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Randyc

Bulldog Avenger Holster

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I just finished this holster for a customers S&W J-Frame revolver. The pistol is an airweight model so I used 6/7 Hermann Oak cowhide. I'm finally able to build holsters from a right handers prospective after building numerous left handed holsters for myself.

Randy

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Shorts, I believe that's a round punch and a razor knife used to cut the belt slots. I have done that on most of my holsters and for some reason, I can never get the side of the slot lined up with the side of the hole punch.

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Shorts, I believe that's a round punch and a razor knife used to cut the belt slots. I have done that on most of my holsters and for some reason, I can never get the side of the slot lined up with the side of the hole punch.

Same here. I've found that I cannot do that method neat and clean. For now I just a hole punch all the way down the length of the slot. While easy, it leaves my belt slots with 'teeth'. :blush: I clean the slot up with the dremel and a stone but it just doesn't finish as nice as a solid oblong punch would. And I haven't found (haven't looked too hard either) an oblong punch that is wide enough for a belt slot in one punch.

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Tandy and I'm sure others make them, they're just prohibitivly expensive for me ( I can't afford a $50 punch). I'm seriously considering some Rigid conduit, a nice strong vice, and a grinding wheel :)

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The reason it's hard to get the punch hole even with the straight line is that they are cut at diffrent angels tandy does carry soon cheaper slot punches. Hope this helps,

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As I stated in another thread, I drill the holes at the top and bottom of the slot, then use a very sharp wood chisel to get a perfect line. Cheaper than Tandy punches, and you probably have a source for them right down the road (Lowe's, HD, Harbor Freight, etc).

I'd be interested to see what this holster looks like when someone is wearing it. ?? Randy, pics?

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Hey Guys and Ms. Shorts, thanks for the kind words. I used a round hole punch at both ends of the belt slot. I used a Tandy 1 1/2" bag punch to cut between the holes. I've also used wood chisels to cut my slots in the past.

I've gotten to be pretty good with the design of the tunnel/loop holsters for medium and large frame semi automatic pistols.

Building one for a J-Frame sub nosed revolver presented it's own unique challenges especially with an integrated tunnel loop/throat band.

First off, I had to cut the top of the holster down below the top of the cylinder to facilitate one handed re-holstering. If I ran the top of the holster to the top of the cylinder, the bottom of the cylinder would hit on the throat when re-holstering. Secondly, cutting the holster down for the cylinder limited me to 1.5" wide belt tunnel without throwing the holster's balance out of wack.

Dickf,

Sorry, no photos of me wearing this one. This one already on it's way to Florida. (Wish I were too)

Randy

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This one already on it's way to Florida. (Wish I were too)

Randy

Amen brother! :)

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Very nice job Randy, looks excellent.

Question on the dye and finish, what dye did you use and how did you seal it to prevent any rub off and such.

Also for the people looking for the punches and such from Tandy, get on the emailing list/mailing list/wholesale club member. Once you have that then wait for sales and check all the resources. Ive rarely if ever paid full price for something from tandy, usually about half price.

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Madmax

Thanks for the kind words. I used 2 coats Fieblings USMC black. I rub the risidual dye off between coats and after the second coat. I finish with a coat of Acrylic Resolene.

Randy

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