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Holster Design Question

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Is it a safe assumption that to much distance between the edge of the gun and the belt loop can cause holster to lean out? (avenge and pancake)

Out of habit I don't tighten my belt very much (hurts the old tummy). A recent avenger I made my self seems to ride very nice and I had made minimal the distance between stitch line and belt loop. Just curious if my assumption is correct.

Thanks

post-23581-0-36571600-1405687599_thumb.j

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You'll get a LOT of different answers to what the "minimum" distance to the belt loop is. I've seen holsters with about 1/2" between the stitch line on the gun and the slot. It 'can' be done, as most of the pressure should be downwards (not backwards) but I prefer more like 3/4" of "meat" in there. Too close and you have usability issues, too far and you create concealment issues (smaller is better where possible).

I'm not seeing how this distance would be responsible for a gun leaning out, though. Some guns with big 'spaces' where you describe may lean out, but it would be due to something other than that. Like, belt loops TOO LOW on the rig would probably be the first thing. Also, a belt loop that is TOO WIDE for the belt used may allow some movement.

Basically, I think if your loops are above the balancing point of the gun and close to the belt size, the spacing shouldn't cause a 'lean'. In fact, that's rather the dual loops on these style holsters .. tends to suck it IN, not out (if high enough).

Just got done 'scratchin m' head' over another design the other day. Good to make a guy think sometimes, I imagine, but ...

Lady has a 1911 (which is pretty narrow already) and wants to use a steel belt clip, a thumb break snap/strap, and forward slant, and carving design with initials at the top. So, how to fit all that in without the strap covering initials - and the snap not interfering with the clip, and the clip not preventing the snap closing, etc. Some of these are pretty straight forward, this one not so much. :)

Edited by JLSleather

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The lean out is most likely caused because the belt loops are too low on the holster. The first holster I made of this design had the same issues...make sure that the holster loops are at the mid to upper trigger area of the gun...especially on the 1911 45's, which are a little top heavy to start with.

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I agree with the above posters I think lean out is caused by slots to low in the design, I like all of mine to be mid to upper trigger guard also.

This is really important on N frame revolvers as I learned the hard way once!

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Thanks for the comments. Very helpful.

You might notice the added in stitch line which seems to be a common occurrence with me. I take the width of the slide divided in half plus the thickness of the leather. It almost never comes out correct. Is my formula wrong? Or some other common mistake I am making? I make changes to the pattern afterwards but should be able to get it correct the first time.

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I had this problem too...now I take the width of the gun, divide by 2 and don't add but half the thicknesses of the leather, sometimes I only add about 1/16 of an inch to account for the leather thickness, I use 8/10 oz leather for all my holsters. When you lay out your stitch lines make sure you come straight out from your gun outline at a 90 degree angle. Hope this makes sense. ..it's hard to put into words. Remember. .leather will stretch a lot when you are wet forming...better too tight than too lose on your stitch lines. This is just the way I do it...I'm sure there are many many other ways.

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I often 're-work' a pattern. There will be some difference in the thickness of leathers, even two pieces cut from the same hide can vary. The "extra" stitch line -- I don't think it's a problem.

But, is it usually on the 'high end' like that? Because in that area, you might consider half the thickness of the trigger guard, rather that the thickness of the slide. With the Glock, you're looking at what .. maybe .400" difference? So half that is .200". So, is your stitch line "off" by about 3/16"? If so, that could be one issue.

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Very good comments, thank you.

The biggest measurement is 5/16 between the two stitch lines.

Every thing I have read says measure the way I described above to get pattern. Except one youtube video where the guy says half the trigger guard on that side, which makes sense.

I have had some holsters so tight that I had to force the gun in with out any thing (dowel rod) for a sight channel. stretch on it some and then start over again with dowel rod over sight. Thinking this is never going to work! and makes the best fitting holster when done.

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Mernickle Holsters makes an extremely high ride belt holster that does not tip out, at least not if the belt is reasonably tight. I made a copy, for my personal use, and I carry a full size .45 acp Springfield XD in it with no problems. The secret to this holster is a flap that goes over the belt behind the holster, and has a built-up shim, for the lack of a better word, near the bottom. This forces the bottom of the holster out a little, and prevents tipping. I have posted a link to an article on Gun Blast, that has a photo about half way down the page, that shows the flap I am talking about.

Mernickle-PS61.htm

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That didn't work so well, so try this

post-6341-0-96036100-1405826473_thumb.jp

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