Jump to content
snubbyfan

Cuttin' Leather With A Bandsaw

Recommended Posts

I've been getting lotsa orders in lately.

Unfortunately, with my peripheral neuropathy, cuttin' leather can get to be a bit of a challenge.

I decided to try using my bandsaw.

It worked rather well.

Just gotta be careful, it cuts through leather almost effortlessly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now I wish I had a bandsaw. :bawling:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Being using a band saw for years now, especially when cutting soles for sandals. (Got the idea from a couple of older threads on here) Because I also dabble in woodworking, I also have a scroll saw that can do the job just as well.

If you don't have a band saw and want one, keep a look out on craigslist in your area for them. I didn't need another one but I got a great gently used 14" bandsaw for $150. New this thing cost $700. Of course you would need a space for something this big but the smaller bench top versions are listed for sale on craigslist all the time.

On another topic, you can also use your band saw to cut out acrylic templates of the patterns that you use the most. Print out your pattern on the printer, use spray adhesive to glue the printed template to your acrylic, and carefully cut it out. Take the acrylic to the sander to smooth out your edges and you have a template to use over, and over, and over........

Karina

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Karina,

Definitely +1 on getting a second band saw. I run one with knife edge blades and before I had the second saw, I had to change back and forth or try to cut something with the knife edge that should have been cut with a toothed blade. I used to look like I tried to take the Tomcat to the Vet after those blade changes. I now get into a full set of welding leathers before changing knife blades (and taking the Tom to the Vet).

Art

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Karina,

Definitely +1 on getting a second band saw. I run one with knife edge blades and before I had the second saw, I had to change back and forth or try to cut something with the knife edge that should have been cut with a toothed blade. I used to look like I tried to take the Tomcat to the Vet after those blade changes. I now get into a full set of welding leathers before changing knife blades (and taking the Tom to the Vet).

Art

I know what you mean, I have seen an old grisled band saw guru at a woodworking school just kinda walk up and throw the blade at it and it went on perfect The old one, a deft twist and it was triple coiled and into the box. Not a drop of blood. ...........Yeah right.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a blade welder. At one time we made product that required at least a dozen band blades per day. One of my bandsaws uses a 108" blade. You watch very carefully when handling any of them.

ferg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What type of band saw blade works best for cutting leather?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What type of band saw blade works best for cutting leather?

I found starrett knife edge band saw blades for 15 bux starting.

Here:

http://www.bandsawbladesking.com/bandsaw-blade-deals/band-knives/starrett-band-knives-razor-edge-band-knife/

less dust and cleaner cut edge than toothed blades.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used my bandsaw, table saw and even my drill press to drill my larger holes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've used a drill press in the past to drill holes...works will with a stiff backing.

What make, model or brand of band saw would you all recommend. I was looking at the Skil from Lowes for around $ 130. It is a bench top band saw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've used a drill press in the past to drill holes...works will with a stiff backing.

What make, model or brand of band saw would you all recommend. I was looking at the Skil from Lowes for around $ 130. It is a bench top band saw.

I owned a Skil bandsaw from Lowes and it worked great for the samll projects i was working on! It will definitely work well on leather. I outgrew my SKil and sold it on Craigslist. I now have a Craftsman 10" and a Laguna 14".

FYI - Sears has a Craftsman 9" for $107. I would go with the Craftsman over the Skil. (This might just be the Black Friday Holiday price, Not sure, but if you are going to get one, this would be the time to grab it.)

Karina

Edited by veedub3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Karina...I too would choose a Craftsman over a Skil.

The band saw is on my Christmas List...I'm hoping Santa will bring it. I will forward your information to Mrs Claus.

Also thank you TinkerTailor for the blade information.

Edited by Troy I

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The link listed above has options for blade type:

This band knife blade is designed with its “razor-edge” available in straight, scallop or wavy cutting edges and a single or double edge bevel. The Razor-Edge band knife by Starrett is ideal for cutting foam, rubber, cork, cardboard, paper and soft plastic.

May I ask which of these is the better blade?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm primarily a woodworker/furniture maker and have only recently begun leather work. I make shoes mostly and use my 18" bandsaw for cutting soles to shape after gluing to the midsole/upper. Works great. I also use my lathe for grinding/finishing edges using sanding drums since I can't justify the expense of a shoe repair line finisher. I occasionally use a 6"x48" stationary belt sander with 24 grit belts as well for edge grinding and sole roughing but it gets pretty tense using that tool which runs at 3600 rpm. Vee grooves are made with a super quality Swiss made vee carving chisel. It's amazing how many woodworking tools can serve a dual purpose for leather work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm primarily a woodworker/furniture maker and have only recently begun leather work. I make shoes mostly and use my 18" bandsaw for cutting soles to shape after gluing to the midsole/upper. Works great. I also use my lathe for grinding/finishing edges using sanding drums since I can't justify the expense of a shoe repair line finisher. I occasionally use a 6"x48" stationary belt sander with 24 grit belts as well for edge grinding and sole roughing but it gets pretty tense using that tool which runs at 3600 rpm. Vee grooves are made with a super quality Swiss made vee carving chisel. It's amazing how many woodworking tools can serve a dual purpose for leather work.

Same here. I used to do custom wood work.

Along with a bandsaw, I use a stationary belt and disc sander. I've got a sanding drum chucked up in my drill press for getting into those tight inside curves.

I've got a project coming up where I'll need to make a wooden blank for a cellphone holder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another use for the stationary belt/disc sander is for re-shaping wooden shoe lasts. I buy used maple lasts (some with pretty nice curl figure) off Ebay and re-shape them for my preferred profile.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How do you guide the leather through the bandsaw without stretching or otherwise distorting it?

If it is stretching and distorting, it is probably easier to do it with a knife anyways or you are not using proper technique.

I can't see how the saw would cause distortion in most veg tan leather if it is sharp, set up correctly and the user isn't forcing it. With proper technique, sideways blade pressure is eliminated on the work side of the blade to keep curves sharp. This involves cutting twice, once close to the line to remove most of the waste and again on the line to get a nice edge. Bandsaws do have a learning curve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been taking stiffer leathers into the woodworking shop for some time. I cut close to the line with the bandsaw, then finish the straight edges on the belt sander, convex radius' on the disk sander and concave radius' on the orbital spindle sander. It is quick and you get nice edges with a bit of practice. I have also had some success beveling edges on the router table with a corner bit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...