Shoe Patcher Questions - Adler 30-1/Singer 29

[nuncanunca]

I am trying to remove the needle bar driving lever joint pin (at least that is what it is called on the 29-4) on an adler shoe patcher - it has a bolt head that I can turn with a great deal of effort, but it doesnt appear to be backing the pin out when it turns. I don't want to damage anything by forcing it with a wrench - can anyone tell me how to get the pin out without damaging anything? Is the pin threaded or just held in place by pressure? I am going to be refurbishing a Singer 29-4 soon, and I suppose I will have the same problem when I try to take the needle bar driving lever off of that machine too. Can I just tap the pin out from the back side?

Thanks!

Dave

[Cobra Steve]

I am trying to remove the needle bar driving lever joint pin (at least that is what it is called on the 29-4) on an adler shoe patcher - it has a bolt head that I can turn with a great deal of effort, but it doesnt appear to be backing the pin out when it turns. I don't want to damage anything by forcing it with a wrench - can anyone tell me how to get the pin out without damaging anything? Is the pin threaded or just held in place by pressure? I am going to be refurbishing a Singer 29-4 soon, and I suppose I will have the same problem when I try to take the needle bar driving lever off of that machine too. Can I just tap the pin out from the back side?

Thanks!

Dave

Dave, as I recall, and someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I have never seen a bolt on a Adler 30-1. Normally it is a tapered pin that has to be tapped in, and tapped out to remove it, or a threaded pin. Maybe somewhere along the line, a mechanic did not have, or couldn't get the right part, so he replaced it with whatever he could find. If I were you, I would get that bolt out (if it was a threaded pin, then the threads are probably stripped anyway), and replace both the connecting pin, and the piece it fits into. You might be able to get these parts from Bob at Toledo Sewing Machine Co. or an industrial sewing machine dealer in your area. Steve

[CowboyBob]

Steve's right on this one,it should be a taper pin,it sounds like somewhere over the years someone lost the pin & jammed bolt in it.It should eventually turn out.

[nuncanunca]

Thanks for your help! Turns out it was a taper pin, it just has a large hex bolt head on it - and a good thing, too. I don't know how I would have got the pin out otherwise. That sucker was in there tight! After a lot of careful wrenching I got it out, cleaned everything up, and am now in the process of struggling to get the pin all the way back in. Its halfway there - will start in on it again tonight.

Next question: When I go to refurbish my 29-4 - how do I get that pin out without damaging anything? It doesnt have anything to get ahold of, so I was thinking of using a rubber mallet and wooden dowel to try to tap it out from the back side. Is there any trick to getting the pin out on the 29s?

Incidentally, the reason I am taking the driving levers off is to clean decades of grime from the machines. I got them from a retired shoe man who had them sitting in his shed for 15 years at least. The good thing is, the thick greasy crud coating these machines has kept them safe from the Florida humidity - underneath it all they are in great shape.

Dave

[Cobra Steve]

Thanks for your help! Turns out it was a taper pin, it just has a large hex bolt head on it - and a good thing, too. I don't know how I would have got the pin out otherwise. That sucker was in there tight! After a lot of careful wrenching I got it out, cleaned everything up, and am now in the process of struggling to get the pin all the way back in. Its halfway there - will start in on it again tonight.

Next question: When I go to refurbish my 29-4 - how do I get that pin out without damaging anything? It doesnt have anything to get ahold of, so I was thinking of using a rubber mallet and wooden dowel to try to tap it out from the back side. Is there any trick to getting the pin out on the 29s?

Incidentally, the reason I am taking the driving levers off is to clean decades of grime from the machines. I got them from a retired shoe man who had them sitting in his shed for 15 years at least. The good thing is, the thick greasy crud coating these machines has kept them safe from the Florida humidity - underneath it all they are in great shape.

Dave

Dave you should use a brass punch and a small hammer, and tap lightly. Steve

[Art]

Be careful when wacking on pins that you don't bend the shaft the pin is in. If they are really tight, you have to back them up with something.

Sometimes crud can be your friend, or at least not such a bad thing. Oftentimes that "crud" takes-up some of the slack in an older machine. In a lathe or mill, you have to clean them up and get those tolerances back, but in a sewing machine, you may wish you hadn't cleaned them. Don't get me wrong, if you are going to use it all day every day, clean it up and replace the parts; but if you will be using it occasionally and it currently works, clean-up the cosmetics and remove the stuff on top, but resist the urge to take it apart and clean every last bearing and bushing surface, so you don't end-up with something that rattles when a dump truck rolls by.

