Jump to content
bylinesupplyco

Need Some Stitching Help!

Recommended Posts

So I've been experimenting with some various stitching methods to increase speed on some projects. I recently noticed a leatherworker I admire pre-punching his holes, and then saddle stitching from there. Im not EXACTLY sure what tools he uses for this, however his finished products look amazing. Top notch stuff.

I decided to give this a go, and just try something different from the standard awl method, to hopefully increase speed as order volume picks up.

I purchased a CS Osborne #153 00 spring punch. At first I was very very happy with it, it punched holes for my wallets effortlessly, even going through 3 layers of 3-4 oz veg like nothing.

Then after about 2 days of use, it sort of went down hill and wouldn't even go all the way through. The tubular punch even cracked, and I had to replace the tube after one day.

My local supply store loaned me an Osborne #00 singular punch that I've used with my maul, but that leaves one awful backside. The inside where I grooved, and used a stitching chisel looks amazing. The outside (while the stitching lines are perfect) look terrible from the punch. Should I groove the backside as well?

I'm not a big fan of sewing machines, and much prefer hand stitching all of my items.

My questions are:

1) Am I doing something wrong with the Osborne punch that would cause it to stop going through the leather I need it to, when it was punching holes just fine a few days prior?

2) What methods/tips/tricks do y'all have to increase the speed of your stitching? Yes I know that practice is a big part of it!

Any help would be great thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I was buying Osborne tools every one required sharpening out of the box.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I want to hand sew a project I use chisel also. First I groove my sewing line then use my chisel to punch all my holes. If your holes from your chisel are leaving marks from pulling it out of the leather then you need to sharpen your chisels. If you have a buffer I would use the white rouge and sharpen your chisels or use a small file. I hope this helps. I love to hand sew but my hands just can't take it anymore so I had to buy a sewing machine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should inspect the punches before use to ensure that they are not nicked or have a rolled edge, and that they are sharp. If they aren't, you need to first stone the edge flat, then sharpen them. Chucking it up in a drill is the easiest method to ensure roundness. Be sure to de-burr the inside of the punch as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I lay out my stitch groove on the front. Run my stitch spacer over it to place my holes. Chuck my awl in my floor drill press. Use the press to punch all my holes. Flip the holster over and groove the back where the holes are, connect the dots.

I have a wooden table mounted to my regular drill press table. I drilled a hole for the awl to pass through. I also put a piece of stiff cardboard between the leather and the wood table. Otherwise the wood can mark the leather. I pre punch all my holes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I lay out my stitch groove on the front. Run my stitch spacer over it to place my holes. Chuck my awl in my floor drill press. Use the press to punch all my holes. Flip the holster over and groove the back where the holes are, connect the dots.

I have a wooden table mounted to my regular drill press table. I drilled a hole for the awl to pass through. I also put a piece of stiff cardboard between the leather and the wood table. Otherwise the wood can mark the leather. I pre punch all my holes.

Jason, I just bought Bob Douglas' awls and no handle from Sheridan in Wyoming. I want to do what you're doing, and chuck them in the drill press. (Arthritic fingers.) I've always drilled the holes before (didn't know better) and had a wood block under the knife sheath, and I'd do that again. Good to hear about the cardboard. But I've been wondering how to chuck a square-shanked awl into the drill press. Did you grind yours round first?

Thanks in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like my Osborne awl. It's better than some more expensive awls I've tried in terms of the size/length of the blade and the shape of the handle. It did need a little sharpening, but that's to be expected. To sharpen, I used a ceramic stone and then some rouge on a strip of cardboard. the awl rarely needs sharpening now, and it gets a lot of use!

Groove your leather and run your stitch wheel on it. Use a stitching pony to hold your leather. Support the back side with a hunk of wax or a wine cork if you need to. I punch my holes first, and then put my awl down to sew them up, as I only have short stretches on my dog collars. If you're sewing long lengths, learn to hold the awl in your right hand (if you're right handed) while you're sewing and punch holes as you go.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use a CSO awl as well, and once properly polished it will go through leather like butter --- I lay the leather on a piece of dense styrofoam and punch away, works great...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But I've been wondering how to chuck a square-shanked awl into the drill press. Did you grind yours round first?

Thanks in advance.

First drill a proper size hole in a short length of 3/8 inch hardwood dowel. You can force the blade base into the dowel, . . . then mount the whole thing in the drill press, . . . and later if you change your mind, . . . you have your blade without having destroyed it by grinding it round.

May God bless,

Dwight

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

God bless you in return, Dwight! Thank you. I've just put the sheath aside for the contact cement to bond overnight, and I'll run out and get the dowel (if we don't have any already) tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

MorningStarL, I generally tinker with it till I get it where I want it. If it's consistent it works, even if it's not absolutely square. Main thing is to put any lean into the holster instead of towards the edge. But Dwight has a good idea there. Might try that. I have seen some awls with rounder shafts, but have not picked any up yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...