Folding Bag Gussets In Vs Sewing On The Outside.

[mrtreat32]

Experienced bad makers.

Besides the obvious difference in the look of the end product. Is there any particular reason you would choose one over the other or is this purely based on the look you want only.

Maybe Chrome tan leather would tend to be sewed inside the bag since they can't burnish as nicely. Any feedback would be appreciated.

thanks

[JREESER1]

On chrome tanned, I feel an inside seam looks cleaner. Most of my bags are done with lined 5-8 oz. chrome tanned, including the gussets. One word of caution, there have been times, especially if the gusset is not very wide, a lot of force is required to invert the bag and straighten the seams between the gusset and the front/back panels. Inside seams also allow for the wider corner seams to not detract from the bag. This is only an opinion. I have seen magnificent examples of outside seams, but given a choice I prefer clean straight inside gusset seams. I don't think there is a right or wrong way, just preferences.

[DavidL]

turned edges in general to the end user are more finished, much like the edges of the jeans are turned in, most high end bags have a turned in edge, if not all. Edges on the outside look nice if they have edge paint + heat or burnished, raw looks more natural/vintage. More of the extra touch than a main selling point, but can make the product look nicer with edge paint (outside) or inside. Trim can also be added like a bias tape inside or outside and is fun to sew imo.

In general gusset on the inside works well on most women bags and some mens bag, gusset edge on the outside is more manly and takes the attention away from the other parts.

More of a design choice I would think. Most people stitch gusset on the outside since its a lot easier and takes less calculations and planning, stitching the bag turned in can be annoying.

Some things to consider with the:

Gusset on the outside is that it can be burnished or coloured by edge paint, and match the interior. You can add leather bias tape. More manly/ aggressive rather than feminine.

If your really good you can make it look distressed.

Gusset on inside is more polished in most cases, piping can be used for this too, which is a good look. You can also add bias tape on the inside (leather or not). With piping is harder and even just regularly is pretty hard since you have to flip it inside out. Also add skiving which is another reason some people go for outside gusset because of lack of machinery and lack of knowledge on how thin to skive, how wide to skive, taper, non taper, how to prevent it from bulging out and touching the lining interior (still don't understand this fully) and when hand sewing inside curves sometimes the leather reacts differently and is a harder skill set (hard to explain, but first hand its apparent) and marking on curves are different since the outside piece should have a slightly longer curve. In other words Inside gusset is another beast on its own.

May be helpful, maybe not, but is my opinion on gusset in vs out.