Need Advice on Making Utility Tool Sheath

[ToddB 68]

Hi Everyone !

I'm a Newbie to leather work, although have made a few simple tool pouches in the past using brass rivets (no stitching experience.).

One of my hobbies is metal detecting and I made a digging tool for recovering lost coins, jewelry and relics at public parks, etc.. This tool can deal with rocks that occasionally get in the way, without bending or breaking. Attached are photos of the tool and drawing of a leather sheath I would like to make for it. This will be my first serious leather project.

I have a large piece of tanned cow hide, light tan colored. It appears to be a side section, is stiff, and the thickness around the edges varies from .140" to .210", as measured with a micrometer. I believe the nominal leather weight would be considered 9 oz. .

I plan to glue and stitch the pieces together by hand, adding a reinforcing rivet at each of the upper corners. I have ordered a book on stitching, titled The Art of Hand Sewing Leather, by Al Stohlman, to get ideas on different types of stitching. I am shooting for a plain, but pleasing, appearance, no decorations, except I would like the edges of the completed sheath to be slightly rounded, dyed black and polished to a soft shine. After the sheath is completed, I may use neatsfoot oil as a preservative, however, since this will darken the leather, I might decide to use a non-darkening preservative to retain the natural light tan color of the leather; this might give a more attractive contrast with the black dyed and polished edges. I like both appearances, but undecided right now.

The floor of the sheath is a hard rubber block for the tip of the tool to rest on. I would shape the rubber for a snug fit inside the leather after construction of the sheath is completed , then glue and nail the block in place, using small brass round-headed pin-nails. The block will be made from two thickness of 1/4" thick rubber belting, which I have on hand, glued together. All surfaces to be glued will be roughened with sandpaper for good bonding.

I am wondering if I should integrate an over-strap with a snap, at the upper end of the tool handle, so the tool doesn't flop around in the open cavity of the sheath. If so, I guess the fixed end of the over-strap would be best anchored with a single rivet, rather than sewn.

Looking for opinions, advice and/or criticisms, to help me through this project.

Thanks much guys & dolls !

Todd

[kytim]

Looks like ya gotta pretty good handle on this project.

[ToddB 68]

Looks like ya gotta pretty good handle on this project.

Hi kytim

I really appreciate the complementary tone of your reply and the fact that someone finally replied ! I'm new here and after a week of waiting, 68 views, but 0 replies, I was about to have an anxiety attack ! Just kidding.....LOL

Anyway, I'm hoping for some critique, advice, opinions and suggestions. Can't believe there's no room for improvement on my ideas.

Thanks for lookin in though.

Todd

[DaveT]

One of the best investments you can make, as far as cases go, is to find the Al Stohlman books on case making. There are 3 and they cover pretty much all the bases. Yes, the patterns and items he makes cases for are horribly outdated, but the techniques work the same for other stuff. I've been doing this a long time and still refer to the books when I'm making a new case. Always something to learn. BTW, the hand sewing book is a great reference too. Just don't get dragged into the whole linen vs. polyester thread debate. It all works. The only advantage I've found to linen thread is in tapering the ends. You can do that with poly thread, but it's a lot more work.

Dave T.

[ToddB 68]

One of the best investments you can make, as far as cases go, is to find the Al Stohlman books on case making. There are 3 and they cover pretty much all the bases. Yes, the patterns and items he makes cases for are horribly outdated, but the techniques work the same for other stuff. I've been doing this a long time and still refer to the books when I'm making a new case. Always something to learn. BTW, the hand sewing book is a great reference too. Just don't get dragged into the whole linen vs. polyester thread debate. It all works. The only advantage I've found to linen thread is in tapering the ends. You can do that with poly thread, but it's a lot more work.

Dave T.

Hi Dave,

Thanks much for the above info..

I was looking at my 2010 Tandy catalog #184 this evening, at the different thread types shown on pages #22 and #23, and trying to decide on the right choice for my tool sheath, which will be hand sewn. I chose the following group of threads that are in the right price range for me, but could use a recommendation from someone with a lot of experience like yourself. I don't know what would be the right type of thread, i.e. what it is made of and it's working qualities, attributes, etc.. Regarding a thread color to compliment the finished sheath, I will either use a natural or neatsfoot (darkening) preservative on the leather, one or the other. But for me, the thread color is secondary to the right type of thread.

