New Guy Asking For Assist

[Pinoy Knife]

Greetings all i have been tooling/carving for about 5 years i'm kinda hoping someone here can help me find or make some light brown "Hi-lighter".

i have bought 4 small bottles and 2 large from 2 different suppliers both are "dark brown "/almost charcoal color.

looking for something like a lite tan high lighter to make things jump out a bit after all the extra work is done .

Anyone/anything helpfull is appreciated .

[TwinOaks]

You can thin it with tan-kote or bag-kote to get lighter shades. Figure the amount of x-kote you think you'll need to do the project, and add a little antique* to get the shade you need.

* This is presuming you're using paste antique, instead of the gel antique.

[Pinoy Knife]

You can thin it with tan-kote or bag-kote to get lighter shades. Figure the amount of x-kote you think you'll need to do the project, and add a little antique* to get the shade you need.

* This is presuming you're using paste antique, instead of the gel antique.

Twin Oak thank you for the assist but i'm stuck with Fiebings liquid "Hi-lighter" not a gel or paste. im wondering if i can dilute this stuff enough to add a lighter color . it dries about the same as "Dark Brown" oil dye from Fiebings . do you know what the thinner they use is ?? i might try it out a eye dropper full at a time until i get the right mix and then slowly increase it is a larger container. like start with a dixie cup and 10 droppers full of "High lighter" to whatever thinner works best kind of thing .

i'm honestly kind of surprised there is nothing commercially made for this ??

[Tina]

I'm stuck with Fiebings liquid "Hi-lighter" not a gel or paste. im wondering if i can dilute this stuff enough to add a lighter color . it dries about the same as "Dark Brown" oil dye from Fiebings .

Aha...Might I think that you are using the hi-liter directly on the untreaded leather without any resist inbetween (some sheene or similar)?

I use the Fiebings Hi-Liter liquid a lot and I don't get any color at all on the leather it self, just black in the cracks. I do use an acryllic resist in 2 layers before applying the Hi-liter (and I let the 2 layers dry at least 24 hours to prevent strickes and such). I hope this will help you some :-)

[Pinoy Knife]

Here is a example of what i'm making the lighter colored "window" is what i'm trying to do. i have never heard of or tried masking something that has been tooled before i tried to color it i guess it just seamed counterproductive . and advise ?? the darker ones were done with "Tan" Fiebings dye and came out too dark .after they completely dried .

[Tina]

Here is a example of what i'm making the lighter colored "window" is what i'm trying to do. i have never heard of or tried masking something that has been tooled before i tried to color it i guess it just seamed counterproductive . and advise ?? the darker ones were done with "Tan" Fiebings dye and came out too dark .after they completely dried .

You are talking about two different coloring mediums. Dye is dye and is used without resists. Antiquing is a finisher/fancy way of showing of the tooling and needs the resist.

The Hi-Liter is only ment to be in the cracks and not to put color on the rest of your work... Antique paste or Tandy antiquing and likes need the resist, it will put color (often black) in the tooled areas but also color the rest of your work brown/tan/mahogany etc. It also needs a couple of layers of the resist after the antiqing to secure it.

This link is just to show you different colors in one brand...Your picture with the light colored "windows" looks to me to be close to the British Tan paste.

http://sewwhatsupplies.com/cart/fiebings-antique-finish-p-83.html