ArcherBen Report post Posted February 2, 2009 I just received some shark and stingray that I'm going to use to build a checkbook cover out of. The shark is thiner than I had expected (probably 3ish oz) so I am considering lining it with a piece of 5-6 oz cowhide on the inside just to stiffen it up a little so that it will keep it's shape. Does anybody have any input as to whether this is a good idea, or should I just run with the shark skin and the basic interior of a wallet/checkbook? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted February 2, 2009 My opinion: don't do it. It will be too thick. I make all of my carved wallets out of 3-4 oz veg tan, lined with a thin pigskin. They are not thick and bulky like most tooled wallets are. Thin is better ofr comfort of the wearer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArcherBen Report post Posted February 2, 2009 Thanks for the advice. That's the way I'm leaning at this point after taking another look at a test piece that I did this morning to figure out the edge binding. After seeing how thick it will be with the shark body, pig liner, pig lined pockets, and goat skin binding, I've decided it will be thick enough and hopefully stiff enough as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CitizenKate Report post Posted February 3, 2009 Ben, I've made quite a few checkbook covers from softer, lighter leather, and I agree with electrathon about not lining it with something that heavy. It really doesn't take much to firm up a light, soft material, even something as light as a satin fabric. You can also just make the pockets out of something a little stiffer, but light, such as calfskin, or a light veg-tanned goatskin, and just that alone will give the item a firmer hand, while leaving the spine nice and supple. Kate Amended: Oops, I should have read further down in the thread before responding. It looks like you're already headed that direction. Cheers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArcherBen Report post Posted February 3, 2009 Thanks for the reply Kate. It's the advice and information from all of you experts here that has sped up my learning curve so much. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArcherBen Report post Posted February 4, 2009 Okay, I've got another question. I've found a piece of fabric that I think will go well with the checkbook cover that I'm building. I would like to use it as the liner against the backside of the sharkskin. What is the best way to attach the fabric (it's fairly thin) to the sharkskin? I was planning on using WeldWood contact cement, but after applying it to the back fabric I noticed that it was penetrating clear through the fabric and I'm concerned about this causing problems. Input? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted February 4, 2009 Spraying the glue on is the solution. It will not saturate that way. Unfortionatly, I do not have an easy answer to making a cheap home glue sprayer (I personally would like to know how to do it too). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CitizenKate Report post Posted February 4, 2009 There are spray adhesives you can buy, which would probably be perfect for that. Just look in the adhesive section of your local craft store. I've also used a stick adhesive called a Craft Stick, which has stronger adhesive than a regular glue stick, and that also will not saturate a light, thin fabric. It dries clear and flexible. Kate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JustWakinUp Report post Posted February 4, 2009 Okay, I've got another question. I've found a piece of fabric that I think will go well with the checkbook cover that I'm building. I would like to use it as the liner against the backside of the sharkskin. What is the best way to attach the fabric (it's fairly thin) to the sharkskin? I was planning on using WeldWood contact cement, but after applying it to the back fabric I noticed that it was penetrating clear through the fabric and I'm concerned about this causing problems. Input? 3M 90 is the best way, just don't overspray but get enough on the piece to hold it and also as you're putting the fabric down pat lightlty so the glue doesn't penetrate the fabric. You may want to wait a few seconds 30 at most before applying the fabric to the shark. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted February 4, 2009 Has anyone found any spray can glue that is truely permanant, similar to barge? My experience with all (I have tried a lot of them) spray cans is that it is closer to rubber cement, and will not hold over the long term. It is more for assembly only. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CitizenKate Report post Posted February 4, 2009 Have you tried Duro All-Purpose Spray Adhesive? I have used that to permanently attach a rubber surface onto a draft table. The package says: - Clear, works fast, bonds strong. - PERMANENT Bond - spray BOTH surfaces. - REPOSITIONABLE Bond - spray ONE surface. Adhesive remains tacky. Works on: paper, fabrics, leather, cardboard, foil, foams, metal, wood, plastics, rubber, felt, and cork. Kate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArcherBen Report post Posted February 5, 2009 A big thanks to everybody for the suggestions. I tried looking for some 3M 90, but couldn't find any so I ended up using the Duro all-purpose adhesive and it worked out great! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HellcatLeathers Report post Posted February 7, 2009 Contact cement works fine for me.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
