How to get a stamp to show nicely

[VoxMagis]

I have ended up with a fair number of 3D stamps, and have really been struggling with getting them to imprint on leather.

I have tried several different things - dry leather, cased leather, wet leather. Hammering it to death, hand-pressure, different hammers and different surfaces. Nothing seems to do it. I know I'm missing something!

If anyone can point me to a decent 3D stamp instruction or help me along, I would REALLY appreciate it.

[iwannabeacowboy]

Same problem when I started out. I bought an Arbor Press http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...Itemnumber=3552 $50.00 then I took the ram to work and drilled a hole 7/16" by 2 1/2" deep. Then drilled a cross hole and tapped it for a lock screw. Now I get nice deep impressions. I can mount any stamps with different handle sizes, 4 hole punch, etc. Then if you get any larger stamps like

http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/bobpolgarsr3...QQ_fromZQQ_ipgZ I use a 1/4" thick pc of steel 4" X 3" on top to fully cover the emboss plate. I also replaced the bottom plate with a 4" x 4" plate. Dip to get wet start tooling when the color comes back, depending on thickness and wetness could be an hour up to 24 hours.

Charlie

[wildrose]

In the easy solution dept., you might try a "hefty handle". I use them with the more detailed 3D's and it works well.

[easy]

for my belts , i use a bench drill .

and before i get started , i putt the leather into water for at least 6 hours

grtz , ron - netherlands

[UKRay]

This may sound like I'm stating the obvious but Tandy sell a very good hand toggle press for those 3D stamps. I use mine for all kinds of jobs including key fobs, hair barrettes etc. They aren't cheap but they do take away a lot of the uncertainty associated with the things. They also drop the stamp square onto the leather, thereby avoiding the nasty unwanted corner impressions you get with a standard handle.

Ray

[Luke Hatley]

This may sound like I'm stating the obvious but Tandy sell a very good hand toggle press for those 3D stamps. I use mine for all kinds of jobs including key fobs, hair barrettes etc. They aren't cheap but they do take away a lot of the uncertainty associated with the things. They also drop the stamp square onto the leather, thereby avoiding the nasty unwanted corner impressions you get with a standard handle.

Ray

And to add to what Ray says with the embossing press there is no Bounce or double images as to pounding

the stamp with a Mallet or Maul.

[VoxMagis]

Yes, I'm horribly tempted to go the Tandy press route, but the cost is very high at this point in my poor poor life

I bought the 'cheap' version of the Tandy stamp tools, I'll order a Hefty Handle for now and give that a try.

Thank you all VERY much for your replies!

[kevinhopkins]

Yes, I'm horribly tempted to go the Tandy press route, but the cost is very high at this point in my poor poor life

I bought the 'cheap' version of the Tandy stamp tools, I'll order a Hefty Handle for now and give that a try.

Thank you all VERY much for your replies!

You'll probably do fine...just remember, the thicker and more solid your pounding surface is, the less grief you'll have!

Kevin

[resqman]

I have recently tried a woodworking bar clamp.

You can apply increasing force to the stamp by tightening the clamp. Definitely not the tool for production but a stamp here or there is seems to give a deep impression with no double stamp caused by bouncing. You can also leave the stamp and leather in the clamp for a minute or two or days if you wish.

I guess a regular C clamp could also be used. The abilty to tighten the clamp to the point the stamp could cut through the leather might have some advantage?

Edited August 5, 2009 by resqman

[Johanna]

I'm going to type this out because there are some people who just don't know...

When you set a 3D or alphabet stamp, put it where you want it on the cased leather and give it a little tap. Then make sure the stamp is seated in the impression. NOW you whack it, and do it hard. The first gentle tap helps to reduce the bounce, the second/third smacks make the impression.

Call me old fashioned, but that is still easier for me to do then set up the press.

Johanna

[CitizenKate]

I have a hefty handle, and it does help. I set mine down on the concrete floor in my shop, then pound the crap out of it with a 6lb maul. Perfect impressions every time!

Kate

[UKRay]

I have recently modified an old foot press to fit 3D stamps and I have to say this is the best solution I've found to date. It allows me to use both hands to put the work in the perfect position under the stamp and use exactly the right amount of pressure on the stamp.

Ray

[carr52]

I found that a dead blow hammer works great. The lead shot inside the head helps prevent the ounce.

Tom

[Jordan]

While I have not looked closely at the tandy press due to ridiculously high price, I believe it is simply an arbor press that has been modified for leather stamping. I think a press is the best way to get good impressions every time and a generic press mostly used in the automotive trades could be reworked for leather stamping. I think the only area to be modified would be how the stamps are attached to the press. Until I get one, I have found that using a heavy handle and heavy mallet works ok but double bounce and unwanted corners are still a problem if the leather is to dry, to wet, angle of attack is off or your bench is not real solid. But by far a pressed stamping looks better and is a lot easier to do as smooth, even leverage pressure allows for consistent results.

[DaveT]

The TLF press isn't an arbor press. It uses a camming action to "break over" and provide a LOT of force to the stamp. I have one and love it, but yes, they are expensive. Fortunately I bought mine at a garage sale for $50.

