Leather finishes

[abn]

I've used a number of different leather finishes, but would be curious to know which one is the darling of this forum's readers.

Your vote (and any additional comments) would be appreciated!

-Alex

[Tom Katzke]

I've used a number of different leather finishes, but would be curious to know which one is the darling of this forum's readers.

Your vote (and any additional comments) would be appreciated!

-Alex

A very open question. We do 2 types of leather work. Traditional and art for display. For traditional I like oil and no finish or Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax.

For art work I use UV Matt Krylon. Seals the work and the color, the UV part helps keep the leather from darkening and keeps the colors original.

We use others but at this time that is my list of favorites. Tried to vote but it will only take one choice.

Tom Katzke

Central Oregon

[abn]

Tried to vote but it will only take one choice.

Yes, I thought that might be a limitation for folks using different finishes for different types of products. (Maybe "other" would be the appropriate poll choice.)

Regardless, thanks for sharing your preferences.

[Gregory B. Moody]

Two coats of Fiebings Carnauba Cream ( lightly brushed immediately so none stays in impressions )

Let dry between each coat and before the next step. This is what keeps the Antique from going directly into the leather ... and allows the cuts and impressions to be darker than the surface... which is the essence of ' antique look' which accents your labor and artistic input....

One coat Fiebings Medium Brown Antique Finish ( applied with small piece of trimmed sherling ) wiped off with pieces of cotton sheet one direction only each... discard wipe and keep wiping all directions one way until no streaks are left showing.

Let dry.

One coat of Neutral Shoe polish... then repeat the shoe polish for the life of the project... once every 6 months to a year.

Warm brown color ( so it looks like leather )... Not a cheap glossy finish.. so it looks and feels expensive... won't crack on areas of the project which bend.... very good at not darkening over time ( I have samples 45 years old which look new )....the only finish I use ... and which was used on many of the Tandy Leather Catalog samples my father made while a Tandy manager...and on many of the Leather Factory Catalog samples .... Greg

Edited September 29, 2006 by dsenette

[pepin1948]

Aussie Wax. Ever since I used it on my saddle, I've been hooked. I suppose technically it's not a finish, so second place I'd choose Super Shene.

[Billsotx]

Lexol is all I just a lot of times.

[Johanna]

I do not like Super Shene/ Satin Sheen, especially on any item that needs to flex. During the lifetime care of the item, it seems that the Super Shene prevents the preservative oils we use from absorbing properly, too. Somewhere I remember hearing that it was developed as a non-toxic, non-flammable alternative for Neat Lac, like the Institutional Dyes were, but I could be wrong. I like Neat Lac better, but do not suggest you ever even open the can without good ventilation. Toluene is a carcinogenic, and the headache from breathing the fumes is awful.

Johanna

[CitizenKate]

I used to use satin shene - don't like the shiny acrylic finish 'cause (just my own opinion) it makes leather look like plastic. But I switched away from it when I saw how easy it was for a bit of stray moisture to destroy the finish. Jeff Mosby got me to try Bee Natural leather finish, and I just love the stuff! It creates a very natural-looking finish, even if I put it on heavy and buff it to a shine, and it stands up to moisture much better than acrylic finishes. I also like it better than other waxes, such as neutral shoe polish, because it seems to absorb into the leather better and is not as prone to cracking. At least that's what I've noticed with my own projects.

If I want as much waterproofing as possible (like on coasters), I use Neat-Lac. I used to hate Neat-Lac because I thought it made the leather look plasticy, but that was because I was putting it on too heavy. When I put it on in several very light coats, the leather retained its natural appearance.

[abn]

During the lifetime care of the item, it seems that the Super Shene prevents the preservative oils we use from absorbing properly, too.

Johanna, I've often wondered about this. It seems we put these lacquered or waxy or plastic finishes on top of something that was designed to breathe (and absorb conditioners). I wonder if it's best to do as Billsotx suggests -- just top off with Lexol and buff for a nice satin finish...

