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rdragons

Mushroomed Straight Chisel

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First attempt at making lacing holes with a straight chisel. Both Chisels are mushroomed from having to hit so hard to get them through the leather. I had shiny chips of chisel plating coming off all around my work.

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The Tandy video makes it look easy.

http://www.tandyleat...tch-Lacing.aspx

I used a piece of hardwood with a scrap of belt leather as a buffer to protect the tool blade after its through the piece I am working on.

But it took such an extreme amount of force that the tools are mushrooming.

Obviously something is resisting the tools progress.

They are new tools and should be sharp.

After, I thought about wetting the leather to make it softer, but haven't found anything on the internet that says to do that.

What is wrong that my chisels are mushrooming.

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Edited by rdragons

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What kind of hammer are you using? It's best if you use a polly mallet or raw hide. You should probly sharpen the chisels to. Hope this helps

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What is wrong that my chisels are mushrooming.

Did you use a metal hammer?

If so, this is why.

NO leathertools are made to be struck with a metal hammer. None. :Lighten:

russ

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Those punches need to be sharpened, polished, and stropped. Start with 400 grit wet/drysand paper, then 600, then you can strop it. Hidecrafters has a George Hurst video explaining it much better than I can, but I hope you get the idea. And like Russ said, metal hammers are taboo!

Edited by Timd

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When you're done with the sharp end you need to dress the top too. Put a nice bevel around the top. Those mushroomends can break off and put an eye out.

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I USE AN END GRAIN PC OF WOOD, AFTER THE PUNCHES HAVE BEEN RE-SHARPENED, THEN I POLISH THEM ON A BUFFING WHEEL. ALSO I HAVE A BLOCK OF PARAFIN CLOSE BY TO PUSH THE PRONGS IN EVER SO OFTEN. TRY IT...........I USE A RAWHIDE MAUL.....MO METAL TO HAMMER WITH. :head_hurts_kr:

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QUESTION - What are the dark lines on your leather? It looks like you drew the pattern on the leather with a pencil. Generally speaking, most everybody uses a stylus or pen to trace the pattern onto the leather which results only in an impression of the lines into the leather. They do not mark directly on the leather with a pen or pencil. I suspect those marks are going to be hard to remove.

As thin as that leather looks, your lacing punches should be sharp enough to push them through with your hand - At least, a single layer.

As far as a mallet to hit them with - a deadblow plastic hammer that is filled with metal shot is an economical alternative. You can find them in generally any tool store, or at walmart.

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For what it's worth that mushrooming looks very pronounced and the same degree on both chisels.  I am also looking at what appears to be flattening on the chisel points which leads me to believe you might not have been using a poundo board or something similar. In over 30 years I have never had a tool mushroom like that and would agree that the only thing I can think of that would do it is a metal hammer. I too ask the question why are you using a lead pencil directly on the leather? Another tip I can come up with is to push your chisel points into beeswax. The thin layer will make the chiseling go much quicker and cleaner. I have also felt that next to a swivel knife your mallet is your next most and important tool. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. :banana:

Storm

PS: The only person I ever heard of that used a metal hammer was "Billy 2 shews". Granted it mushroomed his tools but he's one of the finest around. Check out his gallery here on the site:

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=465

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Thanks to all who responded.

westtxcowboy1979

whinewine

Timd

somewhereinusa

Luke Hatley

After serious consideration from everyone's input I have decided I need the 16 oz polymer mallet. I visited both WalMart and Sears today and had no luck in locating a polymer. Did find a dead blow hammer at Sears, but I have enough leather experience to realize it is like Storm says, next to the swivel knife the mallet is the most important tool there is. So will stop by Tandy tomorrow after work and get the polymer.

Also will be sharpening the chisels and grinding the mushroom off. Even though I don't know why they weren't sharp brand new right out of the bag. I also think I will try punching the holes while the leather is cased instead of letting it dry out.

wyoming slick

Storm

The dark lines are from carbon paper used to trace the pattern. I have used carbon paper to transfer patterns since I started dabbling in leather. Earlier work was mostly painted. Then my wife bought me the basic set of six tools and I did the Victoria Clutch Purse. If you look hard enough you can see hints of the lines only because I used a flash to take the picture. What color remains ends up in the knife cuts and adds an outlining shading effect which I like. For the most part the lines are not noticeable after applying neatsfoot oil.

As to the current project I finished lacing this morning and applied the first coat of neatsfoot this evening. If the carbon paper lines still work for me I will post a picture.

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Looks good from where I'm sittin'

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get yourself a cutting board at walmart they are like some of the poly boards. the white cutting boards. hope that helps some.

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I hit my rivet setters with an 8oz ball peen hammer, and I'm fully aware that it ruins them, but I really like the positive heavy hit when setting rivets. A new rivet setter's like three bucks, if I have to replace it every year I'm fine with that. Nothing else though.

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Thanks Timd. The lines work for me. And I am not really partial to tracing with a stylus, seems kind of messy, wet paper, yuck. Just the same, anyone with ideas on how to make lighter lines, give an input.

Thanks broncobuster. Its a good idea and I will check it out.

The mallet saga continues. Tandy had two of the big polymers. The handles wiggled in both the heads, neither seems to weight the 16 oz as catalog advertised, and of course I walked in the day after the sale was over. Concluded the quality wasn't there even at the sale price and left them on the shelf. I have some 100 year old oak flooring scraps in the shop and am contemplating making my own mallet.

In the meantime the little wood mallet I have does tooling just fine and I have a belt blank here just screaming for a design. It doesn't need lacing holes. I need a tooling design, not a geometric pattern, not cowboy. It will be vinageroon black, lines will not show. A man's dress belt.

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Instead of wet paper, try this:Tracing Film It's waterproof, and it'll last forever( so far) I bought 10 yards 5 years ago, and I haven't put a dent in it. Use the stylus and see the difference.

Edited by Timd

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I have a hard rubber dead blow hammer that I picked up at a hardware store. It is not plastic as you generally find. I think the hard plastic is too slick and doesn't give a good "bite" to the tool you're hitting.

The rubber seems to bite better and is hard enough that it is not showing signs of damage from the tools being hit.

It is pretty heavy too which means I don't have to hit as hard with it. Which is nice, unlike a rawhide mallet that you have to swing pretty firmly at times.

I use a poundo board as a backer and have no tool damage.

I too use the white plastic cutting boards from the kitchen area in Wal-mart. They are inexpensive and work well to cut/trim leather on.

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I'm not sure this is really realted, but I've had three tools bend on me as I'm using them. Right up front, I've had it happen using the poly as well as the rawhide mallets, and I am casing the leather. I've had a stopper, a cam, and a beveler all do it (all Tandy products). The store was great about swapping out the first one, but I've had the other two happen over t past week....not so sure they are going to be so happy about it this time. Not sure if it's something I'm doing or bad batch of tools. Any one else ever have something like this happen? ideas?

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Winter is almost over, but I managed to make an oak mallet.

I also bought a 27 oz dead blow hammer and a Walmart cutting board.

Found some of that Tracing Film in a kit I already owned, bought from Tandy. I didn't know what it was as the directions didn't mention it.

As for breaking Tandy tools. The set on the left came from Hobby Lobby. The set on the right came in a kit from

Tandy. The set from Hobby Lobby is much better quality and the working end is attached with twice as much metal. Notice the Tandy swivel knife got short changed too.

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First project since mushrooming. Punching holes with same 4 prong 1/8 inch straight lace punch. Had to use the 27 oz dead blow hammer. Worked great and did not mushroom the tool. Does it always take such a tremendous force to drive a lace punch through dry leather? Still doesn't seem right.

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