As to hand stamping, use a hefty handle! As was stated earlier, a good heavy stamping bench/block is necessary. Best I ever used as a bench was at a school demo. We had a half wall made of brick and concrete. That was a SOLID stamping surface and worked great. If you use a table, make sure you are stamping directly over a table leg. Then tap one time to "set" the stamp. Now rock it up onto each corner as you beat on it with a large hammer. A 3lb maul or dead blow hammer works well. Some stamps also have more depth than can be stamped into thin leather. Try it on thicker leather and you may get a better impression.

Dave T.

[yankeefan]

I have ended up with a fair number of 3D stamps, and have really been struggling with getting them to imprint on leather.

I have tried several different things - dry leather, cased leather, wet leather. Hammering it to death, hand-pressure, different hammers and different surfaces. Nothing seems to do it. I know I'm missing something!

If anyone can point me to a decent 3D stamp instruction or help me along, I would REALLY appreciate it.

This guy on eBay sells a homemade machine. I bought one 2-3 years ago,and it works great. http://cgi.ebay.com/Leather-Imprinting-setting-punching-Machine_W0QQitemZ320424514894QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4a9aca154e&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

This one just sold, but I bet he'll have another soon. His eBay name is br54922

I don't know him. Not advertising for him. Just a cheaper solution to the tandy imprinting machine.

[Patrice]

I've just bought a set of zodiac leather stamps by Baron and they are very difficult to stamp well in the leather. For your information, all 12 stamps are held just like any craftool. They are 3D, but not like the one sold by Tandy.

I'm using a yellow head small mallet, but i think i should use a maul. Also, is the Tandy Impriting Machin as an hollow tube that can accomodate craftool?

[CADBURYS]

sent for the Tandy press this morning so i suppose i will be waiting in anticipation like a kid waits for Christmas

[Luke Hatley]

I've just bought a set of zodiac leather stamps by Baron and they are very difficult to stamp well in the leather. For your information, all 12 stamps are held just like any craftool. They are 3D, but not like the one sold by Tandy.

I'm using a yellow head small mallet, but i think i should use a maul. Also, is the Tandy Impriting Machin as an hollow tube that can accomodate craftool?

THE YELLOW HEAD MALLET IS NOT HEAVY ENOUGH, IS THE LEATHER CASED JUST RIGHT?,

HAVE A FIRM GRIP ON THE HANDLE AND THEN GIVE IT A WHACK...........

[Penden]

I use the hefty handle and a rubber mallet! Haha

[EricDobson]

I realize I'm resurrecting a dead thread here, but...

Is this the Tandy Imprinting Machine that was referred to above, and if so, wouldn't this Infinity Stamps Arbor Press be a much better deal? The 2-ton press weighs 100 pounds, it's cast iron, and it's cheaper.

Am I missing something? I don't know the history here... perhaps the Infinity wasn't available six months ago...

[TroyS]

I use the hefty handle and a rubber mallet! Haha

The Rubber mallet is your biggest problem. Every time you strike the hefty handle, the mallet absorbs a portion of your energy or force from the swing. Not to mention the bounce of your tool from the impact. With nothing solid to keep it from moving, both tools move. Hitting the hefty handle with a steel headed mallet will cause the Hefty Handle to fail. Tandy is know for NOT putting much quality in their tools. A few strikes will cause your hefty handle to mushroom out. You can try a "DEAD-BLOW" mallet. They are filled with beads of lead to give you the weight for a good striking force, but they don't bounce on impact.

The real secret is a firm grip on your stamp. You can hit your Hefty Handle several times for a better impression AS LONG AS your stamp doesn't move between strikes. Try striking the tool, make sure tool is seated in original impression, then strike again. Repeat as necessary....

[CitizenKate]

Is this the Tandy Imprinting Machine that was referred to above, and if so, wouldn't this Infinity Stamps Arbor Press be a much better deal? The 2-ton press weighs 100 pounds, it's cast iron, and it's cheaper.

Am I missing something? I don't know the history here... perhaps the Infinity wasn't available six months ago...

Eric,

I don't think you're "missing" anything. The arbor press does exactly the same thing as the imprinting machine, and with the addition of some custom attachments, you can make them do a lot more. Also, if you're considering getting an arbor press, don't forget to check at places like Harbor Freight or Ebay, where they often have really great deals on these machines.

Kate

[azrider]

A really big one for getting these stamps not to bounce is the stamping surface. I just rebuilt my tooling desk, and have been amazed at how much bounce there was in the surface of my table. Now that there isn't flex there, the 3D stamps seem to go better. I have a 20 oz maul, hefty handle, and 1 inch thick stone. Tap to set, check that it's still straight, hit it hard.

[Gawdzilla]

I have recently tried a woodworking bar clamp.

You can apply increasing force to the stamp by tightening the clamp. Definitely not the tool for production but a stamp here or there is seems to give a deep impression with no double stamp caused by bouncing. You can also leave the stamp and leather in the clamp for a minute or two or days if you wish.

I guess a regular C clamp could also be used. The abilty to tighten the clamp to the point the stamp could cut through the leather might have some advantage?

I use a C-clamp all the time. I have yet to penetrate all the way through leather. The raised part of the stamp isn't as thick as the leather unless its really thin, so the base of the stamp hits the leather and stops it. I put a bit of paper under the leather before I clamp it so it doesn't stick to the table. That's usually not an issue if I wet the leather just before I clamp.

If you get "chatter" when you stamp a C-clamp is a sure cure for that. And it's quiet, no hammering to be done.