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highnoonhunter

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About highnoonhunter

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  • Birthday 02/04/1964

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  • Website URL
    http://www.highnoonhunterleatherworks.webs.com
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Upper Mill Branch Holler- Grundy, Virginia
  • Interests
    Archery, leatherworking, Building and playing Appalachian Dulcimers, hunting, fishing, camping, outdoors

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Archery Leatherwork
  • Interested in learning about
    All Leatherwork
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  1. Two more natural dyes I have used are Goldenseal (locally known as yellow root) and Red Puccoon root (locally known as blood root). Noted: I have yet to use these on leather, but I have used them on cloth, feathers, and wood. I simply bring the roots to a gentle boil for about 10 minutes, and then let them set until cool. I store them in a mason jar. The Goldenseal makes for a rich to bright yellow, and the Red Puccoon can be blood red to orange (depending on the color of the item you are dying). And you can mix them to get colors in between. The coverage is good if you don't over water. I usually just cover the roots with water. I experimented with soaking them in rubbing alchohol once, and it worked, but the colors weren't as dark. Also, the will mold in the jar over time. My main use was in dying wood arrows. So I wasn't as concerned with the mold as I would be with using it for leather products. So I simply scraped the mold off the top, and used it. I dipped the arrows in a PVC tube.
  2. Thanks everyone. The Singer 95 that's available locally is a 95-80 which has the gear drive instead of belt drive. But still, I don't think it's what I need since it won't sew with 138 thread.
  3. Sorry about that Wiz.......... forgive me, I did think you were downing me. I'd love to have a nice machine. My reason for looking at the old singers is out of necessity, rather then just wanting to get kicks from restoring an old machine that is junk, and making it work. For the last few years now, my wife has been ill, and her medications prices put our bills more then we make. So I try to use my leather hobby to make up the difference and it's hard for me to save enough money to buy something better. The Singer 15-88 has helped with a few things at saving me time from hand stitching everything. But if I could run a machine with 138 thread, it and the 15-88 with 69 or 92 thread would cover about 75% of my stitching for me. Maybe some day I could get a machine to run the really large threads and I'd have nearly all the hand stitching covered.
  4. Uhhh......... Well no, I'm not actually looking for junk. But considering I bought a rusted up singer 15 88 and converted it to a hand crank and it sews my wallet innards just fine, and 2 oz overlays on 5 oz oil tanned just fine, I might consider buying junk!! Thanks David! I'll keep a look out for one.
  5. Thanks Wiz! I was thinking it probably wouldn't, but was unsure. They only want $100 for the machine, table, motor, etc., sewing and ready to go, so I thought it was worth a shot, but Oh well..................... Are there any of the older Singer industrial class machines that will handle 138? One pops up for sale here every so often.
  6. Hey everyone, Will a Singer Class 95 handle 138 thread? There's one here for sale locally and I thought I'd snatch it up if it would. My old class 15-88 runs 92 thread great, but I need something to use 138 on some items.
  7. Been working on making myself a maul today. It weighs in at just over 18 ounces. Should be right at 18 once I shape the stacked leather handle. PERFECT!

    1. Neillo

      Neillo

      What did you end up using for the maul head? PE seems to be pretty popular these days!

    2. highnoonhunter

      highnoonhunter

      Neillo, I used black Delrin for the head.

  8. I've been using clear packing tape on both sides of my patterns I want to transfer and it seems to do really well. It wouldn't last for lots of use, but i can always print off another one and cover it with tape it one wears out. But most of mine lately has been "one-off" stuff anyway, so the packing tape does the job.
  9. Thanks for sharing! NICE WALLET! I made something similar over the weekend.
  10. Time to clean the shop up for some new projects..... what a mess!

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Sylvia

      Sylvia

      My hubby got a shop smith so now "my" shop is even more crowded. lol

    3. highnoonhunter

      highnoonhunter

      I also build folk instruments, so I know where you're both coming from. That's part of the stuff I'm moving out so my room can be a dedicated leather shop, and not have to work around the other tools.

    4. Neillo

      Neillo

      I think I'll build a second bench for leather, my bench has a 2' long end vise that's great for burnishing belts, but I lose all kinds of stuff through the dog holes!

  11. That's an EXCELLENT idea! I find that sometimes my handle is in the wrong position for pressing. I recently purchased a 1 ton arbor press myself. The only modifications I have done it to remove the rotating plate and replace it with a 4"X6"X 3/16" thick steel plate which gave me more room under the ram. But I use regular handle tools such as the stamps with attached handles, splash rivet tools, eyelet setters and such. With the 2-D and 3-D stamps, I don't use a handle at all. I simply lay the stamp where I want it, and press it with the ram without using a handle. For my current tools, I don't have a need for having the ram drilled. I prefer to have it flat.
  12. I love this design, and I think it would work fine. There's a lot of leverage there in my opinion to have plenty holding power. I want the plans!!!! PLEASE! Where do I send the money?????????
  13. I'm wanting to make some coaster sets for my family. I've done some searches here, but can find no definite answers to my questions. So I was hoping someone could help me. I want to tool them, but what thickness should I use? Also, will the tooling leather need a backing leather? Like suede? Or could I buy adhesive backed sheet cork? What type finish should I use to make them more waterproof? Thanks in advance! Bobby
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