My chosen group of threads from the Tandy catalog :

#11207...Waxed Linen Thread, 25 yds., $6.95

#11210...Waxed Braided Cord, 25 yds., $5.99

#1220.....Tejas Waxed Thread, 4oz., $12.99

#3609.....Artificial Sinew, 20 yds., $3.99

#3613.....Braided Sinew, 20 yds., $7.99

If you think there is a better choice than what I have listed, I would appreciate your advice.

Thanks again Dave !

Todd

[MADMAX22]

Personally I like the waxed linen thread. The others I have tried and they dont feel or look as good IMHO. Well the sinew has some good uses but the tejas is overly waxed and the braided cord is the only one I havent used.

I really like linen. It looks great and is easy to use.

[ToddB 68]

Personally I like the waxed linen thread. The others I have tried and they dont feel or look as good IMHO. Well the sinew has some good uses but the tejas is overly waxed and the braided cord is the only one I havent used.

I really like linen. It looks great and is easy to use.

MADMAX22,

Thanks much for sharing your opinions on thread.

I was recently in contact with Jim Villwock, Customer Sales Manager at the Fort Worth, Texas Tandy Leather Factory to get advice on thread for my tool sheath project and although he made no negative remarks about several other polyester threads I had asked about, the Waxed Linen (Tandy #11207) is also his favorite. He had no particular reason and said that he just liked it.

I do have a question though, regarding something I just read tonight as I was studying my copy of Al Stohlman's book titled The Art of Hand Sewing Leather . This book is excellent, with good illustrations and instructions and I am very pleased with it, however, I wonder if some of the advice could be out-dated. For example, at the top-right of page #4 there is a sketch of a roll of unwaxed linen thread and the note underneath says that pre-waxed thread is not good, as proper ends cannot be made. So, in 1977, when the book was copyrighted, Al's opinion was that the unwaxed linen thread was preferable. Maybe the current day pre-waxed thread is improved. As a matter of fact, my copy of the current Tandy Buyers' Guide #184 doesn't even list unwaxed linen thread. That seems to indicate a modern day trend away from the unwaxed. Have you ever used the unwaxed and if so, what did you think of it ? Also, do you have any trouble making "proper ends" with the pre-waxed ?

I look forward to your reply.

Todd

[MADMAX22]

You can still get unwaxed linen thread from other places then tandy. The thing with the wax thread is that to get the ends nice and pointy to thread thru the needle you need to take a dull knife and scrape the wax off to thin out the thread. Other wise you end up having to use a larger needle then necessary.

I still use wax thread as I have a bunch left. I recently started playing with making my own wax/rosin mix and tried it out on some hemp thread and it is working very nicely. It allows better control over how much wax you end up putting on.

Waxed linen thread will work just fine, I have also used waxed nylon and it works pretty good as well I just prefer the linen better. Some people will swear by different threads and use different types depending on there projects.

If you look in the sewing subforum there is a thread on threads (lol) that has alot of good info on this subject.

[ToddB 68]

You can still get unwaxed linen thread from other places then tandy. The thing with the wax thread is that to get the ends nice and pointy to thread thru the needle you need to take a dull knife and scrape the wax off to thin out the thread. Other wise you end up having to use a larger needle then necessary.

I still use wax thread as I have a bunch left. I recently started playing with making my own wax/rosin mix and tried it out on some hemp thread and it is working very nicely. It allows better control over how much wax you end up putting on.

Waxed linen thread will work just fine, I have also used waxed nylon and it works pretty good as well I just prefer the linen better. Some people will swear by different threads and use different types depending on there projects.

If you look in the sewing subforum there is a thread on threads (lol) that has alot of good info on this subject.

Thanks MADMAX22 ! I appreciate the help. I'll check out that subforum.

Todd

[katsass]

I still use wax thread as I have a bunch left. I recently started playing with making my own wax/rosin mix and tried it out on some hemp thread and it is working very nicely. It allows better control over how much wax you end up putting on.

Waxed linen thread will work just fine, I have also used waxed nylon and it works pretty good as well I just prefer the linen better. Some people will swear by different threads and use different types depending on there projects.

Good morning.....Ditto on what MadMaxx says, right down the line. I prefer waxed linen. 98%+ of my work is saddle stitched, but every once a great while I'll lace something. Mike