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I was watching a video about Weaver Leather this week and was taken by a clever bit of equipment they use to soak finished product in oil before packing and dispatching. It looked like a little round 'wishing well' full of neatsfoot oil. The items to be dipped were put in a small basket and lowered on a steel 'rope' into the oil and left to soak. They were then 'wound up' out of the oil by means of a handle and roller and left to drain. Does anyone else use this method?

I have always used a sponge or brush to apply neatsfoot (or any other oil) it makes sense to dip stuff though - I was thinking about my dog collars. What do you think?

Ray

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I've found that too much oil causes leather to "weep" plus (ultimately) helps break down internal fibers, so I always apply neatsfoot sparingly like you do, Ray. Just a light surface treatment.

I am curious, though, about what Weaver's doing with their dipping vat. Did the video specifically say it was filled with neatsfoot oil? I wonder if it's some other kind of conditioner...

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It would seem that I've been misleading people again! I went off to find the video and discovered it wasn't Weaver at all - however it is definitely a tank filled with neatsfoot oil!

Check out:

and after the stitching demo you'll see the thing working for Buckaroo Leather in Diamond Springs, California... Sorry Mr Weaver! LOL

Alex: I still like the idea but, like you, am also wary of too much oil as I was always taught it caused damage to the fibres. I wonder if this is because it softens the leather making it more prone to disintegration?

The weeping is an entirely different issue. Personally, I don't like having greasy oily bits of gear about the place; but I wondered if the waterproofing effect might not outweigh the 'weeping' on animal gear that is used outside all the time. Particularly hunting leashes, retriever collars and dog harnesses.

Ray

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I can't believe nobody else dips their leather in neatsfoot oil...

Anyone know what a neat is?

Ray

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Neat is the Anglo-saxon word for 'animal, beast, ox or cattle'. Neatsfoot oil is the product of rendering-down cattle feet (as well as a bad smell!).

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I dip mine and have for 20 years. Trick is not to leave them in the oil. I dip them bring them out and let the reins, headstalls or what ever i'm making drain. Then put what ever finsh i'm useing on them and put them togeather. That's for a regular darker color. For light oiled things i put it on by hand. If you put something in the oil and leave it will come out on your clothes and be oily in your hands espically in hot weather. I've seen several saddles ruined from people thinking if a little oil is good alot must be better and that's not the case.

Edited by dirtclod

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I have a headstall from Buckaroo Leather I bought from a store that was closing down awhile back. It was marked down from $120 to something like $15 so I quickly tossed it into the shopping cart without really looking at it. Got it home and found it had an awful, greasy, oily feel to it. The leather has little body to it and the thinner edges are squishy - waaay over oiled. I've tried drawing some of the oil out in addition to cleaning with soap and water and it helped some, but it's still got a gunky feel to it. Yuck.

Maybe I should hang it on a fencepost outside and see if all that oiling does any good against our soggy western Oregon winter weather. ;)

~Wyldflower

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An interesting aspect of this forum is the diversity of opinions.

There don't seem to be too many supporters of oil dipping although I'm fairly sure there is an historical/harness making precedent in that some early British military pack animal tack was specified as being 'dipped in oil'.

Quite a number of people have looked at this topic and on the face of it, oil dipping would seem to be a no-no - but I'm still not sure. Has anyone else got anything to add here? Is there a correct way to oil dip? Is there a way to 'dip and drain' that doesn't leave the product feeling excessively greasy? What do you think? How do you do it?

Ray

P.S. Thanks for the neat's foot explanation, Terry. Most kind!

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Hi all,

I got a saddle from Billie Cooks years ago, they recommended olive oil and said they use it. Anyone ever try that?

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Hi all,

I got a saddle from Billie Cooks years ago, they recommended olive oil and said they use it. Anyone ever try that?

I've used olive oil with Vinegaroon. I dunno if that'd be a no-no though. I'm still too new to know. ;)

God Bless, Ray

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Thanks Ray I don't know either.

Bless u too!

I've used olive oil with Vinegaroon. I dunno if that'd be a no-no though. I'm still too new to know. ;)

God Bless, Ray

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I've used olive oil with Vinegaroon. I dunno if that'd be a no-no though. I'm still too new to know. ;)

God Bless, Ray

A commonly used combo.

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I've never had much success trying to dip neatsfoot oil.. Everything is gunky oily, like mentioned above. I do use several applications of oil to bullets loops however, as I usually dye them before assembly and the dye tends to stiffen them to much.

I also find that the neatsfoot I use seems to absorb better faster if the leather is damp....

Hope this helps more than adds to the confusion..

regards

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I know I am bringing this up from the dead, but how do you apply the oil without soaking your piece. The leather soaks up the oil like a sponge, and the only option I see to get a uniform coating is to put it on pretty heavy.

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I know I am bringing this up from the dead, but how do you apply the oil without soaking your piece. The leather soaks up the oil like a sponge, and the only option I see to get a uniform coating is to put it on pretty heavy.

I just try to use the same amount on the sheepskin or whatever I'm using get the light coat as even as possible and then let the piece sit as though it was drying and the oil generally evens itself out.

Kevin

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I've experimented extensively with the neatsfoot oil bath and have finally found a way to use it. You are quite right the leather soaks it up like a sponge. However, one good thing is that leather soaked in neatsfoot is almost entirely waterproof. I have dipped some straps that are needed for cycle baskets and similar outdoor tasks (also for strapping luggage onto classic cars) and they throw off water beautifully. A solid brass buckle and brass rivets mean no rust. Useful if you need to make something that is going to get wet quite often. The big drawback is that the straps feel very oily and slippery at first, This can be eased by wrapping the straps in butcher's paper to absorb the surplus oil and then hanging he straps up somewhere warm until they dry out.

I generally make about 200 straps at a time and it takes about three weeks for them to become usable/saleable, Hope this helps someone.

Ray

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In Bianchi's holster videos he dips them in a Neatsfoot oil bath. I'm sure everyone's milage varies depending on leather quality and age as well as the dipping variables like temp and amount and time.... :)

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