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rugershooter

Thread-Needle-Stiching Chisel-Leather Thickness

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Hello,

I am hand crafting holsters, mobile phone cases, key chains, etc.

I have been able to get hold of what appears to be a rare size 1mm (..1 cm) "Diamond Stitching Chisel," The first time I stitched using 220D and 250D nylon thread, but found this thread to be too small in diameter to "drop and lie" neatly

and uniformly in the stitching groove I had made on two 4oz. pieces of leather. I have been testing other threads, but I do not see the nice rounded stitches on professionally hand crafted holster.

Is there a rule of thumb that one should use when using chisels, thread and needles?

Lastly, I am typically sewing 2 x 4oz. leather cowhide, however, at the fold of the holster, I will be stitching through 4 X 4oz. pieces of leather, would this require cord or is a solid A&E Bonded Nylon "ex 270", or "Tex 350?"

I greatly appreciate the feedback.

Regards,

Andrew Peter.............

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Hello,

I am hand crafting holsters, mobile phone cases, key chains, etc.

I have been able to get hold of what appears to be a rare size 1mm (..1 cm) "Diamond Stitching Chisel," The first time I stitched using 220D and 250D nylon thread, but found this thread to be too small in diameter to "drop and lie" neatly

and uniformly in the stitching groove I had made on two 4oz. pieces of leather. I have been testing other threads, but I do not see the nice rounded stitches on professionally hand crafted holster.

Is there a rule of thumb that one should use when using chisels, thread and needles?

Lastly, I am typically sewing 2 x 4oz. leather cowhide, however, at the fold of the holster, I will be stitching through 4 X 4oz. pieces of leather, would this require cord or is a solid A&E Bonded Nylon "ex 270", or "Tex 350?"

I greatly appreciate the feedback.

Regards,

Andrew Peter.............

FWIW from the old grump: I've been making a holsters now and then for the past 50 years or so. I do make most of mine from a double layer of 4/5oz veg-tanned cowhide shoulder leather. For stitching I use either 5 or 7 cord waxed linen threads almost exclusively. It's available from most suppliers, but I get mine from Springfield Leather. I have used Nyltex, also available from most suppliers, if you care to use a synthetic thread, I don't. I have absolutely no idea what the hell you are talking about in your description of threads you have used, or are thinking about using. I expect that you mean that you stitch through 4 layers of 4/5oz leather at the welt -- I don't see any reason to stitch at the fold. I use an old Osborn stitching awl (chisel?), sharpened for about 1/4" or so and stropped often. It's about 1/8" wide -- I don't do metric dimension. It eases through four layers of leather easily. For anyone starting out making holsters, I strongly suggest that one obtains the book "How To Make Holsters" by Al Stohlman. At around $12 or so, it covers about everything needed for basic holster making, from pattern drawing to stitching and finishing. It looks a bit dated, but the information is still relevant today, and most holster makers I know have their own, well used copy, I bought mine in about 1960. I hand stitch everything I do. I use a #6 overstitch to mark stitch spacing, and to finish my stitching; a good stitching awl; #1 harness needles; and waxed linen thread. A pic of one of my holsters, showing a bit of stitching. Mike

001-3-1.jpg

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Dear Mike,

1. Awl, Cord, spacing, book and technique noted with much appreciation and I will follow up and post to the forum, when complete.

2. The "diamond stitching chisel" I am using is a slightly greater than 1/32" of an inch blade width and spacing between blades is about 1/16th."

3. That is not a picture of a holster you sent me, but "A Work of Art."

Thanks for knocking off many years of frustration!

Regards,

Andrew Peter...................:rolleyes:

FWIW from the old grump: I've been making a holsters now and then for the past 50 years or so. I do make most of mine from a double layer of 4/5oz veg-tanned cowhide shoulder leather. For stitching I use either 5 or 7 cord waxed linen threads almost exclusively. It's available from most suppliers, but I get mine from Springfield Leather. I have used Nyltex, also available from most suppliers, if you care to use a synthetic thread, I don't. I have absolutely no idea what the hell you are talking about in your description of threads you have used, or are thinking about using. I expect that you mean that you stitch through 4 layers of 4/5oz leather at the welt -- I don't see any reason to stitch at the fold. I use an old Osborn stitching awl (chisel?), sharpened for about 1/4" or so and stropped often. It's about 1/8" wide -- I don't do metric dimension. It eases through four layers of leather easily. For anyone starting out making holsters, I strongly suggest that one obtains the book "How To Make Holsters" by Al Stohlman. At around $12 or so, it covers about everything needed for basic holster making, from pattern drawing to stitching and finishing. It looks a bit dated, but the information is still relevant today, and most holster makers I know have their own, well used copy, I bought mine in about 1960. I hand stitch everything I do. I use a #6 overstitch to mark stitch spacing, and to finish my stitching; a good stitching awl; #1 harness needles; and waxed linen thread. A pic of one of my holsters, showing a bit of stitching. Mike

001-3-1.jpg

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Well Andrew Peter, First off I'd personally get rid of that nasty four pronged stitching chisel -- they be nasty things in my opinion. A true stitching awl can be tricky to work with initially, however practice , practice and more practice works out in the end. There are many that use a drill press (NOT turned on) with an awl blade in it to punch their holes in a perfectly straight, and vertical line. There others that use a Dremel (small rotary) type tool to drill little bitty (3/64") holes for stitching. NOTE: do not try to use a 3/64" drill bit in a drill press -- the bit will walk all over hell because the press does not spin at high enough speed to stabilize it. I have used the following method to teach the use of the awl: Punch a row of holes, say 10 or 12 holes, then use the awl to open each hole slightly, in line and level --- as you progress, you will soon slip and stick the awl into a dimple made by the overstitch (when initially marking stitch length) that has not been drilled. Fairly soon, drilling will become unnecessary, you'll be able to punnch the awl right on through without having a pre-drilled hole as a guide. Use of a stitching pony helps along these lines also. I don't use one, just punch my holes and wait 'till the evening a stitch while watching the tube. Remember, stitching takes time. It isn't as fast as granny sewing up a seam in a pair of pants. Each stitch must be done in EXACTLY the same way. ie: All stitches start on the same side of the piece. The second needle must remain either on top of or below the first thread. An easy way to accomplish this is to; stuff the first needle through, pull the thread snug and back towards yourself. Insert the second needle and pull the thread up until there is a small loop remaining in it. At this time notice where the first thread is --- either inside that loop ... or outside of the loop. If inside, the second thread will lay on top of the first -- and vicy-vercy. I personally keep it outside of the loop, but for smooth and even stitches, each and every stitch must be done the same way or you will find the stitches 'wobbling' friom side to side. OK enough of playing the grumpy teacher. Get the book, work with it and enjoy yourself and thanks for the compliment. Mike

Edited by katsass

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;

stuff the first needle through, pull the thread snug and back towards yourself. Insert the second needle and pull the thread up

<snip>

each and every stitch must be done the same way or you will find the stitches 'wobbling' friom side to side.

That's exactly how my mentor taught me to do it...

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