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Max Thread Size For Singer 153W101

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I have a Singer 153w101 and have been using 138 bonded nylon top and bottom on 2 layers of 5-6 oz oil tanned for bags and a 22 leather needle, I'm happy with the way it works. I can also sew 2 layers 8/9 oz vegtan with the same thread/needle combo, I've polished the dog so the tracks are very minimal even on the vegtan.

My situation is this , gun store I help out at wants some holsters but cheaper than I care to hand stitch them for. Can I run 207 in my Singer? I will buy a heavy stitcher soon but if I can fill a few orders for him in the meantime and save the hand stitching for my customers can I do it? I say 207 top and bottom because even if I run 277 top its still only as strong as the weaker thread.

Thanks everyone

Jeremy

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Pre-load some tightly wound bobbins with #207. Buy pre-lubricated thread and use it top and bottom, Wind the top thread once around the post on top of the machine for added resistance. Set her up with a #24 leather point needle and screw down the pressure spring on the presser foot. You'll probably have to screw down the upper tension spring in all the way to pull the knots up into the bottom layer.

Sew slowly, at about 1 or 2 stitches per second. If you are careful, you can turn out some pancake holsters on that machine, with #207, pre-lubricated thread.

Don't expect the machine to perform flawlessly using this setup, or for very long. You will be pushing it beyond its 9th life.

Edited by Wizcrafts

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Thanks. I don't want to ruin my machine in the process, I'm kinda fond of it. I'd probably handwheel most of it anyway.

Jeremy

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In the event you purchase a bigger machine and want to sell the Singer let me know, Id be interested in it.

Thanks. I don't want to ruin my machine in the process, I'm kinda fond of it. I'd probably handwheel most of it anyway.

Jeremy

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I neglected to specify that you should loosen the bobbin tension screw until there is just a slight pull on the thread. This will give the top tension a little breathing room for adjustment. Ya see, if you screw the top spring all the way in, there is no room left for the disks to move apart and free the thread, when you raise the feet to remove the work.

Also, insert the bobbin so it feeds backwards into the slot in the bobbin case. This helps prevent your tightly wound bobbins from unloading into the case as you speed up and slow down..

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Billy

I'll keep you in mind, but I don't see myself selling it though, made a flatbed for it so its pretty versital for me and sews the bags I make really well.

Wiz

Sounds like more work than its worth, especially since its running really nice right now.

Jeremy

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No problem, I figured I'd ask, I'd like to add a small cylinder arm machine.

Back on your topic though, how many holsters need stitched? It would probably be worth your while to outsource the stitching rather than try to mess up your machine or hand stitch them. Plus they will look better and be stronger with a heavier thread. If you had all your stitching lines marked it wouldn't cost much for one of us to stitch them up and send them back.

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Billy

Never hurts to ask. I like the 153w101, I think the CB2700 is its clone with reverse. If you find get it.

I've 6 iwbs laying here now for the "shop" , he wants 6 more owb with a thumb break and I think 6 without, and I think we got more blueguns coming. I am working on getting a bigger machine to do those orders saving the hand stitching for my personal customers, not that im back logged with those. Some people appreciate it more than others and are willing to pay a bit more for the hand work. I do have a friend a bit over an hours drive has offered me use of his Pro 2000 , might have to do that in the interim.

Jeremy

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I'm waiting for Bob to get more of the 227r in and will probably get one of those. I probably would have had one in December when I was there but the one he had was sold. I wouldn't pass on a used singer or something similar though. I'm still debating trading in my 206rb for one or keeping it and buying a used machine.

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Don't get rid of your Consew Billy. You may need it to sew vests.

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Couldn't he just put the flat table attachment on the cylinder arm in place of his 206?

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Thats kinda what I was thinking

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That's what I was thinking too actually. bob keeps talking me out of it though. I do use the Consew for sewing zippers in jackets and some large patches on vests/ jackets but I feel I could do that all on a cylinder machine with a flat bed attachment. I'm not too worried about the smaller bobbin size because I'm not doing big production work and I just don't use it that often, most of the things I make and the things I repair need a cylinder arm machine which leaves me to either use the 4500 or a patcher. The 4500 works for most things but its too big for some without making a lot of adjustments to use the thinner thread sizes and you can't use leather point needles for thinner threads. I could just wait and buy one outright and keep the 206 but there's some other things higher on the priority list so I'd be waiting a while. I'm picking up a Claes patcher this weekend which is going to tie up my machine money. Bob doesn't have one yet so I have some time to think about it.

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That's what I was thinking too actually. bob keeps talking me out of it though. I do use the Consew for sewing zippers in jackets and some large patches on vests/ jackets but I feel I could do that all on a cylinder machine with a flat bed attachment. I'm not too worried about the smaller bobbin size because I'm not doing big production work and I just don't use it that often, most of the things I make and the things I repair need a cylinder arm machine which leaves me to either use the 4500 or a patcher. The 4500 works for most things but its too big for some without making a lot of adjustments to use the thinner thread sizes and you can't use leather point needles for thinner threads. I could just wait and buy one outright and keep the 206 but there's some other things higher on the priority list so I'd be waiting a while. I'm picking up a Claes patcher this weekend which is going to tie up my machine money. Bob doesn't have one yet so I have some time to think about it.

What thread do you normally use on the 4500 , and how much smaller can you go without adjusting a bunch of stuff?

I just put the table on my 153w101 today, took about 60 seconds, actually took me longer to find my C clamps than to install it.

Talked to Steve, got a Juki Pro 2000 on its way to me.

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I normally run 277 on my 4500 for my holsters and belts. I can go from 138 to 346(never tried anything bigger) without changing tension. 92 takes some adjustment and I haven't tried anything thinner than that with it. I really think I'd use a 227r or something similar a whole lot more than I use the 206rb. I may just keep my eyes open for something used and keep the Consew though, it would probably cost about the same as trading in my Consew for a new 227r and since I don't really "need" it I can get by with what I have until I find the right deal on one. Plus after I get the Claes patcher I'm going to move my Adler into the secondary or backup patcher and sell the Singer I have that is my current backup so I can use that money towards something, I also have a post machine that I don't often use that I could probably do without.

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Billymac What post bed machine do you have? I have a singer 136-100 I might like one with a longer stitch. I use it quite a bit on canvas & nylon bags with 4 oz leather bottoms.

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Mine is a Singer 51w31. I'm not too familiar with post he'd machines so I don't know how that compares to the one you have.

Billymac What post bed machine do you have? I have a singer 136-100 I might like one with a longer stitch. I use it quite a bit on canvas & nylon bags with 4 oz leather bottoms.

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