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SooperJake

Two Birds With One Stone.

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I had yet to try making a snap-style pancake or a closed toe holster ( which some of you disdain) so I combined them in this LC9/CT holster. W&C Chestnut scrap ( belly area), Angelus dye on the edges and I haven't put any finish on it yet.

I tried something new for establishing the stitchline. I took two pieces of scrap rectangles, and glued them at 3 edges. The top edge of this had my pattern profile cut in it ( along the reinforcement area).

Molded the gun, then stitched around the perimeter with no thread in the machine. Then tore the results apart and flattened out the scrap. Lots of work but was more out of curiousity of how to stitch around something pre-molded, as I know some of you do.

I'm pleased overall but I have a long way to go. Retension is good but I'm not satisfied with the boning details. More practice needed. I didn't use the vacuum this time. I think I'll leave off the decorative lines on the loops , next time, and maybe round the wings more.

Comments?

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post-32287-0-13297600-1359729453_thumb.j

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I think it looks fine Jake, and while i dont disdain closed toe holsters, because in reality, the customer gets what he or she wants, i dont really understand the concept them. I am also having a hard time with the snap on holsters...i just cant wrap my mind around the purpose of a snap on OWB....but then again, im getting to that point in life where i can claim that im too old to change my ways...not quite grumpy yet, but leaning that way...the consruction of the holster is great though, and i think the boning is fine...very subtle and not overdone..

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The biggest advantage is the easy removel of the holster. If you are carring but have to enter a gun free zone such as hospital, court building etc. it is a little easier to unsnap and remove the holster and then resnap when you are ready to put it back on, then to undo and un thread the belt re thread the belt in your pants rebuckle and then repeat the process when you go to put the weapon back on.

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To much gun exposed in my opinion, remember I am a beginner in holsters.....but I think a small light weight gun as the LCP is accidently coming out of this holster in no time....it needs to have more holster on the slide side to be safe.....Love your finish and the style, also like it to be an open bottom holster.....no debris in barrel and no moister to collect....love your stitching!!

Snap on rigs are not safe in my opinion....but easy to take on and off....again, as said....customer is king, what ever they like...

Remember me just getting started, so take it with a grain of salt....

James

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To much gun exposed in my opinion, remember I am a beginner in holsters.....but I think a small light weight gun as the LCP is accidently coming out of this holster in no time....it needs to have more holster on the slide side to be safe.....Love your finish and the style, also like it to be an open bottom holster.....no debris in barrel and no moister to collect....love your stitching!!

Snap on rigs are not safe in my opinion....but easy to take on and off....again, as said....customer is king, what ever they like...

Remember me just getting started, so take it with a grain of salt....

James

nah, plenty of leather in the trigger guard to stop it from comming out, i bet you can even hear it click in when he seats it...

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FWIW, when I do "snap strap" style pancake holsters, I make the straps part of the holster itself, as opposed to making them an add on piece. I tried it once how you did it and I didnt like how the straps would rotate around on the single attachment point. It uses a bigger chunk of hide but I feel it is worth the gain in stability. YMMV

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I'm with Shooter on one piece. I've made 2 of them. First had add on straps. Total disaster. Second had integrated straps, it's on my side right now. BTW, ignore the stitch lines.

IMG_0625.jpg

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nah, plenty of leather in the trigger guard to stop it from comming out, i bet you can even hear it click in when he seats it...

It does indeed 'click' when inserted.

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FWIW, when I do "snap strap" style pancake holsters, I make the straps part of the holster itself, as opposed to making them an add on piece. I tried it once how you did it and I didnt like how the straps would rotate around on the single attachment point. It uses a bigger chunk of hide but I feel it is worth the gain in stability. YMMV

I'm with Shooter on one piece. I've made 2 of them. First had add on straps. Total disaster. Second had integrated straps, it's on my side right now. BTW, ignore the stitch lines.

IMG_0625.jpg

Regarding the snap straps: The idea of the removeable ones was to allow the same holster to fit on different width belts,and to be replaceable if they stretched. Would a second screw on each strap/loop cure the rotation issue? I see that more and more on belt loop holsters( Brigade and others) , using a second mounting screw with a star lock washer.

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2 fasteners through the strap does cure the rotation of them. It's a Del Fatti design element and makes total sense. Brigade's are not both through the holster, but are simply offset.

I'm also in the group that integrated straps are the way to go. While it certainly can jack up pattern cutting, it definitely adds to the design and is worth it.

The rear of your holster suffers from the original pitfalls of the Patriot by Nelson: wings perfectly straight and attachment points too far away from the pouch. Bring it in and integrate the straps and you'll see a much more stable platform.

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Two things come to mind.

Do folks really wear different sized belts much? I know I don't. I've gone to 1.5" and stayed there.

I don't think stretch is going to be a significant issue. Particularly with smaller guns.

And I'm sure a second attachment point would help.

Just a couple of thoughts that are worth exactly what you paid for them. lol And BTW, I forgot to say that it looks well done. I'm becoming a big fan of the contrast stitching look.

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I'm one of the crowd that just doesn't see the utility of this design. I understand the purpose just not the utility. Yes, there are gun free zones but I don't know of any holster free zones and it is a lot easier sitting in the front seat of your car to just simply reholster a weapon than to try to restrap on your holster and weapon.

That said the workmanship looks pretty good. I think it would look much better if you left off the "reinforcement" piece which really serves no useful purpose. YMMV

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2 fasteners through the strap does cure the rotation of them. It's a Del Fatti design element and makes total sense. Brigade's are not both through the holster, but are simply offset.

I'm also in the group that integrated straps are the way to go. While it certainly can jack up pattern cutting, it definitely adds to the design and is worth it.

The rear of your holster suffers from the original pitfalls of the Patriot by Nelson: wings perfectly straight and attachment points too far away from the pouch. Bring it in and integrate the straps and you'll see a much more stable platform.

Interesting observation. the wing design/ spacing I mimicked from an Aker holster I have, because I wasn't sure exactly where to place the loops. I have found this distance, for my belt anyway, lays a little flatter than a closer spacing. I think my belt is too thick though.

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Interesting observation. the wing design/ spacing I mimicked from an Aker holster I have, because I wasn't sure exactly where to place the loops. I have found this distance, for my belt anyway, lays a little flatter than a closer spacing. I think my belt is too thick though.

I like my holsters to have a natural curve built into them. The front panel is always larger than the rear. This way, you don't rely on extra width - you can build gear that has very tightly close-spaced loops/slots and that rides nice and tight without collapsing the pocket.

Cheers!

:cheers:

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