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Julesinnola

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About Julesinnola

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  1. While my budget isn't infinite, I would certainly consider spending a bit on this ($500-1000+) for the right solution. It would certainly be a scrape for me, but worthwhile if the alternative is closing my business to save my joints. I consider getting up out of my chair frequently a plus during work. I think sitting in one spot is the worst and have to remind myself to get up and move. My workshop has the space for pretty much any of the foot presses that I've seen. I'm most concerned about repetitive motion/overuse of elbows, wrists, and knees. Right now, pulling the arm on my 1/2 ton arbor press (which has an oblong punch welded to it) aggravates my better elbow, so I am cautious about investing in a hand-operated punch if it takes pressure from the user to operate. Does anyone know how much force the Heritage Foot Press takes to set a rivet? Is it easy, or are you stomping on it? Does anyone own the Gold Star hand press? How much elbow grease does it take to set a rivet? (in comparison to perhaps opening a jar, which has recently become difficult if not impossible for me) Also, good point about the time of swapping dies- I would say that 99% of what I would use it for is punching holes and setting rivets.
  2. I've been working on leather for about 20-30 hours a week (I do pretty much everything the 100% manual way), and I'm beginning to have enough problems with my wrists and elbows that I either need to automate some things or quit. I've thought about getting a Tandy Craftool hand press, mostly for punching holes and setting small and medium double cap rivets. But I also saw in another thread here that there are foot presses to be had (goldstartool.com is the only source I've found for these so far, but my research has been limited to reading all of the threads here and a few google searches). My questions are: 1) For those of you with hand presses, do you think they are more or less "elbow grease" intensive than using a hand rivet setter and mallet? (Is pressing that arm still going to aggravate my ancient 34 year old elbows?) Are any particularly better than others? I watched a video at 2) Am I going to lose a finger using a foot operated one? Are the non-electric foot pedal machines difficult enough to operate that I'm going to develop a knee overuse problem, too? When I watched the video for the Heritage Foot Press, it looked like the operator had to really stomp (his whole body came forward when he pressed). 3) What about electric ones? (That really seems like a way to lose a finger, and I'm super lost when y'all talk about modifying motors. I'm afraid of ending up with a very expensive paperweight.) Any input y'all have regarding choosing a press (or something else) to help save my body is appreciated, including specific brand recommendations that may be easier to operate (or that I should avoid). Thanks, Jules
  3. I'm on the hunt- I need a light pink, light blue, and possible a light purple latigo leather. It doesn't specifically need to be latigo, a 5-8 oz weight of something predyed and suitable as a belting/strap/harness leather is ideal. Color is actually the most important. I've been ordering the white and hot pink latigo from hide house, but my customers are asking for pastels and I'm at a loss. Used up the odd lot pastel pink I've had for years. Does anyone have a suggestion on where to look? I'm not doing any stamping or carving, so I'm really quite flexible on the type of leather. Even a firm, thick upholstery leather could do. Thanks! Jules
  4. You've got great advice. It's easy for me to get focused on providing "good customer service" and not realize that I'm screwing myself. My bottom line is a lot clearer for the types of orders I do frequently, it's harder for me to estimate when the job itself has unknown elements. But you're right- I'm busy enough with other orders, so I'm shouldn't deal with someone who can't do things like give me pictures when I ask for them!
  5. That wise old saddle maker is right! It took me until last year to really stop accepting jobs that aren't worth my while or drive me nuts. When she first contacted me, I told her that dyeing a pair of boots from brown to black starts at $50, that I'd need to disassemble parts of the saddle, and that she'd be looking at $50 in materials and an hourly rate based on how long it actually took. I really didn't expect her to continue pursuing this once I told her that boots were $50 lol, but she did, so here I am. She also wanted me to do this in two nights, and I told her that two weeks was possible as a rush job if the saddle cooperated. She's continued to ask for a firm quote, and I've told her twice now that I can't tell her anything more price-wise until I see the saddle or some damn good pics. I figure if my hourly rate is worse than the saddler, she'll just go elsewhere. I wouldn't be heartbroken if she did. I was hoping there was some standard going rate for this kind of dye job. I often get people asking me for cheap, and I answer them that I can give them good, but cheap isn't worth my time or their money. What bothers me is when people don't listen to what I'm saying and keep asking for a miracle when I've given them a set of options.
  6. Thanks for the replies! I still don't know what type of leather this is. I'm pretty sure this person believes I can just wave a magic wand. She wants a price quote, and I want pictures of the saddle before I will give her a quote. We're at a stalemate, and I'm OK with that I'll link to the picture here if/when I get one. I've thought of vinagaroon- it doesn't have an issue combining with the old dye? I can also get my hands on Meltonian spray, I'll have to try playing with that.
  7. I'm a somewhat experienced leatherworker (I've been doing this for about 4-5 years, 30 or so hours a week, although I tend to make *cough* specialty items for adults. I've of course made my share of dog collars and belts as well Tack and saddle is something I don't usually work on, and particularly not working items (I've done some cleaning and conditioning on antiques/items that are out of use). Someone local to me has asked me to re-dye a black Western saddle that is losing its color. I haven't seen the saddle or pictures of the saddle yet, so I'm not sure what leather we're talking about (veg-tan etc). I've re-dyed tons of boots with great success, including some color changes, but my concern would be color transfer from the saddle onto her riding pants. My thoughts were: saddle soap -> strip/deglaze -> pro oil dye -> mink oil or aussie -> acrylic resolene. Any input would be greatly appreciated. My google-fu has so far told me that many folks experience dye transfer after attempting DIY re-dyes, however, I'd imagine these are mostly folks taking on their first dye project.
  8. I'd love to have access to the hidden adult forum, please! Thanks, Jules G Name: Jules G UserName: Julesinnola IP Address: 38.115.20.76 Email Address: onapachesa@gmail.com
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