[CitizenKate]

That might be sufficient, if you don't use antiques or dyes, and you've made something that is going to just sit and look pretty. But if you do use dyes and antiques, you need some kind of a top coat to help keep them from bleeding and fading. And if you've made an item that is going to get exposed to any kind of environmental adversity, you will want something to protect your leather from moisture. Antique paste, for example, will dissolve if it comes into direct contact with moisture, including liquid conditioners.

Johanna, I've often wondered about this. It seems we put these lacquered or waxy or plastic finishes on top of something that was designed to breathe (and absorb conditioners). I wonder if it's best to do as Billsotx suggests -- just top off with Lexol and buff for a nice satin finish...

[abn]

All good points, Kate. Thanks for adding your comments.

[joel_in_bhm]

I just started experimenting with Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax. So far, I love the results.

Anyone have any information good or bad about this product?

I dont know exactly what it does, but it says that its a finish albiet not waterproof.

I dont want to make something and finish it with Leather Balm with Atom Wax and turn and inferior peice over to someone.

thanks....

[stelmackr]

Neutral Shoe polish

[abn]

I just started experimenting with Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax. So far, I love the results.

Anyone have any information good or bad about this product?

I dont know exactly what it does, but it says that its a finish albiet not waterproof.

I dont want to make something and finish it with Leather Balm with Atom Wax and turn and inferior peice over to someone.

thanks....

Joel,

I've used Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax and I think it's one of the nicest finishes available. It produces a really nice, soft satin shine that's water resistant (but not waterproof).

I switched over to Satin Shene (an acrylic product) early on because I was tooling leather and found that Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax loaded the designs with gunk. Satin Shene works well with smooth leathers and those that have been tooled or carved. (But don't let that deter you -- if you're getting good results with Leather Balm, stick with it. It's a great product.)

Now, to your question about waterproofing. I think all the finishes mentioned in this poll have about the same level of water resistance, but none are waterproof. I've heard that Montana Pitch Blend is about the best product out there for waterproofing leather. I seem to recall a fellow on another forum talking about how he used this product on the boots he wore as a lumberjack in the Pacific Northwest, and how he always had dry feet. But frankly, I think that may be overkill for your regular old leather product, like a wallet or wristband.

I think I've exhausted about all I know on the above two products. Anyone else able to chime in?

-Alex

[joel_in_bhm]

Thanks....

I was worried because I read something that said it was not a true finish.

But, with what you said and people using just neutral wax, I think I will try Balm and some neutral wax.

[Johanna]

I like Leather Balm with Atom Wax, but if you're not really careful, it will gunk up carved pieces. It is not the ideal finish for things that will be expected to get wet. It is water resistant, not water proof. You cannot beat black Leather Balm with Atom Wax if you do biker gear restoration and cleaning. You apply it, and then buff it until your elbow cramps, and it will make the leather look brand new, without staining any of the hardware. I never had a biker complain about it running in the rain (probably because of the heavy drum dyed leather most commercial saddlebags are made out of) and I've never had a problem with the finish cracking or leeching on belts and other personal items intended to flex. I do think it allows Neatsfoot and other preservative oils to penetrate better over time, and some leather is more thirsty than others. I don't finish things with plain Lexol after I've used any antique, ever, because it will likely bleed. Lexol (or I personally like Dr. Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator) can be used for natural leathers that aren't going to be exposed to weather, but without a sealant coat, the piece will be succeptible to water damage, whether it's spotting or extra markings. Neutral shoe polish is another good "water resister", but not a substitute for a sealant finish over antiqued and, sometimes, spirit or oil dyed leather. For carved leather that isn't expected to flex much, spray Neat Lac is quick, easy and pretty, and effective, just make sure you have good ventilation and that you don't spray "runs" into your work. Mist it evenly in light coats, because two applications is better than one sloppy one.

