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jk215

Using A Diamond Awl On Thick Leather..

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Recently just started leatherworking and had a question regarding using a diamond awl on thick leather. For my first venture into leather I purchased some 3-4 oz. veg tanned and have been saddle stitching up a storm. For my next batch I want to buy 8-9 oz and start a real project. While Im not having too much trouble poking my holes on the 3-4 oz leather I cant help but imagine its going to be much tougher on 8-9 oz. Other than keeping the awl very sharp and using some beeswax to aid in the stabbing, does anyone have any tips on working with the thicker leather? I noticed in my guide to hand sewing book it says not to wiggle your hand because it creates a larger hole. Is it alright to keep the awl straight and twist to work into the hole? Or am I supposed to keep it directly straight and push right through?

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Keep it straight.

You can stab it while it's damp.

Edited by Tree Reaper

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If your awl is very sharp you will be surprised how easy it to push through thicker leather and into your own hand. I have done this many times. just remember strop the blade after sharpening and keep a box of band aids near by. LOL

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Recently just started leatherworking and had a question regarding using a diamond awl on thick leather. For my first venture into leather I purchased some 3-4 oz. veg tanned and have been saddle stitching up a storm. For my next batch I want to buy 8-9 oz and start a real project. While Im not having too much trouble poking my holes on the 3-4 oz leather I cant help but imagine its going to be much tougher on 8-9 oz. Other than keeping the awl very sharp and using some beeswax to aid in the stabbing, does anyone have any tips on working with the thicker leather? I noticed in my guide to hand sewing book it says not to wiggle your hand because it creates a larger hole. Is it alright to keep the awl straight and twist to work into the hole? Or am I supposed to keep it directly straight and push right through?

Keep it straight. If it is sharp and polished you can determine where you want it to come out on the other side. When removing if you need to wiggle a little it should not make much difference in your stitch holes.

If your awl is very sharp you will be surprised how easy it to push through thicker leather and into your own hand. I have done this many times. just remember strop the blade after sharpening and keep a box of band aids near by. LOL

I use a black board eraser or a stiff sponge to "back up" the awl hole. Sometimes just having it near the exit is enough so you can keep good control.

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An old timer's trick is to keep a chunk of beeswax nearby and if need be stab the awl in it every 3-4 stitches. A lot of good stitching horses include a hole in one leg for beeswax. Wax along with a well polished balde works wonders...

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I use a black board eraser or a stiff sponge to "back up" the awl hole. Sometimes just having it near the exit is enough so you can keep good control.

Also simple cork block (from the ski shop for $0.10) works fine for me.

And of course a beeswax as ChuckBurrows suggested.

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Thanks for the tips. I noticed after last night that dabbing a bit of beeswax every 3 or 4 holes helped the awl slide through a bit easier for me. Im going to pick up an extra beeswax block or chalkboard eraser to catch the awl on the other side. I have been just using pressure with my fingers per the hand sewing guide book and it gets a bit scary while stabbing the corner holes since I cant get a good grip. Id feel a lot safer not doing it that way.

Edited by jk215

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This is what I'm using, a piece of softwood with a deep hole drilled into the end grain.

post-19342-086637400 1326811745_thumb.jp

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I use a 1/2" dowel with a hole drilled into it. But I generally only use it for tight places where my fingers can't support the leather. Never occurred to me to use it on normal sewing to protect my fingers. Though I must admit I like the wax idea and will probably start using that. I would assume it takes care of waxing the awl at the same time.

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