Sequence Of Steps To Make A Lined Belt?

[jamesn]

In what order do you tackle the steps in making a lined belt.

The below is not in any order.

• Stamp pattern on belt
• Dye belt
• Glue lining to top
• Stitch lining to top
• Cut to length
• Punch prong holes
• finish edges
• apply finish to belt
• anything else I could not think of.

Thanks for your input.

Jim

[JLSleather]

In what order do you tackle the steps in making a lined belt.

The below is not in any order.

• Cut to length
• Stamp pattern on belt
• Dye belt
• apply finish to belt
• Glue lining to top
• Stitch lining to top
• Punch prong holes
• finish edges
• anything else I could not think of.

Thanks for your input.

Jim

[camano ridge]

I would recomend cutting your belt to length as the first step and shaping the tounge end if you are making from a blank strap. You will then be able to lay out a boarder and or stitching groove lines and tool with in the border or stitch lines. If you tool and stitch first you wil be cutting off some of your stitching and tooling as well as lining material it will be a wate of some of your work and materials.

I measure and cut my belt strap to size, then lay out my tooling and stitch lines, dye when tooling is finished, glue liner material and stitch, then bevel and burnish edges punch holes attach hardware.

[Chief31794]

I would recomend cutting your belt to length as the first step and shaping the tounge end if you are making from a blank strap. You will then be able to lay out a boarder and or stitching groove lines and tool with in the border or stitch lines. If you tool and stitch first you wil be cutting off some of your stitching and tooling as well as lining material it will be a wate of some of your work and materials.

I measure and cut my belt strap to size, then lay out my tooling and stitch lines, dye when tooling is finished, glue liner material and stitch, then bevel and burnish edges punch holes attach hardware.

Agree, the only thing I would add is I mark the buckle end and the tongue end the cut to length, then I skive the buckle end on a small splitter so that I'm not pulling it through the splitter after the dye job. Regardless of whether you skive it by hand or machine, it needs to be done.

Chief

[NVLeatherWorx]

I actually don't cut my belt length as the first step due to the fact that you will gain an extra inch (minimum) from the stamping/tooling which will ultimately cause you to have a longer strap than you need when it comes time to finish it off. I shape the belt tip, layout my edge/stitching track (when applicable), stamp/carve & tool, specialty detail work (full color, resist, filigree, etc.), main color, oil/condition, top sealer, cut to length and install hardware and tongue holes, stitching/lacing (Bucklace), and then edge finishing. When I do the stamping/tooling I always start from the tip end and then work my towards the length at which the billet fold should be for the length required, sometimes even all the way to the end of the full strap (which is on average about 72" in length +/-). Once everything else has been done I will chop the strap where it should be, skive the billet end, layout the buckle tongue and screw holes and finish her up. If I have tooled to the end of the strap I will use the remainder as a sample for display whenever I am teaching a group or at a local fair/show (make it easier than having to carry a portfolio around).

[snubbyfan]

I make double layer gun belts. It's not really just lined but two full thickness belts glued and stitched together back to back.

After cutting the straps, I lay one aside then cut, slot, punch and skive the buckle end and cut it to finished length.

Then I'll make the belt keeper.

I'll lay out where the inner layer'll end on the buckle end then I'll predye the seam.

The end of the inner layer gets skived, beveled, predyed and burnished where it meets the outer layer. This gives it a smoother transition where it attaches to the outer layer.

Then the two straps get glued together back to back.

I'll lay out the stitch lines and do any tooling after the glue dries. Tooling after the two straps are glued together prevents the top strap from distorting.

After the tooling's done I'll poke the stitch holes by marking them with a pricking iron then making the holes with a stitching awl. Also I'll make the adjustment holes with an oval punch and cut the inner layer to match the outer layer.

Then it's time to bevel the edges and dye the belt. Burnish the edges and buff the belt but don't finish coat yet.

Sit back, relax and get ready to spend 6 hours or so hand stitching.

After the stitchin's done, then it's time to do the finishing work.

Edited January 1, 2015 by snubbyfan

[jamesn]

Thanks for everyones great input, it's just what I was looking for.

After I dye a belt with fiebings dyes they get very dry and stiff. It was mentioned to oil/condition before applying finish.

What type of oil or conditioner is used and how much is applied?

Thanks Again

Jim

[camano ridge]

I use 100% Pure Neatsfoot oil (not the compound), in most cases I just use a fingertip application covering both sides of the belt (if you have a suede liner do not put on the suede). I usually give it over night to let the oil migrate through the leather.

[Chief31794]

I use 100% Pure Neatsfoot oil (not the compound), in most cases I just use a fingertip application covering both sides of the belt (if you have a suede liner do not put on the suede). I usually give it over night to let the oil migrate through the leather.

X2

Chief

[snubbyfan]

I'm with the Neatsfoot guys, a little dab'll do ya.

[Dwight]

I don't do a lot of stamping on my gun belts I make, . . . most folks want em plain and simple (don't make me mad either).

BUT, . . . when I do have to do one, . . . everything else is done but the staining and finishing. It's glued, screwed, buckled, punched, sewed, . . .

Reason is simple: that is the part I'm confident in, . . . the stamping is the part I cannot afford to screw up with one of the other processes.

If it has to be stamped, . . . I do it then, . . . because it forces me to take my time, . . . be careful, . . . not "mess up a good thing".

But, . . . that's just me and my way, . . .

May God bless,

Dwight

[splinters]

Jameson, I was going to start a thread asking the same type of questions but on finding yours I decided not to. I would like to ask one more question though and hope you don't mind.

Do you soak the buckle end of the belt placing something similar in size to the buckle axle between the fold of the damp belt and leaving to dry to avoid cracking the leather?

Thanks.

P.S. One more question.... do you case the leather before cutting the stitching groove?

Edited June 8, 2015 by splinters