Johanna

[abn]

Leather Balm with Atom Wax... is not the ideal finish for things that will be expected to get wet.

I think Johanna's right about the above point. After I claimed that Leather Balm was water resistant, I went out to Fiebing's web site to verify and found the following product text:

"Leather Balm With Atom Wax is a specially formulated liquid wax finish for coloring, softening and polishing articles of smooth leather. Can be buffed to a rich, soft, velvety lustre. Leather Balm with Atom Wax is not a water resistant top finish." (http://www.fiebing.com/product.asp?typeID=8)

Interestingly, Fiebing's only applies the "water resistant" tagline to its acrylic-based products.

[abn]

We now have over 500 members and only a handful have weighed in on their favorite finish... If you have a preference, please vote! And for anyone who has a "special formula," please consider sharing it here for the benefit of those who maybe haven't tried it yet!

Thanks! -Alex

[Art]

Hi abn,

My favorite finish is Pecard's. My second is Bag Kote.

Art

I've used a number of different leather finishes, but would be curious to know which one is the darling of this forum's readers.

Your vote (and any additional comments) would be appreciated!

-Alex

[Patrice]

I never tried neutral shoe polish, but i'm planning to use it in a near future.

For my LARP gear (bracers, belts, armors pieces) I carve them, apply 2 coats of neat's foot oil, let them dry between each coat, then apply 2 coats of Leather balm with atom wax, let them dry, and finally, applied a coat of acrylic resolene. It give me a great resitant finish!

I must say that larp gear is expose to rain most of the time including combat and action in water

I always advice people that even if the leather is coated with wax and acrylic finish, if they jump in water, i cannot garantied that the leather will be waterproof

I would like to know what should i use to waterproof my products?

Edited January 30, 2007 by Patrice

[abn]

I've heard that Montana Pitch Blend is about the best product out there for waterproofing leather.

Patrice, above is a link to a product I've heard is good for waterproofing leather, but I must admit, I've never used it. However, here's a customer testimonial from their web site:

"After a 2300 mile trip from Washington, DC to Memphis, TN and back on my motorcycle and in the rain. Does your product work? I'd say it's miraculous. My motorcycle boots and gloves stayed waterproof." R.K.E., Jr.

If you decide to try it, I'd be curious to learn if you end up liking it or not.

Good luck! -Alex

[abn]

More on waterproofing:

I've also heard that putting several light coats of water-based polyurethane (a wood finish) on both the outside and inside of the leather product provides nearly complete waterproofing, but tends to harden the leather.

Again, I have no experience with this, just passing on what I've heard...

[Guest]

Neetsfoot is what I use on motorcycle seats

Dave Theobald

[Art]

Hi abn,

From experience Pecard's (great on MC seats and bags) is a little better than Montana Pitchblend. If you need antifungal properties, Montana Pitchblend is better than Pecard's. The tree sap they use is a natural antifungal. I also use Pecard's to "rejuvinate" leather.

Art

Patrice, above is a link to a product I've heard is good for waterproofing leather, but I must admit, I've never used it. However, here's a customer testimonial from their web site:

"After a 2300 mile trip from Washington, DC to Memphis, TN and back on my motorcycle and in the rain. Does your product work? I'd say it's miraculous. My motorcycle boots and gloves stayed waterproof." R.K.E., Jr.

If you decide to try it, I'd be curious to learn if you end up liking it or not.

Good luck! -Alex

[JustWakinUp]

A note waterproofing.

I used pecards on a small bracelet i made for my daughter (3yrs old <==That's her). After it dried over night and I wiped the piece off i put a little Leather Balm /w Atom Wax on it to get a good shine. That night she took a "BATH" with it on and much to my surprise within 15 minutes of being out of the bath the piece looked as good as it did when I was finisehd and showed no signs of being in submersed in water.

I stand by the pecards, the Atom wax thing was just a test to see if I could get some good shine and it worked fairly well.