Softening Veg Tan Leather ?

[sharpshooter81]

Although I am fairly new to leatherworking, I have completed alot of different projects from belts and wallets to custom rifle scabbards. All of my stuff to this point has turned out good with the exception of my leather being stiff and hard. I usually case my leather, do all my tooling, and dye it soon after tooling is completed. I usually apply my topcoat (fiebings acrylic resolene) within a few hours of dying with fiebings professional oil dye. The result is hard, stiff leather. What can I do or add to give me nice soft, supple leather projects?? I was thinking about adding a couple coats of Neatsfoot oil between the dyeing and topcoat stages. Would this work??? Also, how much will this increase the suppleness of my projects?? Thanks in advance for any input!!

[Rawhide]

Add a couple of LIGHT coats of neatsfoot oil between your dying, and finishing. Dying leeches out the natural fat oils and those infused during the tanning process. Take caution and apply this sparingly in increments. Neatsfoot is VERY easy to over apply and saturates the fibers. You can ruin a many of projects with oversaturating with oil.

[katsass]

Although I am fairly new to leatherworking, I have completed alot of different projects from belts and wallets to custom rifle scabbards. All of my stuff to this point has turned out good with the exception of my leather being stiff and hard. I usually case my leather, do all my tooling, and dye it soon after tooling is completed. I usually apply my topcoat (fiebings acrylic resolene) within a few hours of dying with fiebings professional oil dye. The result is hard, stiff leather. What can I do or add to give me nice soft, supple leather projects?? I was thinking about adding a couple coats of Neatsfoot oil between the dyeing and topcoat stages. Would this work??? Also, how much will this increase the suppleness of my projects?? Thanks in advance for any input!!

From the grump: It kind of depends on what you are making IMO. A supple wallet is nice, but a bit too much neatsfoot oil on a new wallet can burn your butt -- literally. For a rifle scabbard, I'd want it fairly rigid -- to absorb some of life's little 'hard knocks'. Holsters now, I make sure they are quite rigid. I make mine from two layers of light weight leather, 4/5oz, bonded together on the flesh side. When wet molded these become more rigid than does a single piece of leather of comparable weight, and I want them that way.. In the application of neatsfoot (or any 'conditioner'), moderation is the key. As Rawhide says. LIGHT coats. .All of my stuff gets a light coat of neatsfoot oil, prior to the application of a finish. I use an airbrush, however most any method works fine. A key to remember is that neatsfoot doesn't dry, it attempts to uniformly penetrate the fibers, and that takes a bit of time. I allow 24 hours after application before I start finishing. Remember that leather items become more supple with time and use. Just like a new pair of leather work gloves -- they don't feel right 'till you work in them a while. Mike

[DoubleC]

Sharp, Katass made a good point

Remember that leather items become more supple with time and use.

I use bag balm on all my things because I want them drapey and supple so apply it after everything else is done. But I think one thing that makes it work so well is I work it and work it with my hands.

I put a generous amount of bag balm (hey cows liked it when they were alive but you can use more expensive conditioners if you want) on the entire length of a guitar strap which would be like your belts or wallets. Then I use a hair dryer for a few seconds to liquefy it, then I rub that strap from end to end, back and forth pushing that balm into it. Then I let it dry until I need it, and then just take a soft cloth and wipe off any excess, and it's soft and good to go. Cheryl

[Sylvia]

Cheryl

What are the ingredients of the bag balm? Do you have any idea?

To the Original poster. I use PURE Neatsfoot oil before and after I dye. I've also used the compound but I found that the compound stuff can sometimes play havoc with the color of the dye. (orangy browns turning yellow-ish) I apply it by hand and work it in and flex the leather toward the flesh side if I want to keep the hair side smooth. Then allow it to "equalize/dry" for several hours before I dye. Patience is a virtue in leather working... many projects have been ruined by hurrying.... so don't.

[DoubleC]

It's basically just petroleum jelly and lanolin Sylvia. Softens your hands while you're at it, LOL. I used to use Vaseline until I got this. Makes the leather soft and so supple but doesn't hurt the finish at all.