Harry Marinakis

I used the plan by Randy Steffan, found here: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/20586-stitching-horse-plans/ I modified the plan, and made the jaw vertical instead of angled. I really don't do a lot of punching holes by hand in heavy leather, so the ergonomics of angled jaws was unnecessary. Otherwise, the dimensions are the same as in Steffan's plan. Oh, I forgot, I made the jaws 2 inches taller than what's specified in the plan. I made the jaws by laminating strips, since I don't have a bandsaw large enough for this job. First I cut the Maple into four strips, each 21 inches long and 1-1/2 inches square. For each strip, I cut out of the shape of the jaws using a jigsaw. Then when I glued all the strips together I had the basic shape of the jaws. It took only a bit of work on the 4x36 belt sander for smooth out the final shape. I repeated the process for the shorter jaw. If I had to do it over again, I would make a few changes: 1. The plan assumes that jaws are angled left, so the mortise in the seat is shifted right. Since I made the jaws vertical, I should have centered the mortise in the seat. 2. There is a slot in the seat through which the leather strap passes. That slot is so close to the mortise for the jaws that the wedge has to be very short. I should have moved that slot in the seat for the leather strap further away from the mortise for the jaws. Then I could have made a longer wedge, and the jaws would be more stable. All the wood was cut from rough-cut slabs. The Cherry slab was 10 feet long. The Maple slabs were 6 feet long. Cherry seat with Maple trim on the legs. Maple jaws Maple lever bars 3/16" plate steel 1/8" plate steel Chair spring to pop the jaws open Leather strap Wood screws Tried & True wood finish

Period correct AND gorgeous

I made another tooling maul with parquetry. This time I recessed the bolts. The pommel swell is essential for a good, loose grip. I wanted this one to be smaller and lighter for more precision work, so I used lighter woods. Pine Giant Sequoia Madrone Camphor Plum 10 oz. UHMW head (2.5" tall x 3" diameter) 14.5 oz. overall weight. The larger maul has a 16 oz. UHMW head (3.5" tall x 3" diameter) and weighs 23 oz. overall. If you could have only one maul, then I think a perfect one-maul-does-it-all would have a 12 oz. UHMW head (3" in diameter).

GOOD IDEA!

I turned my wood mauls with a flat top. But I just knock them over all the time, so I don't stand them up.

There's a story behind the reason that an acorn nut is not there. I'd tell you, but I don't want to embarrass myself.

My new DIY tooling maul 1 lb. head of UHMW poly 23 oz. total weight Maple, Manzanita, Walnut, Ash

Cheap 4x36 belt sander. They don't last long, plan on replacing it every 5 years.

THANK YOU

I am looking for a leather with very special characteristics. - Soft as chamois -Anywhere from 5 to 9 oz. thickness -Doesn't stretch -Light cream or natural light color I was able to obtain this leather from Promise Land Tannery, but it's not available anymore. They advertised it as Latigo. Does anyone know where I can get such a leather? Many of us are looking for it, but we can't find it.

Not wash-fast means the dye is water-soluble and will wash out if the leather is wetted. Not sun-fast means that the dye will fade rapidly in left in direct sunlight.

Belt sander

Thank you Hilldale I searched on bezel but found only blanks, earrings, or pendants. Nothing that would even remotely suitable for leather. I guess I'll have to solder my own settings.

Thanks but that suggestion was not useful. Anyone else have any ideas?

I want to set half pearls and other costume jewelry into leather. I assume that there is a setting for half pearls and other similar jewels that have a rivet stud. But I don't even know what they're called. I've tried searching on Google, but can't find the correct search term. Can someone help? Thanks.