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XSport

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About XSport

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  1. Weird, I use 8-9oz, plus a 2-3 oz liner and a 3-4oz filler. They are a little heavey, but I'm not trying to compete with the stuff on the shelf, I want something nice. I'm a player myself so......they don't seem oddly thick to me. The biggest problem is where they hook on to the guitar. They can get really deformed and downright dangerous if the leather is too thin.
  2. Hey, I thought I would revive this thread as I just bought some swivel knifes and probably bought too much stuff because I couldn't find this particular info on the web. I'm fairly new to leather and thought I would try some different knives. I bought some Barry King's because they were available here in Canada (Longview Leather in Alberta). First I bought a 3/8 barrel and a 3/8" angle blade. As for the barrell, I think the advantage of a thin barrell is that you can turn it a little easier so it is really nice for tight carving, like details of 1/2" lettering or flowers and leaves in small areas. However, i find that because I have to squeeze my hand together more, I fatigue quicker than I do with a larger barrell. I think the ball bearing swivel also helps as it just feels better as you turn it. As for the blades, I did not like the angle blade at all. I found that because I was holding the knife straight up and down all the time, it put my hand in an awkward position. I don't know how to describe it other than to say that it made it feel like the knife was too long for my hand. Also I found it was hard to get nice decorative cuts because only the very tip of the blade was in the leather. Because the cut was so thin (on 2-3oz), it was difficult to bevel it after too. Later, I bought a 1/2" barrel and a 5/8" barrel Barry King at Longview.....I know it sounds crazy but at $40 plus blade, I don't really think they are that expensive......anyway, as expected the bigger barrels feel very nice and comfortable and they turn very nicely in your hand, but you just can't cut as tight of a curve as you can with the 3/8". That being said, the difference is not huge. I also bought a few different blades....all of them straight....I bought the 3/8" Thin, a 1/4" Thick, and a 1/4" Thin.....I wouldn't get the thick and thin in the 1/4", because for me, the differnence is marginal on 2 to 3 oz leather, but maybe it will make a bigger difference on 8 to 9oz. I actually wanted the thick one in a 3/8, but Longview didn't have them in stock, I think the 3/8" might be noticeably thicker and may give nice thick decorative "feather cuts". I really like the straight blades better because you can vary the angle to do different things with it. Like if you need a nice straight line or long sweeping curve, just tilt it upright and get more of the blade in the leather. If you need a tight turn, tilt it away so that it rotates better. BTW, I think I could have done just fine without the 1/4" blades at all, the 3/8" looks a lot bigger but functions almost the same. Anyway, that's my 2 cents. I had trouble finding this info before I bought the Barry King's and probably over bought because of it. My recomendation if you can only have one.......a standard 1/2" Barrel with a 3/8" straight blade......maybe a thick blade depending on what you are doing. I guess it says something that this is the format for all the basic Swivel Knifes at Tandy. Cheers!
  3. I just wanted to throw my 2 cents in on this subject if I could. I am pretty new, but feel I can add something. For perspective I'm 5'8" and about 190lb, fairly strong but not a weightlifter or anything like that. I work an office job but have spent a lot of time working on renovations and other wood based projects. I'm pretty accurate and effective with a hammer and nails. I started off with the basic cheap yellow plastic Tandy hammer. The biggest improvement I made was getting a piece of granite from Tandy. It really makes a differnce for noise and striking something solid, the stamping is much easier. I just bought a 20oz Barry King Maul at Longview Leather in Alberta, Canada. I find it, just a little bit tricky to hit the stamp square, but it is only a marginal difference and it's getting better with each strike.....but again I'm pretty good with a steel hammer and nails so, take that for what it's worth. The thing I really notice though is the weight. I find I only have to tap the stamps, really, really lightly to get the impression. I've only tried stamping on 2 to 3 oz leather so also take that for what it's worth, but right now I would say the 20oz is a little heavy for me for light stamping, but might be better on the 8 to 9oz. I find that with a maul, I fatigue easy because I have to hold my elbow out to the side to strike the stamp perpendicular. Because of these experiences I plan to get a 14oz tapered maul soon from Barry King as this will allow me to drop my elbow and I won't have to be so gentle due to the weight. The 20oz is a really nice weight (for me) for hole punches and stitching punches on 8-9 oz with a 2 to 3 oz backing, for a total of 10 to 12 oz of leather plus glue. The Barry King Maul's seem really nice. An impressive tool for sure and about half the price of the ones at Tandy. I also bought his swivel knife and really like that too.
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