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Ferg

Machine Stitching End Of Belts

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I finally have some time to play with my sewing machine.

Several questions:

1) Does everyone stitching with a machine groove the front side for the stitches? I tried with the groove and without. Like the stitch down level with the surface of the finish leather.

2) Any notes of importance on stitching around the shaped end of a belt? I find it difficult to keep the stitches consistent in length. Stitching manually but haven't determined how I

should move the leather in reference to the needle. I assume the needle should be into the leather before you move it going around the end.

3) I had obtained a smooth needle plate before Christmas. The "dogs" won't adjust down far enough to keep from hitting the bottom of the plate without removing the entire

mechanism and I am not going to do that. My Son-in-Law has a mill so he is going to machine the back of the plate for me so the dogs don't hit.

4) I have adjusted the pressure on the presser feet so they have just enough down pressure to keep the leather moving. Unfortunately they still make marks in the finish leather. I

should add that my presser feet are smooth.

When using a factory dyed leather the marks are very troublesome, the large modeling spoon will not remove the marks to my satisfaction. I will continue to work on that

problem but I am certainly open for any and all suggestions.

BTW: I am on a Consew 206RB5. Have spent some time seeing what parts do what. LOL

ferg

Edited by 50 years leather

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I had some of the same problems when I did my first few belts.

Yes, . . . matter of fact, . . . I groove both sides. I do my edges first, sanding and edging them to an acceptable final finish. Sometimes I even go ahead and burnish them. This is the trick necessary to getting the backside stitches in the groove where they need to be.

I learned to position the stitch groove in the window on my presser foot so I could dictate to the machine where the next stitch would land as I made the turn. I actually move the belt while the needle is all the way down, . . . pivoting on the needle itself.

I also drastically removed pressure from my presser foot. My belts or holsters will feed, . . . but I have it so loose that it just barely feeds, . . . and I have practiced to the point that I almost force feed it into the machine. That did get rid of those nasty marks you were talking about.

My machine is a Tippmann Boss.

May God bless,

Dwight

PS: They beat the heck out of a sail needle and a palm, . . . those sewing machines !!!

Edited by Dwight

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I had some of the same problems when I did my first few belts.

Yes, . . . matter of fact, . . . I groove both sides. I do my edges first, sanding and edging them to an acceptable final finish. Sometimes I even go ahead and burnish them. This is the trick necessary to getting the backside stitches in the groove where they need to be.

I learned to position the stitch groove in the window on my presser foot so I could dictate to the machine where the next stitch would land as I made the turn. I actually move the belt while the needle is all the way down, . . . pivoting on the needle itself.

I also drastically removed pressure from my presser foot. My belts or holsters will feed, . . . but I have it so loose that it just barely feeds, . . . and I have practiced to the point that I almost force feed it into the machine. That did get rid of those nasty marks you were talking about.

My machine is a Tippmann Boss.

May God bless,

Dwight

PS: They beat the heck out of a sail needle and a palm, . . . those sewing machines !!!

Thanks Dwight.

ferg

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Kinda funny, but true story.

I went to a nearby industrial sewing machine retailer and asked him how I could eliminate the ugly marks on the back of my work......

"can you help me get rid of this?"

He said "Sure I can"

"oh yeah? how??

"buy that machine" as he points to a REAL stitching machine.

Short story longer....he then explains to me why the machine I was trying to use was not the right kind of machine for the work I was trying to do on it......and showed me that the new machine he was pointing at is.

While the machine I had was rated to sew through 1/2" of material, (it could sew through 1/2" of veg tan) it was really meant to sew thru material that does not mark....canvass, webbing, etc.......

Live and learn....again......I hope to pick up that new machine this week:thumbsup:

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Kinda funny, but true story.

I went to a nearby industrial sewing machine retailer and asked him how I could eliminate the ugly marks on the back of my work......

"can you help me get rid of this?"

He said "Sure I can"

"oh yeah? how??

"buy that machine" as he points to a REAL stitching machine.

Short story longer....he then explains to me why the machine I was trying to use was not the right kind of machine for the work I was trying to do on it......and showed me that the new machine he was pointing at is.

While the machine I had was rated to sew through 1/2" of material, (it could sew through 1/2" of veg tan) it was really meant to sew thru material that does not mark....canvass, webbing, etc.......

Live and learn....again......I hope to pick up that new machine this week:thumbsup:

Ray,

I hope you enjoy your new machine. With unending help from Wiz and a lot of experimenting with foot pressure etc., I have very little problem with the marks on the leather I am sewing.

Even with time spent, it was cheaper than a new machine that may do the same thing.

just my .02

ferg

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Yepperz...Wiz had substantial input in my decision.

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