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Problem with that is that the leash can stretch, and when it does, it usually thins out as well, which could leave the owner of the leash with beads that wander. My customers are pretty picky about where they want the beads located, so I put stopper knots to both sides of bead/bead clusters to ensure that they stay put. Tony S. Courteous K9 Accessories I prefer to buy my beads in person. I take sample braids (4-strand uncored, 4-strand cored, and 6-strand double cored) and check that I can get the beads on them. Tony S. Courteous K9 Accessories

Noah: "Those are 1st rate leashes. I have been wanting to braid like this since for a long time now. How is this done? " Hilly: "I too, would like to know how you do these. Although I have a couple books on braiding, and think I could do a six strand round braid, I have no idea on how you would make the handle or attach a clip to it without it looking like I tied it in a knot. I have 3 large dogs I would like to make leashes for. " If you want 6 strand leads, everyday type leads, I would start out with a regular 4 strand braid, making a loop as for both of these leads; it will be more flexible than the 6-strand and make it easier to tighten on the clip (push loop through bail end of clip, pull handle through loop, pull tight). Strange though it may sound, it tends to be the clip that breaks first, so that it makes sense that it can be easily replaced. My rule of thumb for the loop is that it be big enough to wrap around my thumb. When I make the core, from mason line, I allow 3 inches for that loop. Actually, for an everyday leash I make a double core, with the "shafts" twisted about each other for additional strength. I usually braid a little more than an inch down the shaft before starting in on the loop. Once the loop is completed, I intrabraid through the bit immediately before the loop (have a closer look at the Bernese leash, both loop and handle ends); my fid is invaluable for lifting up the laces that I need to thread my ends under. When I finish that, I add in the 5/6 strand(s). You can do either a basketweave type braid (under one, over one, etc.) or a semiherringbone braid (under 2, over one from one side, under 1 over 2 from the other). I really like the semiherringbone type -- it snugs in tighter than the basketweave and produces an oval cross-section. With 6 strands, there is a lot freedom of design. Play around with colour combinations and arrangements of the strands first, before you get going. Once I finish the intrabraiding after the handle, I bury the ends in the core. No way that my ends are ever going to work loose. Lastly, I get out some clean cotton canvas and a clean block of wood and roll the lead, with particular attention to the intrabraided areas and their transitions to the non-intrabraided areas. The rolling not only redistributes any unevenness in braiding, it smooths the surfaces, tapers the intrabraided into the non-intrabraided and softens the leather. It is better to use a lot of light rolling than a little bit of heavy rolling. Finish off with leather conditioner. Tony

Hi, Darryl. I would first come up with the overall length, including clip. This would probably be along the lines of 24" plus 6" for the handle, minus maybe 1.25" for the clip, plus .5" for the turn around the clip, for a grand total of 29.25". If you are braiding with paracord or its ilk, you would know better than I what you need to multiply to get the length of each strand. In kangaroo, at the tension I use, I would multiply by about 1.25, then add about 6" to each end for the intrabraiding. If this would be for an every day leash, in 'roo, I would strongly advise going to 6 strands, with a doubled, twisted core (2 cores made separately then the "shafts" twisted about each other). This core not only adds strength, it limits the amount of stretching of the leather (and the stretching itself, over time, will weaken the leather). Having said that, I wouldn't normally cut 4 individual lengths; I would cut just the 2, fold in half, and braid until long enough to enclose the bail of the clip and have enough for the intrabraiding. That is how I did the small loops in these leashes. It tapers well enough once you have rolled it. Plus you have eliminated the fuss of burying the ends. Tony Starratt, Ottawa, Canada

Cool! Tony Starratt, Ottawa, Canada

Tazzman, I've probably been doing doing 4-strand round braid for 50 years or so; any mechanical skill takes time to master, but this is a relatively easy one and won't take you that long. I've only been doing 6-strand for a few years, but it is just an extension of 4-strand, at least in the mechanics of braiding it. As for patterns, there are a limited number that you can do with 4-strand: 3a/1b (dots), 2a/2b stripes and 2a/2/b spiral. When you get into 6 strand the possibilities really open up. It's a matter of experimenting and seeing what happens. On a personal level, I find anything more than 2 colours to be a bit "busy", though if I were to use closely related colours I think that I could make some really interesting, subtle patterns. Tony Starratt, Ottawa, Canada

