specialcases

SORRY IT IS OFF THE MARKET FOR NOW. Thanks for looking so far.

For Sale from Toronto Canada 2 years old, very lightly used but well maintained. Aluminum frame model. Has some markings from original shipping and from clamping to work surface. Complete with - Master Crafter Accessory pack including: Centre foot Fleece foot Right foot Left foot Stirrup attachment Material guide attachment 8 bobbins and drill adaptor, 20 assorted leather chisel and round tip needles for 207 and 277 and original maintenance tools (Allen wrenches) and LED work light. 6 full spools of thread as sold by Tippmann: black, white, and brown, in 207 and 277 each. I love it but hardly ever use it based on the projects I seem to be doing. It needs a loving home that will use it to its full potential. Asking $1100 CAD (plus shipping at est 25 pounds in original box plus box for thread) for a 1700 USD value (plus, shipping, duty tax etc.). Or pick up in Toronto Ontario Canada. Sad to see it go but it just isn’t getting used.

I had Tandy's 2 version first then quickly found the need for something more stable so I made my own Pony - Tandy units were challenge to me on the hardware side even when I upgrade/replaced some - just my experience an based on the work I and way I need to position it, Mine has a little deeper/wider throat, wider jaws, wide base and uses a ratchet strap fro tension (one hand operation while he other positions the work), and rotates for various work positions. I used old hardwood floor boards I laminated. It also slots into an old chair to make a semi horse (donkeee?) when needed. Also for fun I researched the traditional bench style clamps from photos, historic plans and Al Stohlman's book and had one made by my brother in law as a gift - I was going to but he wanted to so who am I to say no..... I added padding for my bones.

Thanks all. Once I let go of feeling sorry for myself... the solution was quite simple... and thus not from my own head...Einstein once said if the solution is simple it is God's.

Last week I was told by my doctor I had begun to develop a cist on my right wrist on the thumb tendons ...key part of my anatomy fro hand stitching,,, and I should get a new hobby AND were a brace when using my hand AND/OR modify how I work.....bad news.... Then while sitting at my bench, brace on and awl awkwardly in hand and un-usable....feeling very deflated it struck me .... so I modified my awl and slipped it under the brace and voila!!!.....it is fact even easier not work as the brace supports my wrist, holds the awl better than I used to and it is now good news!!! So I was again shown that what I think is bad or wrong may not be.

Boriqua, yours project both turned out amazing and yes it would be a heavy unit with all that tactical on it! figure look amazing as does the finish. What was your finish process, products? my skull actaully turned out like that by accident as I was rushing to get it out and skimped on the blocker layers and dry time..black bled into white and then I used my wheel buffer too hard and ended up with three layers, grain, white and black and soem shade sin betwen...liked it and kept it..A happy accidident. That is why i never loose heart along the way through as project when things seem to be going "wrong". Mine is only 8 oz singel layer as it is an airgun for recreational occassional use. No need to beef it up anymore like you had to.

I was waiting to see the results and at the risk of a hijack here is one I just finished for a pal on the Canadain Airgun Forum. Is your done?

heh Jess thanks for the encouragement. I havent gotten to the bible cover yet.....had some paying customers to do first..so I may see yorus before you see mine! Look froward to it.

Thanks Cyber. I checked and tandy doesnt seem to carry anything like it. I may order from springfield. they seem to be the only source. Thanks for the tip (no pun intended).

Great tip to go over it again with a light touch of the swivel knife or swivel beveler. I think I will look into a swivel beveler blade and give that a run too. I just did some loop last night with the adjustable creaser and was pleased with the "countour" even more so than the wing divider. More will be revealed but this has all been very helpful..obviously no set answer and many approaches...should fall down to my own preference in result and patience/practice in process. I look forward to more feedback.

I have a friend who say he has OCd adn ADD..so everything has to perfect - but just for a little while! Thansk for the tips. Another question then: what is you go to creaser: wing divider, adjustable creaser (like tandy sells) purpose made/sized push creaser (like osborne's)? Others? Home made? Or do you different tools for different conditions?

Thank you all. I think I am better armed now to let patience and practice do its work. Still open to any more help of course. And jsut a more specific question...do you all crease around the ends of straps or do anuy of you run the side creases straight out and have that look? This would help where you needed to make loats fo shorted straps as you could crease and finish a longer legth, cut the shorted pieces then just touch up the tip edges.....production versus detail perhaps?

Thanks guys. I have stumbled on the moving the work and trying to keep the angle the same. As for edges do you guys crease before rounding or other way round? I think I usual round first (but not burnish yet) but operhaps that decreases the support at the edge for the creasing tool....well yes it would wouldnt iit! What order do you follow. crease- round, or round- crease. if using wing dividers do you work on the stampign stone surface or your cuttign surface. It mioght be wrogn fro soem reason but I recall more success on the stone. Finally when working with harness leather or latigo strap work (any of the oilier non carving leathers) would you still "case"? if yes how? same as usual? And do any of you crease with hot tools as I have seen? hows that work?

Hi gang. I do a bit of strap work for various projects and am consistantly frustrated when it comes to running the crease around the round or english point end of the strap or belt. Same issue on tight curves and recurves on other pieces This is whether I use a purpose made creaser or the wing dividers. the dividers actaully work a little better. I am a slow and patient worker but the crease often ends up looking "jumpy" and/or unequal distance from the edge. I have resorted on occassion to just running the crease straight out the end and not coming around the tip in narrower straps but......not thrilled with that as a detail either. So any tips other than just keep practicign since that one I am alerady onto. Thansk in advance.

Thanks for the post. Can you post any pictures or a sketch so I am sure I am visualising this acurately?