Art

Thanks for your help! Turns out it was a taper pin, it just has a large hex bolt head on it - and a good thing, too. I don't know how I would have got the pin out otherwise. That sucker was in there tight! After a lot of careful wrenching I got it out, cleaned everything up, and am now in the process of struggling to get the pin all the way back in. Its halfway there - will start in on it again tonight.

Next question: When I go to refurbish my 29-4 - how do I get that pin out without damaging anything? It doesnt have anything to get ahold of, so I was thinking of using a rubber mallet and wooden dowel to try to tap it out from the back side. Is there any trick to getting the pin out on the 29s?

Incidentally, the reason I am taking the driving levers off is to clean decades of grime from the machines. I got them from a retired shoe man who had them sitting in his shed for 15 years at least. The good thing is, the thick greasy crud coating these machines has kept them safe from the Florida humidity - underneath it all they are in great shape.

Dave

[barra]

I concur with Art. I have a 29K13 that I am kicking myself for pulling it apart for a total restoration. It was working fine when I got it and now it aint. If it is working I'd give it a general clean up and leave it at that.

Barra

[nuncanunca]

Good advice - thanks!

I left most of the inner workings on the adler alone - I wanted to clean up all the outer surfaces to get it looking pretty to sell. Hopefully when I get my replacement parts and put it all together it will sew.

Neither machine was in sewing condition when I got them. Maybe I will skip taking the lever off the 29 - although I was hoping to give it a funky paint job, since I will be keeping it.

Be careful when wacking on pins that you don't bend the shaft the pin is in. If they are really tight, you have to back them up with something.

Sometimes crud can be your friend, or at least not such a bad thing. Oftentimes that "crud" takes-up some of the slack in an older machine. In a lathe or mill, you have to clean them up and get those tolerances back, but in a sewing machine, you may wish you hadn't cleaned them. Don't get me wrong, if you are going to use it all day every day, clean it up and replace the parts; but if you will be using it occasionally and it currently works, clean-up the cosmetics and remove the stuff on top, but resist the urge to take it apart and clean every last bearing and bushing surface, so you don't end-up with something that rattles when a dump truck rolls by.

Art

I concur with Art. I have a 29K13 that I am kicking myself for pulling it apart for a total restoration. It was working fine when I got it and now it aint. If it is working I'd give it a general clean up and leave it at that.

Barra

[CowboyBob]

Those taper pin should drive out from the back we also put a small piece of metal (block)in front with a hole(for the oin to go into) in it to absorb the shock of the hammer blow & use a steel punch from the back & then you don't have to be afraid to give it a good whack,they are usually pretty tight.

[shoepatcher]

<br

Dave,

Glad you got the bolt out on the Adler. Unlike the large tapered pin on a Singer, the bolt that holds the Adler large top rack is a tapered pin but it is also an eccentric for adjusting the height of the needle bar. When you put it back in, you will have to do some adjustment to get the needle bar back to the correct height. Adler gave you this function where Singer did not.

I find the best way to get these tapered pins out is to put some anti grease or rust removal like Kroil oil or BB Blaster down the two oil holes and let it set for 24-48 hours. Once time has run on, I use a tapered punch and a hammer and tape very gently back to front until the bond is broken and the pin begins to move. Remember, these are large tapered pins that are driven in with hammers to hold. Years of old oil or grease or rust almost welds these pins in there. A lot of patience is required. Hope that helps

/>I am trying to remove the needle bar driving lever joint pin (at least that is what it is called on the 29-4) on an adler shoe patcher - it has a bolt head that I can turn with a great deal of effort, but it doesnt appear to be backing the pin out when it turns.  I don't want to damage anything by forcing it with a wrench - can anyone tell me how to get the pin out without damaging anything?  Is the pin threaded or just held in place by pressure?  I am going to be refurbishing a Singer 29-4 soon, and I suppose I will have the same problem when I try to take the needle bar driving lever off of that machine too.  Can I just tap the pin out from the back side?<br /><br />Thanks!  <br />Dave<br />

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