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Wondering if anyone has ran into this before. I've been using Ring blue guns for wet molding gun holsters for almost two years. I've noticed after a couple of holsters being tight that the blue gun that I've been using for the Glock 26 is smaller than my real Glock 26. The blue gun fits fairly loose in the holsters but the real gun is too tight. Do these plastic models wear after time or has it always been like that I just didn't notice it. I'm going to purchase an aluminum one for now but still have a couple of other blue guns that I use an am wondering if I'm going to run into the same issue with the different models. Any advice, remarks, or experience on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Gary

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I don't have a Glock 26, . . . but of the others I do have, . . . I have never had that problem.

The only issue I ever had was with a Springfleld 1911, an older stainless model, . . . the slide was definitely bigger than my mold, . . . and definitely bigger than a "standard" 1911. It was the only one I ever encountered, . . . but it did happen.

Put some duct tape on that puppy and build it up.

May God bless,

Dwight

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I don't have a Glock 26, . . . but of the others I do have, . . . I have never had that problem.

The only issue I ever had was with a Springfleld 1911, an older stainless model, . . . the slide was definitely bigger than my mold, . . . and definitely bigger than a "standard" 1911. It was the only one I ever encountered, . . . but it did happen.

Put some duct tape on that puppy and build it up.

May God bless,

Dwight

You know, that's a great idea!

Thanks..

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I don't have a Glock 26, . . . but of the others I do have, . . . I have never had that problem.

The only issue I ever had was with a Springfleld 1911, an older stainless model, . . . the slide was definitely bigger than my mold, . . . and definitely bigger than a "standard" 1911. It was the only one I ever encountered, . . . but it did happen.

Put some duct tape on that puppy and build it up.

May God bless,

Dwight

Dwight:

For a while Springfield Armory was making pistols with slides noticably larger than original spec's. They also made quite a few pistols with oversized frame-dust covers. It is best to inquire any time you receive an order for a S.A. pistol.

There is actually quite a bit of variation among the 1911-style pistols from various makers. I have several dummies and 28 pistols, but there are still quite a few weapons that I can't make holsters for.

I've never noticed Ring's blue guns shrinking, but all of mine show varying degrees of wear from repeated use. These still work well for holster forming.

Wet-forming of veg-tanned leather frequently involves considerable stretching of the leather fibers and, as the holster dries, some shrinkage will always occur. I dip-dye after forming, and see some shrinkage result from that also. Heavy applications of acrylic sealant can result in some shrinkage as well.

After the holster has been fully finished I test the fit. If it is overly tight I have found that putting the gun in a plastic bag, then forcing it into the holster pocket and leaving it overnight will usually result in just the right amount of stretching for a good final fit. Applying a bit of Johnson's Paste Wax to the outside of the plastic bag is another trick that works very well; the wax is taken up by the leather fibers at contact points and remains there as a lubricant. Paste wax will not hurt the leather or the pistol's finish (in fact, paste wax is a good way to protect steel from moisture during long-term storage). Neutral shoe polish will also give good results on holster interiors.

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Wondering if anyone has ran into this before. I've been using Ring blue guns for wet molding gun holsters for almost two years. I've noticed after a couple of holsters being tight that the blue gun that I've been using for the Glock 26 is smaller than my real Glock 26. The blue gun fits fairly loose in the holsters but the real gun is too tight. Do these plastic models wear after time or has it always been like that I just didn't notice it. I'm going to purchase an aluminum one for now but still have a couple of other blue guns that I use an am wondering if I'm going to run into the same issue with the different models. Any advice, remarks, or experience on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Gary

You want a tight holster. It will be final fit to the customer's gun after they receive it. A loose holster right from the get go is useless.

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Dwight:

For a while Springfield Armory was making pistols with slides noticably larger than original spec's. They also made quite a few pistols with oversized frame-dust covers. It is best to inquire any time you receive an order for a S.A. pistol.

There is actually quite a bit of variation among the 1911-style pistols from various makers. I have several dummies and 28 pistols, but there are still quite a few weapons that I can't make holsters for.

