Corners Look Awful. What I Am Doing Wrong?

[bydeniss]

when I reach the corner point, I lift the presser foot, turn the leather to 90 degree, drop the presser foot then continue sewing. But my corners look awful. What I am doing wrong ? Please help.

[georgeandgracie]

Are you leaving the needle in the material while you perform the turn?

[bydeniss]

Are you leaving the needle in the material while you perform the turn?

Yes, I leave the needle in the leather.

[georgeandgracie]

I am NOT the expert on these matters, so I'm anxious for one of the experts to reply here. However, when I look closely, I think I see bobbin thread being pulled out of a hole and across by top thread. That makes me wonder if there's a tension issue going on.

This is the type of problem that I can foresee having to deal with myself, so I'm chiming in here with you for a definitive answer from someone.

[JLSleather]

Thats a teeny picture, so ...some guesswork. If it's actualy skippin the stitch, make sure you go all the way down and start to come back up before pivoting.

If it's not skipping, but actually pulling the bottom thread up and over (which is how it looks in that little pic) then yes, tension issue. But, keep in mind that tension can be altered a bit by the needle size (bigger hole, easier to pull up). If it appears fine elsewhere, and issue is at the corners - I would check to see that I'm not pulling (distorting) the hole or pulling on the top thread when the leather turns. Doesn't take much to cause that with the foot up.

I might try the same material with a size smaller needle (or maybe a fresh, sharp one the same size) before altering everything else.

I'm certainly no 'pro' behind the wheel of these things, and if Wiz chimes in and tells you I'm wrong, then the smart money says go with what HE tells you

But, I do thinnk this is worth a shot ...

[bydeniss]

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=707602859251631&set=a.429454497066470.106387.422869627724957&type=3&theater

here is the link to a bigger picture. it happens only on the corner.

[Geneva]

Your thread tension is loose in the bottom. You can see it in the stitches coming up to the corner.

[Northmount]

When you lift the presser foot too high, it releases the tension disks, so you lose the top tension. Just lift the presser foot enough to allow you to turn the leather.

And another thing, the needle should be down and starting to rise so the hook has grabbed the thread loop. Else it may skip a stitch. Yours hasn't skipped a stitch so currently this is not a problem for you, just keep it in mind for the future.

Something I have found that helps me go around rounded corners and to keep a neater stitch line is to mark the stitch line so you can follow it around the curve. Guides don't always keep you where you want to be.

Tom

[georgeandgracie]

This topic is going to be worth printing out for my notebook. Thanks, Tom.

[bydeniss]

When you lift the presser foot too high, it releases the tension disks, so you lose the top tension. Just lift the presser foot enough to allow you to turn the leather.

And another thing, the needle should be down and starting to rise so the hook has grabbed the thread loop.

Tom

Thank you for the advice. I will trythat, I also start to believe my machine can't handle the thickness of the thread..

[Dwight]

bydeniss, . . . I somehow got farther along in your picture album and saw some of your other work.

You do really beautiful work, . . . keep it up, . . . a pleasure just to see that level of accomplishment.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Northmount]

Thank you for the advice. I will trythat, I also start to believe my machine can't handle the thickness of the thread..

Check your machine specs and look at needle and thread size charts. Make sure your tension is adjusted right, then go make some more practise corners.

Tom

[bydeniss]

Check your machine specs and look at needle and thread size charts.

My sewing machine is an old Juki DNU 241H. I recently bought it and I could only found over internet a manual which is not very detailed. It states that it can sew with maximum 24 size needle and the standard would be size 23. Size 23 needle was just good for thread size 10/3 but you could see my corners... and adjusting the tension was a headache. On the same seam there are stitched where it seems like the bobbin thread is tight/top thread is too loose THEN there are some stiches ok, and there are some stiches which looks the opposite way (boobin thread loose or top thread too tight). I can't understand why on the same seam the tension varries .

[bydeniss]

You do really beautiful work, . . . keep it up, . . . a pleasure just to see that level of accomplishment.

May God bless,

Dwight

Thank you Dwight. I was introduced to leatherwork in Turkey. After that everything was/is self teaching...

[Wizcrafts]

This is just a guess, but it looks to me like the thread is too thick for the wallets. That's why the knots are hard to control. Your machine is designed to sew with up to #138 bonded nylon or bonded polyester. Your designation 10/3 looks like #277 thickness to me.

No matter what thread you choose to sew with, if knots vary in position as you sew, tighten the bobbin spring for a stronger pull, then add more top tension to bring the knots to the middle of the material.

Move down one needle size for the current thread.

Further, clean any thread link from the thread path, including the upper disks and around the bobbin case, shuttle, and shuttle race.

Oil the machine liberally, then place a paper towel under the feet to absorb to run-off from the presser and needle bars.

[orangedesperado]

It can be tricky to adjust the thread tension, when you are first getting to know your industrial machine. Here are the variables that will affect your stitching:

- Thread fibre (nylon, polyester, linen, etc.)

- Thread size (in Canada industrial cones of nylon thread used for leather/upholstery are numbered ie # 33, 46, 69, etc.)

- Needle size

- Needle point (leather point, regular point, ball point)

- Upper tension

- Lower tension

- Type and texture of the leather you are sewing

It looks to me like your upper tension is too tight, and your lower tension may be slightly loose. An easy way to check this is by using different colors of thread. Ideally the stitches on both sides should look identical with no thread peeking out from below, and should be nicely embedded in the leather without seeming too tight/hard to the touch. You may have to play around with adjusting both the upper and lower tension to work together as they should. Check your needle that the point is not hooked. Check that the needle is inserted correctly (long groove faces left). Check that there is no debris in the upper or lower tension spring. Check that your upper thread is feeding smoothly. Make sure your machine is well lubricated. I always do a test run on whatever I am sewing. Thin garment leather needs a different thread and tension than hard belt leather, for example.

And definitely keep the needle in more than 1/2 way when you are pivoting the corner.