iknowthisguy13

A local holster maker suggested using polycrylic instead of resolene as a finish. It does seem to work better than resolene when diluted 50/50 but I have trouble getting an even finish without streaks or spots of heavy build up. Any suggestions?

What are the best ways to get nice even coverage with water stains and oil dyes? I have a lot of trouble especially with the oil dyes. I can dip dye ok but that seems wasteful and very messy.

I have been hearing horror stories about over use of neatsfoot oil on holsters. What do you use to preserve your holsters including shape and retention. And what is the proper way to treat holsters with neatsfoot oil?

I am new to holster making and am wondering what you all use and recommend your customers use to preserve their holsters without softening the leather and losing retention. Any and all advice appreciated. Thank you, -Joe

Okay, I got in touch with Al Bane through the Class 4 group on Facebook. After talking through the alignment for the shuttle hook timing, we determined that the hex bolt facing down and slightly back when the needle was in position was not right. I ended up loosening the very first cam to the far left on the back and tapping it down and around until my hex bolt was facing me directly when the needle was in position to time the shuttle. Then I went back through the other two cams and timed them, then timed the shuttle hook. Tested it and everything worked beautifully. Now if I hadn't stabbed through my thumb nail and partway through my thumb, I would be a very happy camper. Thank you everyone for the help. I learned alot about the anatomy of my machine.

OK, at this point Springfield leather wants me to ship the sewing machine back for repair so they can fix the timing issues. Bobby from SLC said he normally will reference another machine in the shop to time the dragon cam and timing cam (both on the back of the machine) set correctly since there isn't a good reference point for them. Could I get some Cobra Class 4 owners to take some pictures of these cams in relation to their set screws? Once I have these set correctly I can time the shuttle and cross my fingers. The video I used to check these cams is the fifth one down here: http://www.leathermachineco.com/videostips/ Apparently they don't actually want you to change these, nor are the reference points accurate. Thanks all. -Joe

If I had a decent place to hang them from the ceiling I would. Small hole(s) in the leather and plant hooks in a board attached to studs. What I ended up doing to reclaim my living room was take a couple of 1x6 boards and drilled 5/8" holes for dowels. This created a stand that handles the larger pieces and working pieces pretty reasonably. I am worried about being careful not to scuff or scratch the leather with the rod ends. I guess I could round them. I tossed it together yesterday, so I can't vouch for it quite yet, but it sounds reasonable.

And the directions are now reversed. Goodie.

OK, I have tuned everything that can be tuned and still no joy. Top thread does not go around the shuttle. The loop still forms then nothing.

And the timing cam...

Going through the Leather Machine Co video now. Already adjust the dragon centric cam.

Is the outer race supposed to be really snug? I was under the impression from the Al Bane video that it would fall off with the screws removed. I had to work it off with a screw driver.

3/16" of an inch to the best of ability. I am turning the wheel in the correct direction. Is the loop that forms suppose to drop down and hook immediately below the hook that forms it? If so, this isn't happening.

Rethreaded the machine, all the tensions check out, the hook intersects the needle as proscribed. Needle is in all the way (new needle) long groove on the left. Small loop forms and does nothing. Bobbin threaded and installed correctly. tension seems appropriate there too.

I give up. I can't get the needle thread to engage the bobbin thread at all now.