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Edges On Leather

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So I've read the sticky on "Finishing edges" and searched many threads on leather finishes and can't find what I'm looking for.

My question is...

I work out of my apartment and can't/don't have access to any type of equipment... Which sucks.

Is there a cheap/easier way (maybe more labor intense) to smooth the edges on my leather projects? I hate the dull and rough look when I'm done so much, that I tend to hand lace the edges of everything... Maybe like regular sand paper? Or is there a certain sandpaper or finish product I need to do this?

Again, I can't use any type of belt/beveler... Just curious.

Thanks and God Bless

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A sharp Tandy #2 edger, a brick of glycerine saddle soap, a little water, and rub with a canvas cloth.. Worked for me for years and I got a professional finish.

Sand with 150+=- grit till smooth, edge both sides,wet, rub with soap, slick with the cloth briskly.

done

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So I've read the sticky on "Finishing edges" and searched many threads on leather finishes and can't find what I'm looking for.

My question is...

I work out of my apartment and can't/don't have access to any type of equipment... Which sucks.

Is there a cheap/easier way (maybe more labor intense) to smooth the edges on my leather projects? I hate the dull and rough look when I'm done so much, that I tend to hand lace the edges of everything... Maybe like regular sand paper? Or is there a certain sandpaper or finish product I need to do this?

Again, I can't use any type of belt/beveler... Just curious.

Thanks and God Bless

What I do , and many others from what I've read is to use an edge beveler tool on both the top and bottom edges. I then do all of my stamping/tooling. Then dye - including the edges if needed.

Next I take a wet sponge, and dipping a side in water, and rubbing it on saddle soap, then use that to wet the edges only. You don;t have to go crazy, but you need them damp.

Since you can't use power tools, you can use a round plastic pulley wheel type of slicker, or, what many do is to use a piece of coarse canvas to burnish them. If I don't feel like going down to the shop and am doing a single collar, for example, I'll take the canvas in one hand, put the strap in it and use the grooves of my fingers and thump to create a channel, pull the strap through while applying pressure. It doesn't take long to get a nice hard edge.

I finish the edges with edge dressing most of the time.

Instead of the saddle soap, you can also use Gum Trag which will seal the edges. Same procedure as above.

Tom

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Hey guy, I don 't have any of that fancy stuff. I've always sanded by hand and used yellow saddle soap. I k now Bobby Parks puts beeswax on it the first time, so I just got my first beeswax since I've worked in leather to do the guitar strap with. I've always been happy with the other way though. I use old jeans to burnish the edges after the saddle soap because I have that. Just cut of a piece off the denim and rub the edges after the saddle soap, and tighten the fibers like the tutorial says, then dye them. The back pockets are really great, fit your hand pretty good:-) What Tom does I do when I'm all finished to soften everything up, and make sure there isn't any dye coming off the edges OR the project itself. Cheryl

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Hey guy, I don 't have any of that fancy stuff. I've always sanded by hand and used yellow saddle soap. I k now Bobby Parks puts beeswax on it the first time, so I just got my first beeswax since I've worked in leather to do the guitar strap with. I've always been happy with the other way though. I use old jeans to burnish the edges after the saddle soap because I have that. Just cut of a piece off the denim and rub the edges after the saddle soap, and tighten the fibers like the tutorial says, then dye them. The back pockets are really great, fit your hand pretty good:-) What Tom does I do when I'm all finished to soften everything up, and make sure there isn't any dye coming off the edges OR the project itself. Cheryl

I made the mistake early on, of doing my atom wax and first resist coat of Super Sheen/Resolene before burnishing my edges. I found that it would sometimes seal parts of the edge a bit so the water/saddle soap wouldn't absorb well.

So now, I do the edging and burnishing first. Then the wax/coatings. THEN my antiquing , edge coating then sealing. Works for me rolleyes.gif

Tom

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Oh all finished was a 1/2 thought :-) I do that after I dye or paint or both a project but before the sealer. And I've never used the wax before because I just got it so I hope beeswax doesn't keep me from doing the saddle soap, etc. and so on :-(

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Oh all finished was a 1/2 thought :-) I do that after I dye or paint or both a project but before the sealer. And I've never used the wax before because I just got it so I hope beeswax doesn't keep me from doing the saddle soap, etc. and so on :-(

Just remember to practice first, of course <g>

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It would be the first time if I did :-) If I ever finish my dragon camp stool seat for this months challenge I can practice on that because it's for me. Seriously, I will remember because I've had it pounded into my head the last couple days :-)

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You can get the wood slicker from tandy cheap $12.00. Sand the edges and use a #2 or #3 keen or regular edger. Than apply Gum Tragacanth to the edge and slick with the wooden slicker. I use denim for the places I cant get the slicker. Works great and isnt too hard at all

There you have it. Several ways to do it by hand. All work.

Michael

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Awesome guys and gals!

THanks for the input! I will be getting my saddle soap this week to do a customers wallet and dog collar, will post the results!

(these are for more family and friends for a little side cash, Not that THAT gives me a reason to no do as good, just stating for the people thinking... "Man, who the heck is this guy!? selling stuff and hes such a noob!" lol)

Thanks and God Bless

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Hey guy, I don 't have any of that fancy stuff. I've always sanded by hand and used yellow saddle soap. I k now Bobby Parks puts beeswax on it the first time, so I just got my first beeswax since I've worked in leather to do the guitar strap with. I've always been happy with the other way though. I use old jeans to burnish the edges after the saddle soap because I have that. Just cut of a piece off the denim and rub the edges after the saddle soap, and tighten the fibers like the tutorial says, then dye them. The back pockets are really great, fit your hand pretty good:-) What Tom does I do when I'm all finished to soften everything up, and make sure there isn't any dye coming off the edges OR the project itself. Cheryl

Cheryl, I think you need to re-read Hidepounder's tutotial. He first applies glycerin soap to the edge and then goes to the saddle soap. He states Beeswax may work, but he doesn't use it as the dye won't penetrate as it should. He dies after the burnishing is finished, and the applies parafin wax as a final polish to the edge. It if a person is using Gum tag and edge coating, then this process won't matter as you are really painting the edge rather than dying and penetration doesn't matter. IMHO, a dyed edge as done by Hidepounder is in a completely different league than a painted edge. It takes work, and can be completely done without any power equipment.

Just wanted to let you know before you end up with something you didn't want.

Terry

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Terry I did reread it today for the bridle I'm making. You're absolutely right, I had it completely wrong about the beeswax. As far as painting the edges, maybe I forgot the thread already, LOL but I'm not using anything but dye on this. And I think done his way yourself, you still aren't in his league. Just something we can aspire to :-)

Thanks though for writing although I've already finished the edge and dye on one part of the bridle, I didn't use beeswax, just my good old saddle soap and denim. Cheryl

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