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Lambskin Dog Collar - Question On Finishing Seams And Lining

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I'm pretty new to machine sewing (Artisan Toro), and I've been learning by doing.

This is my first attempt at a lambskin dog collar. I'm happy with the stitching, the tension is right and the stitches are even. I wrappped the blue lambskin around a 4-5oz veg tan "stabilizer", and then cut another piece of lambskin for the lining to hide the seam at the back. I have two questions:

1. How do I finish the seam? I saw in a Youtube video that someone burned the thread ends with a match. Is that the right way to do it? Should I have attempted to backstitch two stitches (risking not going back exactly into the same holes)?

2. What's the best way to do a lining? I wasn't able to skive this lambskin, as it's incredibly soft. The edges stick out awkwardly and look... bad. How can this be improved? I'm temped to take a fine pair of scissors and try to cut it down as close to the seam as possible, as the glue is not near the edges.

What do you think?

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1. You could hand stitch two backstitches by hand. From trial and error I prefer to back stitch twice add a dab of white glue to the end of my awl and tuck the thread into the hole by pushing the awl through.

2.

Three possible ways you could experiment with

the outer layer could fold over the inner piece and stitch in place. Do measurements to add allowance for the thickness of leather and the thickness of the piece you need to fold over. Draw and cut out the pattern with registration marks.

Pre cut the lining to size and stitch

take the pattern of the lining shorten by a few mm's and cut out a piece of leather board/ plastic stiffener to that size. skive edge of leather with a very very sharp skiving knife or sandpaper/ dremel. fold the skived leather over the plastic to create the lining.

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On projects where I don't want to risk screwing up my back stich, I lave the thread really long and hand back stitch a few stitches and burn the ends. Seams to keep them in place nicely.

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For trimming the lining I recommend a pair of bandage scissors, available on eBay under medical supplies for around $8-$9.post-13610-0-58211200-1436599766_thumb.j

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My Toro very rarely will miss the holes in reverse so you should be safe . the trick is not to flip the reverse lever until you are on the up stroke about 1/4 inch from bottom position of needle if your really worried about it just flip the lever to reverse and run the wheel by hand . you can adjust where the needle is going that way . also make sure you are picking the foot up so the leather is free to maneuver and not mark up the surface of the leather . on that thin of leather I will make the edge a folded over seam so their is no edge to need finishing or another way to explain it make your bottom layer look like the top layer without the core. like where you folde it over at the hardware I dont know how far your sew line is set in but if you have enough room you may be able to slide a thin piece of plastic or even card board between the 2 layer and use a round knife or sharp knife to clean up your liner leather. make it more even . Nice collar I like your design

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Looks great! If you're not certain that your machine will backstitch into the same holes, just lower the needle all the way and manually turn the work around the needle so you can stitch forward into the same holes. I personally would do 3 stitches then pull both threads to the back, trim, and melt with a lighter quickly.

For the lining - I work in production leather and the way we would do this is to place your top piece on a rectangle larger than the collar -about 1/2" on all sides. After sewing, take some very sharp scissors and trim around, close enough to the stitching that the edges don't show from the front. The reason for the excess is to give you something to hold on to while trimming so you get a straight cut with no scissor marks.

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I burn my thread ends, and it's been working good for me, but I know you want durability so I think it's worth the risk back stitching. I know it'd add double the thickness, but you should fold the seam in again to get rid of the raw edges or paint them (that can get just as messy though). I was lucky enough to find a Brockman paring machine that can do my edges, but I sometimes get a new double edged razor blade with a binder clip at the end or use cut proof gloves with it to skive delicate leather like lambskin. I actually bought some Peachey paring knives recently, and if you can afford them, they are worth it! The english paring knives will work for you and they are $140 or $180. They can skive lambskin so easily. He's a great guy and he makes amazing knives that make skiving edges a dream. Check out jeffpeachey.com for those knives.

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