I've never noticed Ring's blue guns shrinking, but all of mine show varying degrees of wear from repeated use. These still work well for holster forming.

Wet-forming of veg-tanned leather frequently involves considerable stretching of the leather fibers and, as the holster dries, some shrinkage will always occur. I dip-dye after forming, and see some shrinkage result from that also. Heavy applications of acrylic sealant can result in some shrinkage as well.

After the holster has been fully finished I test the fit. If it is overly tight I have found that putting the gun in a plastic bag, then forcing it into the holster pocket and leaving it overnight will usually result in just the right amount of stretching for a good final fit. Applying a bit of Johnson's Paste Wax to the outside of the plastic bag is another trick that works very well; the wax is taken up by the leather fibers at contact points and remains there as a lubricant. Paste wax will not hurt the leather or the pistol's finish (in fact, paste wax is a good way to protect steel from moisture during long-term storage). Neutral shoe polish will also give good results on holster interiors.

I also dip dye after wet forming and have used the plastic bag with the gun overnight process. It does help. I'll try the paste wax next time. It's just really strange that I can insert the Ring dummy gun in the finished holster and it is much looser than using my actual gun of the same model. I really didn't start looking into this until I received three complaints in a row about the tightness of the holster. Thanks for the information.

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You want a tight holster. It will be final fit to the customer's gun after they receive it. A loose holster right from the get go is useless.

I completely agree but did receive three comments in a row from customers of their holsters being a little too tight. One guy was really nasty about it. They were all solved by placing their guns in a bag and leaving a day or two. What's really strange is when I insert the Blue gun in the finished holster it is very loose compared to the real gun. I of course don't want to send a customer a holster that is too loose like you said.

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I have encountered dummy guns from every manufacturer that are out of spec when I take a micrometer and compare them to the real pistol. It has not been a consitent problem, but occasionaly you will come across it. One of my Duncan pre-rail gun Glock 17s was so oversized a real Glock was loose, and I had a Rings HK P2000 that was quite undersized (polymers can shrink when curing); so always best to check it against a real pistol. I tried having a friend who does poly-resin casting make some dummy guns, and they were all undersized due to the shrinkage during curing and drying.

And if you are going to "build up" your undersized G26, used aluminum tape, not duct tape. The aluminum tape will build up better, last longer (the edges will not roll and curl from repeated use, and it is smooth so it will not imprint the inside of the holster with the duct tape woven pattern.

Edited by Mark Garrity

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I have encountered dummy guns from every manufacturer that are out of spec when I take a micrometer and compare them to the real pistol. It has not been a consitent problem, but occasionaly you will come across it. One of my Duncan pre-rail gun Glock 17s was so oversized a real Glock was loose, and I had a Rings HK P2000 that was quite undersized (polymers can shrink when curing); so always best to check it against a real pistol. I tried having a friend who does poly-resin casting make some dummy guns, and they were all undersized due to the shrinkage during curing and drying.

And if you are going to "build up" your undersized G26, used aluminum tape, not duct tape. The aluminum tape will build up better, last longer (the edges will not roll and curl from repeated use, and it is smooth so it will not imprint the inside of the holster with the duct tape woven pattern.

I'm purchasing an aluminum replacement put will try the alumimum tape on the undersized G26 so it can be used also. Thanks for the help...

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I completely agree but did receive three comments in a row from customers of their holsters being a little too tight. One guy was really nasty about it. They were all solved by placing their guns in a bag and leaving a day or two. What's really strange is when I insert the Blue gun in the finished holster it is very loose compared to the real gun. I of course don't want to send a customer a holster that is too loose like you said.

A tight holster is only a perceived problem because you haven't addressed it. Fitting instructions should be included with every order so it heads off any question as to whether or not a tight holster was intended.

:spoton:

I send my orders out with a thank you letter, fitting instructions and a receipt. You head off problems from the get go. That way you know when you do get call or note from a customer it is actually a problem and not just them all hot headed from being miseducated :whistle:

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I'm purchasing an aluminum replacement put will try the alumimum tape on the undersized G26 so it can be used also. Thanks for the help...

Where did you find the aluminum replica?

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