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Here is a another tooled Avenger style holster for a 4.25" 1911. The customer wanted it antiqued. I may have to stop antiquing them, as two coats of Satin Sheen then a coat of Antique really hinders the absorption of water for forming. I have to let the holster soak for a very long time to get the entire holster wet, and the slow absorption tends to affect the dye distribution leaving darker areas at the spots that took the longest to get completely wet. Dark colored thread - no problem, as I can antique it as a final step in the finishing process (before a final sealer), but when using natural/white thread, I have to do it very early in the build process.

On a side note, I've been using a vacuum to help initially form the holsters which I think really helps to draw some of the excess moisture out of the leather from the overly long soaking phase.

1070387553_Tv49y-XL.jpg

Here is one where I was able to antique it towards the end since it had dark thread.

1070369093_udu3Y-XL-1.jpg

Here is another I did a while back that shows similar dye pooling. I think some customers like the variation in color, but it sure is a pain to work with once they're sealed up like that.

911778816_J5GhC-XL.jpg

For comparison, here is a holster without antique applied. You can really tell a difference and it really emphasizes the need for the antique step. LOL - I talk myself out of it, then I see this picture and it all seems worth it again.

974071877_uMnSe-XL.jpg

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Dude, you just make some freakin' nice holsters. :You_Rock_Emoticon:

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I will second that (those a re some freaken nice holsters) What thickness is the holster made from and how do you get such nice crisp shape of the weapon, I have never gotten any thing that crisp.

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Thanks fellas! The leather is 8-9 oz Herman Oak. Regarding the sharp lines, it's really nothing special - just lots of work with the bone folder. I probably work with the leather more damp than most prefer, but I think the leather stretches easier for the initial forming if it has more moisture in it. Once it dries a bit, you can come back and rub over the lines again to burnish the various indentations.

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I always click on your new topics when you post photos of your new work because I know I won't be disappointed. Beautiful work, as always, Eric.

Kate

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Here is a another tooled Avenger style holster for a 4.25" 1911. The customer wanted it antiqued. I may have to stop antiquing them, as two coats of Satin Sheen then a coat of Antique really hinders the absorption of water for forming. I have to let the holster soak for a very long time to get the entire holster wet, and the slow absorption tends to affect the dye distribution leaving darker areas at the spots that took the longest to get completely wet. Dark colored thread - no problem, as I can antique it as a final step in the finishing process (before a final sealer), but when using natural/white thread, I have to do it very early in the build process.

On a side note, I've been using a vacuum to help initially form the holsters which I think really helps to draw some of the excess moisture out of the leather from the overly long soaking phase.

1070387553_Tv49y-XL.jpg

Here is one where I was able to antique it towards the end since it had dark thread.

1070369093_udu3Y-XL-1.jpg

Here is another I did a while back that shows similar dye pooling. I think some customers like the variation in color, but it sure is a pain to work with once they're sealed up like that.

911778816_J5GhC-XL.jpg

For comparison, here is a holster without antique applied. You can really tell a difference and it really emphasizes the need for the antique step. LOL - I talk myself out of it, then I see this picture and it all seems worth it again.

974071877_uMnSe-XL.jpg

As always Particle, you do great work. Mike

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Thanks again for the compliments. I used 277 thread top and bottom. They're sewn with the Tippmann Boss, and I ordered the thread and needles from Tippmann as well. From their site - "Durable, bonded, hi-strength American Efird nylon thread."

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Man! Some more cool pics of some sweet holsters!! Keep em coming! Great work as always!

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Eric;

Those are very nice. I'm amazed that you get such definition out of 8/9 leather. I've been using7/8 and the results haven't been near as good. I guess I'm not soaking the leather enough. This is the first time I've tried soaking after staining, so I'm probably a bit too cautious with it.

Also, I tried "baking" the holster as you show in your video and was very pleased with the results. It seems that makes it stiffer yet.

Thanks for posting.

Russ

Thanks again for the compliments. I used 277 thread top and bottom. They're sewn with the Tippmann Boss, and I ordered the thread and needles from Tippmann as well. From their site - "Durable, bonded, hi-strength American Efird nylon thread."

Edited by Russ

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Particle,

Could you let us know the color and manufacturer of dyes and antiques you used on these holster. I haven't been working with leather for very long and finally I am making something for myself, a portfolio kit from Tandy. I like what I have carved, my company logo on one side and an Archangel on the other. I have really stuggled on what color to dye this project. In fact I carved the leather 4-5 months ago.

Thanks,

John

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Hi John - the leather is Herman Oak, and the dyes are Fiebing's Pro Oil Dyes -the colors are Light Brown for the top holster, Dark Brown with Black Airbrushed Accents for the second holster / mag pouch pair. My personal favorite is light brown with dark brown airbrushed accents, with the dark brown sprayed on pretty heavily towards the edge. The antique was Tandy's Eco-Flo Dark Brown Gel Antique. I always apply my dyes with an airbrush and the antique per the instructions on the bottle. Make sure you put on a couple good coats of finish/resist before you apply the antique...

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Thank You!

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Oh my!! Now that's why I just joined this forum!! If that isn't inspiration I don't know what is... Beautiful Work!!

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