Well, I tend not to look for work outside my specialty, although I am certainly open to doing it. I've made a couple of lanyards, very simple, and droppers for lanyards (also very simple). But these were dog people I met at dog shows. Tony

Have a look at the new leashes I posted to Show Off! Comments invited. Tony Starratt, Ottawa, Canada

These are 2 leashes which I made last weekend for customers at a dog show. They are both 6 strand braids. This leash was made to match a Bernese Mountain Dog. My husband took the picture and it doesn't show the detail as I would like. One one side you had chevrons coloured brown (whiskey) and white, while on the other you had a brown diagonal crossed by a short white, all on a black background. Each lace passed under 1 and over 2. 4 strands of black to 1 of brown and 1 of white. I did the small loop in 4-strand round braid so that it could be knotted more easily around a clip. This leash was made to match a Landseer (black and white) Newfoundland dog. 4 strands of white to 2 of black, arranged so that I ended up with black chevrons on a white background, alternating on each side. In this case, each lace passing clockwise went under 1 and back over 2, while each lace passing counterclockwise went under 2 and back over 1. This resulted in a symmetrical braid with an oval cross section. Again, I did the small loop in 4-strand round braid. Comments invited. Tony Starratt, Ottawa, Canada

Well, with a diameter of 3", you have a circumference of just under 9.5". The circumference of my hand at the knuckles is just over 8". Your bracelet would slip on easily enough ... then slip off just as easily. For me, a bracelet with a circumference of 9" would be better. However, your knot may effectively reduce the circumference to about that. So, overall, sizing looks good. Tony Starratt, Ottawa, ON, Canada Courteous K9 Accessories (http://ck9a.com)

> Man, I'm always impressed by someone who can braid. I've tried but I just can't seem to get it > to look like it does in the books. I'm way to impatient. Thank you, Warren. You have to remember that I learned to braid like this something like 48 years ago. My fingers have considerable muscle memory, so I don't have to think too much about what I am doing. And those braiders who suggest that you roll your braid know what they are talking about. Even my braiding is improved by it. Tony Starratt, Ottawa, ON, Canada Courteous K9 Accessories (http://ck9a.com)

Linda wrote: > Can I suggest that you dont need to splice back at the clip end. You can in fact > start your plait there by just doubling over the strands, so if you are doing a six > strand leash you cut three strands & double them over. Then you only have one > splice at the handle end. It's much neater. I'm not so sure about neater. Less bulky, certainly. My splicing at the clip end looks good and is much stronger than three laces doubled over. I'm all about looks *and* strength. Tony Starratt, Ottawa, ON, Canada Courteous K9 Accessories (http://ck9a.com)

Thanks, Clay. I appreciate the information. I am not fussy about it being kangaroo as I use kangaroo for strength, and the knots would be strictly decorative. Calf would be cheaper. The only real issue would be durability of the finish. But I will contact Jim and ask about it. Tony Starratt

As for the core, I use nylon mason's line. It has a rated breaking strength, with a steady pull, of 135 pounds. It too is braided, with its own twisted core. I form the initial loop, where the clip or ring is attached, by bringing the short end through the long end where I want them to join, then the long end through the short end next to the initial join. I then unbraid the short end halfway, remove as much of the core as I can, cut off half the loose strands, and using a needle, trying hard not to intersect the twisted core inside, I bring the loop of a bridge floss threader (see http://dentistry.about.com/od/replacingmis...bridgemaint.htm) through the line towards the join, where I insert half the length of the remaining loose strands and pull them through the line. Once I get them pulled through, I grasp them with a hemostat and work the rest of the loose end through and cut off. For the handle of a leash, or around a ring for a collar, I take the end through where I want the join, then through itself above the join, then through below the loop once again, then deal with embedding it in the core as previously. More than you wanted to know? I'd like to try commercial braided fishing line with a strength of over 200 pounds, but I have to find a source first and get a sample to ensure that I would be able to manipulate it in this fashion. I'm curious as to the strength of braided kangaroo alone. Has anybody rated it, beyond the standard "When split to 20% of original thickness kangaroo retains between 30 to 60% of the tensile strength of the unsplit hide"? Tony

I'm not that brave . Heck, I don't even cut my own lace. Tony

Never got to the end of the dvd ... ? Tony