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Need some help with a saddle

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Hello,

New saddlemaker here with a question or two. I just got an order for a saddle where the back jockeys and the skirts are all in one with an inskirt rigging. Its a first for me. The customer wants it stout enough to rope some out of as well as chase cans. I am going to try and put a picture on here to show what I mean. Anyway, my question is how are these put together? Can I put the rigging in stout enough for roping? I am stumped here. I'm sure the answer is easy but I just can't get a handle on it. Any help or pointers in the right direction would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jake

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Hello,

New saddlemaker here with a question or two. I just got an order for a saddle where the back jockeys and the skirts are all in one with an inskirt rigging. Its a first for me. The customer wants it stout enough to rope some out of as well as chase cans. I am going to try and put a picture on here to show what I mean. Anyway, my question is how are these put together? Can I put the rigging in stout enough for roping? I am stumped here. I'm sure the answer is easy but I just can't get a handle on it. Any help or pointers in the right direction would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jake

Jake,

You are asking a question that has several possible variables. There are several threads discussing the attributes of in-skirt riggings. They are certainly strong enough to rope with if produced correctly. They are strongest if hooked over the tree bars both in front of the swells, and in back of the cantle. The saddle you want to build would be best if the rigging plate that is on the outside is all one piece of leather and covers the entire back of the skirt. It is harder to fasten to the tree as you can't put screws in the bar behind the cantle concho. Attached is a drawing of an in-skirt rigging that I use. You would simply cut the rigging larger to extend to the back of the skirt. It can be any shape of skirt that you wish.

Hope that helps,

Keith

saddles_inskirt.JPG

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Thanks for the information. With the back skirt and riggings all one piece is it very hard to get the tree into the skirts and rigging or do you end up hand sewing around the front of the skirts after they are on the tree? All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Jake

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They go on okay fully stitched together. I use a long screwdriver with a round shaft (about 16" long) as a bar between the tree and front rigging and slide the rigging up around the front bar. It usually goes on good... but is hard to get off. Put a screw into the swell through the skirt just above the bar to hold the skirt and rigging from slipping off of the tree.

Keith

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Jake,

You are asking a question that has several possible variables. There are several threads discussing the attributes of in-skirt riggings. They are certainly strong enough to rope with if produced correctly. They are strongest if hooked over the tree bars both in front of the swells, and in back of the cantle. The saddle you want to build would be best if the rigging plate that is on the outside is all one piece of leather and covers the entire back of the skirt. It is harder to fasten to the tree as you can't put screws in the bar behind the cantle concho. Attached is a drawing of an in-skirt rigging that I use. You would simply cut the rigging larger to extend to the back of the skirt. It can be any shape of skirt that you wish.

Hope that helps,

Keith

Keith is right. Besure to take your rigging in the rear over the top of the bars behind the cantle. I actually lace both sides together. Here is a picture of one I did that is a slight take off of the sketch that Keith provided.

Happy Trails!

Bondo Bob

saddles_inskirt.JPG

MVC_128S.JPG

MVC_128S.JPG

post-8161-1233605599_thumb.jpg

post-8161-1233605812_thumb.jpg

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Jake, here's another way of doing like you asked.

scan11.jpg

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Edited by Bob

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Thanks for the help and the tips. I really appreciate it. I will post some pictures when I get it done. Thanks again.

Jake

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You could also install a dee ring for the back rigging the same way you would install it for a front, with a plug, two stitch lines and rivets to hold it in. Chris

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