Yeldarb Report post Posted November 22, 2015 I have been working on learning to make messenger bags and keep running into the same issue whenI am stitching/chiseling. No matter how many times I measure beforehand I am ending up with a different number of holes on the main body of the bag vs the gusset. Any tips on how to figure out what I am doing wrong would be much appreciated. Thanks, Brad Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
25b Report post Posted November 22, 2015 Have you watched this video? ...and the others in the series also...Nigel explains why that happens and how to sew it. You basically have to stitch through some holes twice for it to end up right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidL Report post Posted November 22, 2015 I am assuming you pre punch the gusset while it is flat and then glue it? Perfecting your stitching technique will let you stitch straight. Check your awl as well. Just realized my blanchard was ever so slightly off center yet straight. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
9tpi Report post Posted November 23, 2015 Exactly what DavidL said. Only punch one side of the leather. Glue both pieces of leather together and use an awl to punch through the back side. if you punch both, and try to line them up, you will always run into the issue you are having. Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MonicaJacobson Report post Posted November 24, 2015 Good idea, Chris. I should be doing that. To solve the same problem, I have been using a square when I punch holes in the gusset. First, I punch the holes in the front and back, doing my best to make sure I punch the same number of holes. Then I cut the gusset long, and use a square to check every couple of inches to make sure I'm using the chisel evenly on both sides of the gusset. Once I've reached the same amount of holes on the front and back, I cut off the extra gusset length on both sides. So yes..... overly complicated, compared to what David and Chris are saying. But I don't have to worry about inconsistent stitching on the back. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidL Report post Posted November 24, 2015 (edited) To add: all my problems stopped when I thought for a minute why I was having consistent issues. The tweaks are always SO minor I glossed over them first time around, maybe even the first couple times. My own way, others wll differ.I sharpened my awl till it couldnt get any sharper, thinning out the point till it is rounded in profile (fit with the angle of the hole), sharpening the tip edge till the entire first 5 mm is sharp. The rest of the blade is dull. That is the most common way as far as I know. Leatherwrangler.com has an awl video that pierces through thick veg tan like it is butter, the entire blade edges down to the handle is sharp. Im curious to know if it weakens the stitch hole. Most improvement came when I place my awl in the hole I checked if it was right vertical, then horizontal on every stitch. Dont know if this is how everyone does it but I reckon its like billiards everyone shoots different. Edited November 24, 2015 by DavidL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MonicaJacobson Report post Posted November 24, 2015 You're right, David. It's just another area in which I need to pay attention and practice. Meanwhile... I have my cheat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
