carving help

[bigorange]

I am working on a skull image on a bilfod, I drew it out and it looks nice, but I am having some difficulties in getting the shading in some areas and contuors looking correct, can someone direct me please, Thanks

[pete]

post a picture. LOT'S of good help here.

pete

[bigorange]

The pcs of scrap had a cut on the left chin line, I was looking at two diff jaw bone effects and I need to soften the bones around the eyes sockets, and make the background look not so pressed if you will, The pcs is three inches tall by a shade over two at the brow, Thanks Folks

[kevinhopkins]

The pcs of scrap had a cut on the left chin line, I was looking at two diff jaw bone effects and I need to soften the bones around the eyes sockets, and make the background look not so pressed if you will, The pcs is three inches tall by a shade over two at the brow, Thanks Folks

It's a bit difficult to advise, but I think I'd start by making sure that I used a modeling tool to work every square inch of that skull, except the background. using the modeler will soften the appearance of the eye bones, and can be used to round and shape things to some degree. As to the background, I think I might consider using a different backgrounder if you have one. Maybe a good quality f898 or f899. Something with a pattern that's not quite so bold. Just my opinion tho....

Kevin

[Tina]

Lets see if i can be of some help, I've done a few skulls with rather good results.

First of, the nose and eye sockets should not be back grounded, it's actually bones in the background too in various pieces or/and shapes,l i think that's one of the reasons it looks a wee bit off.

Like Kevin says, the modeling tools, make sure to use them often:-) These are some of the most important tools at all when doing figure carving/tooling. Except for the bevellers this is the tool I use the most. Then

The sides of the nose...Think in 3D, the nose needs to "poke out" so some pear shading around the edges will work...I'll paste in some photos that I hope will explain better than I can

Edited June 26, 2009 by Tina

[JRLeather2]

Also maybe reverse bevel the outside of the skull to round out the edge a bit and give the appereance that it is dropping off towards the background as it it had shape......

[bigorange]

WOW nice work Tina,! Pete, kevin and Jeff ,thank you all for the help and direction , I guess I should find some instruction on the use of a modeling tool!,,

[Tina]

WOW nice work Tina,! Pete, kevin and Jeff ,thank you all for the help and direction , I guess I should find some instruction on the use of a modeling tool!,,

If you don't have one (or two) get some at least in the middle range of price...There is cheep ones out there that will do more harm than good.

[bigorange]

I actually have two and I don't know were I got them, I would like to find a place that can show how to use them properly as in your post " more harm then good" I would be the perfect guy to find the harm part!

[JohnD]

Bigorange,

check out this thread : http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=560 . If you sign up for Paul's free lessons at His website http://www.paintingcow.com/ he has an excellent lesson on using a modelling spoon. I would recommend taking a look at anything this man has to offer. Hope this helps.

John

Also: Tina, who would you recommend makes a good modelling spoon?

Edited June 28, 2009 by JohnD

[azrider]

I have a couple of cheap modeling tools. I spent some time with a buffer and jewlers rouge to get mine smoothed out. That helped a bunch with making them usable.