alexitbe Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Which do you use? I am new to hand sewing ( Infact sewing in general) and have managed to bend 2 diamond awls already... Replacements are being shipped as we speak.... I ignored Stohlman and bought waxed linen thread...an he was right... Its not possible to taper properly. However, I see you can buy pre-tapered polyester thread. I guess Stohlman did not have this as an option in his time. Are these any good? If so which supplier do you use? I would prefer to get unwaxed linen thread, but cannot find a source in Germany... So buying pre tapered nylon thread might be the best solution. Cheers Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted February 14, 2015 Buy the linen and just taper it with your knife. Incidentally, you might have better luck with the chisels if you only use them to mark the stitch spacing on thicker leathers instead of trying to punch the holes with them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alexitbe Report post Posted February 15, 2015 Thanks for the response... I am having trouble getting black unwaxed linen thread in 5 cord thickness, over here in Europe... I broke, or bent my awls, not the pricking irons.... Thank God, since they are cheaper than pricking irons... I was using 4mm thick leather I bought from an old shoemaker. Maybe it was sole leather? Who knows, but its bloody hard.... I had to drill it with 1mm bit. Cheers Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted February 15, 2015 That sounds like the leather still had a rawhide core....it happens sometimes. Then next time you encounter really hard leather like that, try dampening the leather (after marking the stitches) to soften it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasJack Report post Posted February 16, 2015 When thread is pre-waxed, it's hard to predict how much wax will be on it. If you wax it yourself, you'll know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted February 16, 2015 Also, if you buy unwaxed linen thread, you can dye it yourself so that it matches your work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt T Report post Posted February 16, 2015 TwinOaks, do you unwind your thread before dying? Or can you dye the whole spool at once? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simontuntelder Report post Posted February 16, 2015 There are at least two sources for unwaxed linen thread in your neighboring country, Denmark. Skindhuset and Laederiet. It is possible to find in Germany with thread manufacturers like Hoogen and Gruschwitz - although both might have gone out of business. Or try googling leinenzwirn 18 (typical handsewing weight) and then 3,4 or 5 or how many plys you're after. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted February 17, 2015 When hand sewing, I typically use pieces of thread no more than 3 feet /1 meter long. If the piece requires more, splice in more thread and keep sewing. This is done because if you have to sew 150 stitches, the thread nearest the needle will have gone through the leather that many times. At that point, it's picked up a little bit of a dirty look, which I suspect is from tannins in the leather, oil from hands, some dust in the room....anything. But the point is that the thread starts looking worse after a certain amount of stitching. Combine that with how easy it is to splice in a new piece and there's no reason to keep sewing with ratty thread. I mention the 3' as a maximum length - it the thread looks bad/ratty/worn after only 30 stitches, it's time to splice in a new piece. The same applies to lacing. So to answer the specific question, only dye what's needed at the time. Put a little dye in a small container, pull the thread through it, or just submerge it, then pull the thread through a sponge or paper towels. Let it dry, wipe off any dry particles (just like buffing) and wax it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alexitbe Report post Posted February 25, 2015 Sorry to have gone silent... I seem to have forgotten to subscribe. Simon, thank you for the information on where to purchase what I am looking for. I will go and have a look. I have already bought some braided polyester thread for my sewing machine, but I now need something for hand sewing. Twinoaks: I appreciate your advice. I will give it a go with linen thread. Is it possible to handsew with manmade thread and still be able to taper the ends? Stohlman is very particular about tapering the ends and even specifies uwaxed linen thread Cheers ALex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Black Dogg Report post Posted February 25, 2015 Alex, I started out doing it exactly as Stohlman says (tapering and all) but over time found out it is easier to just pull the end of the thread through like you would for regular sewing. I think the tapering is only an advantage if you are using hog's bristles since they don't have an eye. Historically, "tapered ends" or "waxed ends" (as they are called over here) are the way to go. Have you tried the Bear Gallery in Munich for your thread; when I was still over there Mr. Berends used to carry unwaxed linen. If not, give Campbell-Randall a try; they are over here but I believe they ship internationally. Their linen thread is the best I have used so far and pretty reasonably priced. Here's where you can have a look: http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=43_60_62 Good Luck!! Black Dogg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alexitbe Report post Posted February 26, 2015 Thanks Black Dogg, I have not tried the Bear Gallery, but will have a look now. So you think I can try the braided polyester(Annam thread for shoes) that I have bought for my sewing machine and not worry about tapering? That would be very convenient. Then I can spend time looking for the right linen thread, but start with making leather right now. Cheers Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Black Dogg Report post Posted February 26, 2015 I never used poly thread for handsewing yet, but I can't see why not. I'm not familiar with your particular thread, but if it's made for shoes it should be stout enough for other leatherwork, too, unless you're doing really heavy (saddle type) work. Like I said above, I can't see any advantage to tapering when I'm using needles, but, like everything else, everyone has their own preferences. Just try it on some scrap leather and see which you like better. It does save a lot of time if you don't taper. Have fun!! Black Dogg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverwingit Report post Posted March 22, 2015 Alex, I have to chuckle... Over here in the US, Tiger thread, which is only available in Europe, is ~highly~ coveted for hand stitching yet there are many sources for linen thread. I you aren't married to the idea of linen, you might consider Tiger or Ritza 25 thread (same thing). All the pros swear by it. Michelle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
