nicholas482109

That is a good idea, I can always glue it later if i felt the tacks were not working well. I thought 8 oz leather would be too thick though.

I'm finishing up making my stitching horse but the face of the jaws is not quite as smooth as i would like and I want to be absolutely sure that impressions won't be left on my leather. So I want to attach some leather to the face of the Jaw to provide a smooth as possible surface. The only thing is that I'm not sure how to do this, or what weight of leather to use. My idea is to wet the leather throughly, apply glue or cement, tack it onto jaw at the start then roll it on over each peice and tack it at the end and probably clamp it to ensure a flush attachment over each angle. This is the shape of the jaws. What type of glue have you used to bond leather to wood and what type of leather would be good for getting around those corners? Aslo, is wetting the leather a good idea?

Thanks for all the info guys. I think i have enough information to get in the right direction and experiment with some things to see how it works.

Thanks billymac, that was kind of what I was planning on doing once I get back into making some pieces. I'm finishing making a stitching horse since i'm tired of belt blanks. The back of Al Stohlman's "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" nhas prints on how to make it and it is fairly easy to follow.

Thanks for the replys. I tried with the sponge previously and was able to get even coats on a small peice. Should I wait until the first coat is totally dry before applying the second coat and is buffing between coats necessary?

Do I need to trim the wool down or so i want it long to absorb all a lot of dye?

I'm interested as well, could this info be posted here?

I have been dying some scraps with Eco-Flo Canyon Tan. I really like the color and I want to dye a belt in it but I have a hard time getting a even color when dying scraps. I can get a pretty nice finish to it when I throughly clean the leather with denatured alcohol then apply the dye with a dauber and throughly buffed with a cotton cloth. But it comes out pretty uneven, areas darker than others. I've had the idea to wet the leather once the alcohol dries, but will that only leave the same spots that an unclean peice of leather has when dyed? Also to use a sponge and likely have to do multiple coats. I'm all out of scraps now so I am coming here for some advice. Can anyone give me some advice on getting an even dye on a long peice of leather with water based dyes?

I've been doing leatherwork as a hobby for about 2 months now with varying success. I've done mainly belts from belt blanks from Tandy, since there is one near me. Most of what I've done is dyes and finishes. I've had some trouble getting the finishing to look the way I want but I've had good results finishing with acrylic resolene (50% water, 50% AR) in 3 or 4 thin coats. Do you guys have any other sugestions for finishing something liked a belt, made of veg-tanned leather, or other items that generally won't need recoditioning? I'm moving into making some items for outdoor use, starting with a rifle sling. I've done some reading on here that neatsfoot oil is a good product for outdoor items. I'm unsure how to use it, do oil the peice once I dyed it (I am aware this darken the material) then allow it to dry? Does this still require a finish to make sure the dye doesn't run? Or do I use a non-water based dye after oiling the item? I personally prefer spirit based dyes. Also, can you give me some info on how Atom Wax and Harness Dressing work? Those are two products I've read about but have never used. I saw them in the belt making tutorial on here and noticed he neatsfoot oiled the belt, applied harness dressing once it was dry, used hi-liter stain then applied Atom Wax. I don't understand that process, just looking for a little explanation. Thanks!