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RoosterShooter

What Are You Using To Wet Mold Your Holsters? Examples Please.

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I've been making IWB and Shoulder holsters for a little while now.

When I got my 20 Ton Shop press I outfitted it with a couple of plates, and I use 1" thick Foam for the molding process. I've been using 2 pieces on top and 2 on the bottom, and I haven't been very happy with my results. It doesn't give the detail to wet Herman Oak 8 oz. leather like I have seen in some instances.

I'm using this item here ..... http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=41_524&products_id=4292

Should I try adding more foam, or should I go with a new product altogether?

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Just a guess here but the holsters I've seen with all the super detailed boning seem much thinner than 8 oz, like maybe 5. Again just a guess.

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I am using this to form kydex holsters. One layer on bottom and as much as you want on top. Dense and kinda tough. I don't do much boning and I am satisfied with light forming.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stansport-Pack-Lite-Camping-Pad/9856753?action=product_interest&action_type=image&placement_id=irs_middle&strategy=PWVUB&visitor_id=54388131607&category=0%3A4125%3A4128%3A1075006%3A1080584&client_guid=1e78baa9-1db4-448e-a334-8f6e2546c8fe&config_id=0&parent_item_id=10957723&guid=80bcd17d-3678-4cc8-9460-123a0f61abb9&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&findingMethod=p13n

I use a cheap vacuum bagger (leftovers :)) to from a lot of my holsters. I get pretty good definition if left overnight. 'Course it will never dry in the bag.

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It would be helpful if you could attach a photo of your molded holster. Most mold methods I've used ( vacuum press and shop press with foam) required a fair amount of manual detail work with a bone folder or modeling spoon after pressing to get the desired results. There is also a critical moisture level that the leather needs in order to capture fine molded detail. Leather that is too dry or too wet will not retain sharp, crisp detail.

I currently use a vacuum bag system that does most of the "heavy lifting" giving a pretty good overall fit, but it is still necessary to go over the piece with a tool to bring out more detail. Additionally, thinner leather will usually give a finer level of detail. It is certainly possible to get good results with 8/9 leather, but it takes a little more time and effort than with thinner leather.

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I've never held the "Mega foam" that Knifekits sells so I don't know how stiff it is. I mold kydex with some black neoprene foam that is about 1 1/8" thick and looks like the black foam they sell. I bought a big roll of it at a flea market. It gives great detail to the kydex using only squeeze clamps and two pieces of plywood.

I have never tried it with leather yet. I'll put it on my "to do" list.

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Rooster, how long are you leaving the holster in the press? NOt saying that you do it, however I know some people put a holster in the press for just a few minutes and take it out. The problem is that it is usually just as wet as when it went into the press. If it is that wet it usually does not take the detail or hold it that long. Even with kydex when you mold a holster you have to let the kydex cool enough to hold the form and detail. With leather I used to leave it in the press for 20 to 30 minutes minimum. Then take it out and bone it let it dry some more and bone it some more. Now I use vaccumm. Alot of people I know have started out with the press then switched to vacumm. The nice thing about vacumm is that you can do some of the molding right through the bag while it is being vacumm formed.

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Are you guys just using the vacuum bags they use for clothes? I've seen some vacuum tables, but don't have the time to look seriously at them. I need to dig out the ones I bought a while back.

Red, the foam from knife kits is worth the cost. If you look around they sell end pieces and mis cuts a lot cheaper. I need to order some more. I bought a bundle of end pieces and have been using it for about 8 months. I sell far more hybrids than I do leather too, so it's seem some hard use.

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Yes, the plastic/leather marriage is very successful. I guess I will give in and do some. Do you get the snaps/clips/? from Knife Kits?

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From the grump: It sounds from your initial description that your leather comes out "wet". Well, it will if you put it in "wet". I sog up the thing, set it aside for as long as it takes for the leather to resume it's normal (dry) appearance, but feels cool when touched to my baby soft facial skin. (baby soft if I have shaved within the last three hours) At that time I stuff the shooter into it's final resting location within my current masterpiece and go to molding. I leave the shooter in place until the outer surface of the leather feels dry and warmish - again when touching the previously described location. Carefully removing the shooter, I wipe it down well with an oily cloth and leave the leather alone to completely dry -- inside and out --- at least for overnight as minimum. Just saying. Mike

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I used a press for some time, . . . then got to getting a lot of plastic fantastic shooters, . . . got afraid I'd over press one, . . . bust it, . . . so I went to a vacuum system.

I made my own bag from some vinyl bought at JoAn's fabric shop, . . . and it works great. Actually, I like it better than what I got with the press.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Harbor Freight 6 ton benchtop press with 1" thick 40 durometer rubber top and bottom sandwiched between two 1/4" thick plates. Its easy to press too hard though which compresses the leather too much for any real detail work. I mostly just use it to press the leather lightly and still do the detail work by hand. The press just halps me locate the lines and whatnot plus saves a ton of wear and tear on my thumbs.

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Thanks for the input. I might 'fiddle' with the idea of a vacuum sealer after Christmas. Wait ... I might just put that on my 'Wish List'. :thumbsup:

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Most common "home" vacuums will draw some moisture out of the product. Not enough, but the leather will keep a good form if handled carefully and allowed to dry. It does show the important lines if one would like to further form the holster. And, as stated, you can form while the vacuum exists.

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Just a note on vacuum presses and rubber. I tried to combine the two ideas, 40 durometer rubber sheet and a vacuum press. It doesn't work. I'm using these items for molding currently. http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Dura-Max-Elite-Polyurethane-Vacuum-Bag-2-x-4.html 2x4ft bag. http://www.veneersupplies.com/categories/Vacuum__Press__Items/Vacuum__Press__Kits/ the $82.50 kit on that link. http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html that pump. http://www.sculpey.com/products/tool/sculpey-style-detail-tools-set-3 3pc ball- end tool set http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/products/tools/clay-working-tools/bone-folder and a couple odd pieces I made from whitetail antler or wood.

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Casing your leather just like you would for tooling often helps with the detailing being crisper, especially when you are doing all the boning by hand. . Dunk the holster then bag it over night. Might be worth a try. Also, I think too often we see a holster molded too far, to where it looks like the pistol itself. That level of molding isn't necessary for retention. It might look cool to some, but I don't care for it.

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I use pretty much the same setup as Jake with the exception of the bag. I went cheap and use the vinyl bag. That's a mistake, spend the money for a good bag. When the vinyl bag wears out I will replace it with a poly bag. With the exception of the bag, I'm really happy with the results from this type of vacuum setup.

I used a food saver bag years ago when I first started molding leather. It worked okay, but the bags were a little pricey. I also tried the foam in a hydraulic press. The dedicated vacuum pump like Jake uses is a FAR superior method. It may seem a little expensive, but it does a really good job and makes the process a lot easier. I haven't tried a home vacuum cleaner and space saver type bags, but I would be surprised if they pulled enough vacuum to do an adequate job.

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