Kendog

After digging around a bit I found this instructable which seems like a good starting point for anyone interested: http://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-Shearling-Boots/#step0

Hi, I'm going to try my hand at making an Ugg style snow boot for my toddler. I've done a bit of research and am trying to decide between using shearling scraps or rabbit fur hides. Never worked with hair on hide before and am expecting a few surprises. Couple Questions: The exterior of ugg boots are nice suede and I'm trying to figure out if I should use a separate piece of suede attached to the hairless side of the hides. I don't see how they can get those big shearling pieces with a perfect uniform suede finish on the back using just one hide. Any opinions? I'm not sure what to do with the edge of fur hide, possibly sew on a trim or edge binding around the tops and edges or maybe just do an overlay with thin decorative strips of 3oz, kind of like what you'd see with wingtips. Thanks in advance, KD

edit: ok I will have to re figure the #s a bit and possibly need to clarify cutting vs shearing This is great info. The fobs I have to cut out are only 5" perimeter so a half ton press should get through 6oz, barely, but should be no problem for 3 oz. One ton should get me in the game with no worries. Now I just have decide if I want to get fancy with a book press and click in the comfort of my own home Thanks -- KD

Hi everyone, So I've been looking into modifying a simple shop press to use as a clicker and it seems that 12 tons gets the job done. But I'm wondering if I can get by with something in the 1 ton range for thin leather around 3 to 4 or even 5 to 6 ounce for pieces the size of a small key fob. Thanks, KD

There are a couple of issues to consider. If you plan to use the shield in HEMA, I'd recommend getting a shield blank from windrose armories. Don't forget to order a shield boss. You don't need the premium Aluminum. You could also make due with a piece of thin plywood, 1/4" will be sufficient. Cutting a perfect circle can be an issue without the right tools. Search youtube for "how to cut a circle with table saw". You will still need a shield boss. I would not recommend plywood thicker than 1/4". If you want something a little more authentic, you can get 1/4" poplar planks and glue them edge to edge. I would recommend a layer of glued canvas between a plank shield and the leather. The canvas will add a great deal of strength to the construction. Wood shields (plywood or planks) can have issues with warping. When you attach the center grip, make sure the grip is against the natural curve of the wood, so the shield will be force flat. The grip will also offer you an opportunity to wrap it in leather, similar to how you'd wrap a sword handle. To assemble the shield, I like to use JB Cold Weld with rivets. One final touch I like to add is an oven-blued shield boss. You'll need to remove the acrylic coating the boss likely has, using sandpaper, steel wool, or scotch bright, heat your oven up to about 490F (gold) to 550F (blueish), bake the boss for about 30 minutes, then plunge it into a pot of water that has a thin layer of vegetable oil floating on top. Don't forget the rawhide trim. Unless shield making is something you are obsessed with (eh-um), I would strongly recommend laying down the $80 for a pre-fab aluminum shield blank. If you want the appearance of wood, you can always plane-down poplar planks to 1/8" thickness and epoxy them onto the back of the shield.