a heat gun (do NOT do this).

Bronson

[Reaper]

Heat gun = cracks for you too?

Edited September 15, 2010 by Reaper

[katsass]

Just two cents and the ramblings of a grumpy old man..........the first thing I was to say is a lesson you have already learned......slow down. You have also learned a bit about your pattern and what to think about when in the design stage.......valuable lessons. I do think that your stitch line(s) along the trigger guard and on down seem to be a bit too far from the pistol. It appears to me that the holster will loosen up quite a bit in a reasonably short time.

FWIW, this is roughly how I do things: I draw my pattern on an inexpensive manila folder; cut it out, check to be sure that it is what I want; transfer the pattern to the leather and cut it out; (for this type of holster) match the front to the back and cement in place, sand the edges to match and ensure a smooth, regular edge; Dye........ then go milk a cow, read a book, chase mama around the house (at my age that is a very slow chase and doesn't happen very often) do anything that gets your mind off the wet leather! I usually leave it alone 'till the next day. Stitch the thing up, your stitches should be parallel to any welt and an even distance from that edge. Finish the edges and burnish them; MOISTEN (not soak) the leather and mold your holster; Dry it. This is where things can get a bit sticky......if you live in a warm, dry area (as I do) you can allow old Ma Nature to do the drying for you. In my area the humidity rarely goes above the 15 - 20% mark and even night time temps don't drop below 65 -70 degrees 'till winter hits ............ in most areas you need to give things an assist. For best results the leather needs to get warm....no more than 130 degrees! And no heat gun directly on the piece! A convection oven can be used , or even a cardboard box with warm air directed into it will do the job. Go chase a cow or something while drying.....leave it alone for a while. When dry, retouch your burnishing and anything that needs it...........apply finish, and again chase the cow that ate the book.... Not all leather worker's do things this way, each will have worked out a method that works for them....you will ultimately do so also.

All that said, take from my words what you will, after all you didn't pay a cent for them..........above all, keep it up........it looks like you have started well. We all make mistakes, and we learn from them, they are not failures, they are just lessons in how not to do things. Mike

[Nooj]

Thanks for the replies, yall. Being that this holster will be stuck in my pants, I guess coloration really doesn't matter after all.

Katsass- Thanks for the advice. It's all well taken. The stitching around the trigger is a lil too far out- I layed out my stitch lines 1/2 inch from the outline of the gun. I guess I thought the stitching would pull up closer to the gun when formed- I'll adjust the next to account for the compound curves in that area.

Since you dye before forming, are you using oil based dye? I used the Eco-flo water based stuff, so I did my forming prior to dyeing because I didn't know if wetting it down would affect it. Other than that, the sequence of events you discribed are what I had in mind.

Nooj

[Nooj]

Here are more pictures for ya. The first is showing where I trimmed the rear to allow for a better thumb hold when grasping the pistol (I also trimmed the front down a lil). There is one pic after I finished airbrushing it. I used dark mahogany, and went around the edges with bison brown. And then a shot of what it looks like when you get antsy and don't wait for the dye to dry before trying to seal it, lol. The last two are the finished product.

Thanks for lookin! Your input or suggestions are always welcome :-)

Nooj

[katsass]

Thanks for the replies, yall. Being that this holster will be stuck in my pants, I guess coloration really doesn't matter after all.

Katsass- Thanks for the advice. It's all well taken. The stitching around the trigger is a lil too far out- I layed out my stitch lines 1/2 inch from the outline of the gun. I guess I thought the stitching would pull up closer to the gun when formed- I'll adjust the next to account for the compound curves in that area.

Since you dye before forming, are you using oil based dye? I used the Eco-flo water based stuff, so I did my forming prior to dyeing because I didn't know if wetting it down would affect it. Other than that, the sequence of events you discribed are what I had in mind.

Nooj

For the quick answer..........yes. I use Fiebing's Pro Oil Dyes.........only. I find that they produce (for me) a more uniform job than anything else. I say Fiebing's only, but I do use my own vinegaroon for black, and soon I'll try out an old recipe for dye I'll make from walnut hull. Almost all of my holsters are made from two layers of leather, bonded with their flesh sides together, producing a smooth inner and outer surface for the holster.......many times I'll dye the outer shell one color or shade and the inside another. With these I'll dye prior to gluing anything up. Basically.....I despise water based dye........It just doesn't work well IMO. Mike

Edited September 15, 2010 by katsass

[mattsh]

Nooj

That's really good for your first holster. And the color....it actually is kind of appealing/artistic....there is another member on here that does a rough finish on purpose that looks very similar to what you have done, if I recall correctly his name is Noah. Again, its for IWB so who's gonna see it anyway?

A couple points on the holster design have already been pointed out: stitching closer to the trigger guard; and allow more room at the grip/trigger guard junction so you can get a full grip on your pistol. When it comes time to draw a full grip is going to be very vital and every tenth of a second counts, so if you have to adjust your grip as you draw your weapon it can be valuable wasted time. Just food for thought and something to consider on your next holster design.

Kudos to you on your first holster. Hopefully you've caught the bug.

[NoahL]

Nooj

That's really good for your first holster. And the color....it actually is kind of appealing/artistic....there is another member on here that does a rough finish on purpose that looks very similar to what you have done, if I recall correctly his name is Noah. Again, its for IWB so who's gonna see it anyway?

A couple points on the holster design have already been pointed out: stitching closer to the trigger guard; and allow more room at the grip/trigger guard junction so you can get a full grip on your pistol. When it comes time to draw a full grip is going to be very vital and every tenth of a second counts, so if you have to adjust your grip as you draw your weapon it can be valuable wasted time. Just food for thought and something to consider on your next holster design.

Kudos to you on your first holster. Hopefully you've caught the bug.

Yep, that'd be me--and I have to say that I do rather like the streaky color. That said, if you don't then dip that sucker in black Pro Oil dye, but it's still IWB

[Nooj]

Thanks for the complements and suggestions guys! I've leaned a good bit on this holster, and hopefully will continue to improve. I'll leave this one the way it is- It'll be a reminder to slow down and take my time ;-)

Noah- I'm very fond of your finishing technique, like the sheath in your avatar. I may attempt a similar concept on some future projects. What's the old saying- imitation is the sincerest form of flattery?

Nooj

[Big O]

Very nice!

I see you cut the back far enough to clear the magazine release, which can be important for two reasons. First, to make it less likely that it'll be inadvertently pressed. Second, to make it possible to deliberately press it (which is something I typically do to top off the magazine after chambering the top round - and I usually do that right after I stuff the pistol in the holster. Something about only having two hands.....)