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douglais

New Helmet

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Here's a picture of my most recent helmet. The customer wanted the blue, and I'm really pleased with how it came out. My customers are often responsible for making me forge into new territory. Doug

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That really looks good Doug.

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Thanks, King's X. It's no Archangel helmet, for sure. But I make them to sell between $150 and $300, depending on how many features a customer selects.

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That's okay......Yours would be a challenge even for me! keep up the good work!

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That's a really nice lid! I love the blue scales. I would love a picture of the inside of the helmet, wink, wink. I love to see how these things work. The coloring is just amazing. When I use blue it turns a sort of gasoline-rainbow purple color. I'm going to have to change dye makers and see if it stops.

Everything comes together really nicely in this helmet. I love the chainmail. It's a good mix of fantasy meets medieval.

Mark Charke

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Thanks Mark. Here's a pic of the inside.

Also, the blue dye is a process I've worked out over time, using just Fiebings dye. First I use Leather Balm on the cuir buoillied (hot water hardened) leather to restore the leather. I wait a couple hours then apply some Atom Wax, which is a water base wax. When that's dry I apply the dye, and the atom wax sorta liquifies and mixes with the dye, but it also keeps it from penetrating the leather and getting dark. So, when that dries I have the dye/wax sitting on top of the leather mostly. It could be sanded off if you really tried. Then I seal it all with maybe 3 coats of Resolene mixed 50/50 with water. So, that gives me a durable, bright color. The drawback is that it can fade in the sun faster than a regular style dye job because it hasn't got much depth.

I sometimes dilute the dye with alcohol, so I can really lay it on heavy, trying to get more penetration when it mixes with the Atom Wax.

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Here's a picture of my most recent helmet. The customer wanted the blue, and I'm really pleased with how it came out. My customers are often responsible for making me forge into new territory. Doug

Really nice work! The layout and preparation is super professional.

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I buy rawhide horsetails from Chichester. They have a huge catalog of animal parts from all over the world. I soak the tails until soft, then trim the rawhide into pieces which will make the best plumes. Then I roll the rawhide into a cone shape and let it dry, and I mount these onto the leather finial. It's difficult to get the rawhide dried into the right shape, because the it's very stubborn material.

Where did you find the horsehair tail?

Did you use a pattern?

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Thanks for the picture! That answered a lot of questions! That is some very thick leather you are using. That must be 16oz.

Do you pad the helmet in anyway or is that what the arming cap is for?

Mark Charke

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Thanks for the picture! That answered a lot of questions! That is some very thick leather you are using. That must be 16oz.

Do you pad the helmet in anyway or is that what the arming cap is for?

Mark Charke

Padding is not needed because the helmet has webbing that will fit your head (although, every little bit helps). It works just like a construction worker's hard hat. The shape of the helmet will deflect a blow to one side or the other and the webbing allows the armored part of the helmet to absorb the remaining impact. If you are going to make a comfortable lining for a helmet that will never see combat, you can use wool or padded linen.

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This is the webbing from a replica Norman helmet.

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This is the webbing for a WWII German helmet.

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