Appropriate Sewing Machine For Watch Straps

[Danomite]

Hi Everyone,

I'm just getting into this, and obviously the choices for sewing machines are a little overwhelming. I've tried using my Mother's sewing machine at one point but it struggled, so I figured I would need to step up and get something a little more powerful. I've read many of the threads on here about different sewing machines. It seemed like most of the questions are geared towards which machines are best for going bigger, but not many mention machines that are better for the smaller projects. It would seem to my relatively uneducated view, that a machine that can sew 3/4" of leather might not sew 1/8" leather as well. The consew 206rb5 is mentioned a lot as a good machine, as is the Cobra brand.

Could anyone give me some insight on what I should be looking for? Is the consew 206rb5 a good choice for smaller projects? What about the Cobra series, or any others?

Thanks in advance,

Dan

[Wizcrafts]

I use either my walking foot machine, or my Singer 31-15 to sew watch bands. Both have optional presser feet that have edge guides on the right side. I choose the edge guide that places the stitch line very close to the edge and sew around the bands.

Normally, I use #69 bonded thread, through a #16 leather point needle, for such thin work close to edges.

A Consew 206RB-5 is a very good walking foot machine, suitable for your work.

Edited August 12, 2013 by Wizcrafts

[Techsew Ron]

The consew 206rb5 or any other flatbed walking foot machine would be suitable. Other options include: Techsew 106, Cobra class 18, Pfaff 1245, Adler 267 etc..

[pcox]

I use either a 31-15 or my 16-88 depending witch one is set up for small stuff at the time. The 31-15 lets me get a little closer to the buckles etc.

[Danomite]

Thanks for the replies. So far I've been looking at the singer 31-15s, and the Consew rb206-5. I thought the singer would be a little more in my price range, as I've read on here most people are paying less than 200 for theirs. Maybe the market has changed though? The reason that has a question mark is because on Ebay they seem to be ranging 400-700 dollars. I did find a Consew locally, but the owner doesnt know if it is an rb5 or not. He's asking 800 OBO. Can anyone help identify this machine, and weigh in on whether this would be a good deal if I picked it up locally (didn't have to pay for shipping).

I have (hopefully) attached some pictures of of the machine.

Thanks again everyone,

Dan

[Wizcrafts]

Hi Mr wizcrafts,

what foot would you use if stitching a padded watch strap eg the padded centre is 4 - 5mm while the outer edge (that will be stitched) is approx 2.5 mm . I was thinking a piping foot maybe.?

Depends on what type of feed your machine has. Is yours a straight stitch or walking foot machine?

[Art]

Hi Dan,

As said before, a Singer 31-15 is a good bet. If you can get one from a dealer who can service it, so much the better. There is also the Singer 110 which comes in a variety of flavors and gear-sets, but can be a pretty good machine for your purpose. I usually don't recommend a used machine for a beginner. For your first machine, buy something new that will last forever from a dealer, one who knows leatherworking machines. Make sure it has a servo and hopefully a speed reducer so you can use both hands on the work, not one riding the balance wheel.

Good new Consew 206RB-5

Cobra Class 18 Only the Highlead version

Juki DDL-5550 various flavors of this animal, kind of a newer version of the Singer 31-15.....or not.

Cobra 5550 BB Big Bobbin version of the 5550, good machine if made by Highlead.

Techsew 0302 Make sure it has a Servo and speed reducer

And last but not least

Cowboy 227R This is a clone with add-ons of the Singer 153w101.2.3 which is an upgrade of the flat bed 111, a workhorse of a machine. Up to 3/8, no problems and occasionally 1/2 (if you start doing 1/2", you really need a bigger machine. The 227 allows you to sew things that would give you trouble on a flat bed.

Art

[Wizcrafts]

Oh yes of course.

Its a straight stitch machine.

You can buy compensator feet where the left or right toe is spring loaded vertically. This allows the foot to ride over two different height layers as it secures the work. They come in a variety of widths to the center slot (not always just a hole). Some even come with a steel leaf spring edge guide. Look into buying a couple different compensator feet of different spacings and edge guide springs. For watch bands, I recommend starting with 1/16", 3/32" and 1/8" from the guide on the right to the center of the needle slot/hole.

Piping feet probably won't work because the are meant to sew inside a round on the left of a strap and you want to sew along the outer edge of a raised but not round shape.

Edited July 8, 2015 by Wizcrafts

[Art]

http://www.cutexsewingsupplies.com/industrial-sewing-right-compensating-presser-foot-for-knit-thin-materials

This particular one fits the Juki 5550. It costs $6.50 so why cut down a piping foot.

Art

[Wizcrafts]

These Google search results should help you choose a compensating presser foot.

Most of the industrial sewing machine dealers who advertise here also sell these presser feet, along with all other sewing accessories. Please try to support our dealers.

Edited July 8, 2015 by Wizcrafts

[Wizcrafts]

4 hours ago, Sticks said:

Hi there,

 what is the feed system on the 31-15 ? How does it feed without marking the leather?

I actually need a machine to ONLY make the holes so I can then handstitch.

 

The 31-15 is a drop feed machine, via feed dogs on the bottom. The presser foot is static. The feed dogs will mark the bottom layer, with the depth of marking dependent on how much force is needed to hold the leather down during the upstrokes. But...

I doubt that a 31-15 will be able to hold a needle large enough to punch holes for hand sewing thread. It is a tailoring machine that normally uses small needles, up to #22. It would take a #25 or #26 needle to make a large enough hole to pass typical hand sewing thread (no wider than #277 machine thread). This would require a throat plate with a greatly enlarged needle hole and the removal of the bobbin case (and possibly shuttle driver), which would be impacted by the oversize needle.

I sometimes use my Cowboy CB4500 with a #26 or #27 needle to punch hand sewing or tiny rivet holes. You are going to have to set your sights a lot higher than a Singer 31 class to punch such large holes

[dikman]

I've hand stitched by pre-punching the holes using a #21 needle to give me even spacing and then used an awl to widen the holes for stitching. I'm assuming this is what Sticks intends to do?

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, dikman said:

I've hand stitched by pre-punching the holes using a #21 needle to give me even spacing and then used an awl to widen the holes for stitching. I'm assuming this is what Sticks intends to do?

If that is indeed the case, the 31-15 will accept a #22 needle that can lay down evenly spaced holes that can be enlarged with a hand awl. But, the throat plate a large hole plate. The fine plate won't pass a #22 needle. The standard plate "may" clear it, if the needle doesn't get deflected at all by the strap. The large hole plate has enough clearance to deal with needle position inconsistencies.

FWIIW: The large hole throat plate is usually sold with a matching larger feed dog as the "heavy duty set.". This may be too aggressive on the bottom layer, so I would try to keep the existing (fine/standard) feed dog in place, unless it won't physically fit into the throat plate's slots.

An even better solution would be to obtain a straight stitch machine that is already setup with a roller foot and large hole throat plate.

[Wizcrafts]

15 minutes ago, Sticks said:

Thnx for the replies guys.

Actually the holes I need really need to be small as I mainly use 832 and 40s thread .

Wiz,can you comment on the singer 138w101 post machine.? What feed system does this use.?

Is this any good to a watch strap maker.?

You'll have to ask a dealer about that one as I have no experience with that model. The only info I see relates to double needle machines, with a 3/8" gauge between the needles.

I can tell you from my experience in the distant past that Singer post machines used light weight thread and small needles.